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Charlie Cat

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I am a laid off band director and former law enforcement officer. I make simple holsters and Saxophone neck straps. I have a chance to get a machine from a local seller. I am trading a trumpet and prob. adding some bucks to make the difference. If you were in my shoes what would work best for my work. I do everything by hand right now and it is killing me!. Thanks Charlie Cat Catalano New Orleans LA.

P.S. What is the thickest that either one will sew?

Thanks for any help in advance. post-23660-020589600 1312316891_thumb.jppost-23660-065646100 1312316898_thumb.jp

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P.S. What is the thickest that either one will sew?

Thanks for any help in advance. post-23660-020589600 1312316891_thumb.jppost-23660-065646100 1312316898_thumb.jp

The Singer 29 machines will only sew 1/4 inch maximum. The 31-15 can probably sew 5/16".

Note: there is a difference between how much material can be stuffed under the raised presser foot and how thick it can actually feed and stitch.

The 29 types have a foot that both pulls the work back and lifts off it to move forward for the next stitch. So, you can technically shove 5/16" of leather under the foot, but it won't feed it properly.

The 31-15 is a bottom feed machine. It feeds all the material under the foot. However, it uses garment series needles, which are a little on the short side of the industrial systems. The machines using those needles are made to sew garments that don't normally exceed 1/4 inch thickness. The needlebars have a shorter stroke than walking foot machines. I have read about people who raise the pressor foot on a 31-15, to get them to sew 3/8 inch. I don't know if they also changed the needle system and/or needlebar.

The 31-15, although made as a tailoring machine, is also used by many shoe repair shops for sewing flat upper leather. One guy I knew had a Fortuna Skiver, which he bought from me, a Singer 31-15 and a Singer 29k something, for making custom shoes and boots and repairs to same. This was in addition to the sole stitcher and other shoe repair machines. Of course, he only used #69 thread in the Singer machines.

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Thanks so much for your quick reply and expertise. I don't think either one will work for what I am trying to do. The gentleman has some other machines but I just can't make it financially right now. All of these machines are here in N.O. and I would hate to spend any money and not get close to what I need. I thank you for your help and if you need any musical inst. info I can do that, just not sewing machines. I will see what else he has that I might be able to afford. Thanks again, Charlie Cat

The Singer 29 machines will only sew 1/4 inch maximum. The 31-15 can probably sew 5/16".

Note: there is a difference between how much material can be stuffed under the raised presser foot and how thick it can actually feed and stitch.

The 29 types have a foot that both pulls the work back and lifts off it to move forward for the next stitch. So, you can technically shove 5/16" of leather under the foot, but it won't feed it properly.

The 31-15 is a bottom feed machine. It feeds all the material under the foot. However, it uses garment series needles, which are a little on the short side of the industrial systems. The machines using those needles are made to sew garments that don't normally exceed 1/4 inch thickness. The needlebars have a shorter stroke than walking foot machines. I have read about people who raise the pressor foot on a 31-15, to get them to sew 3/8 inch. I don't know if they also changed the needle system and/or needlebar.

The 31-15, although made as a tailoring machine, is also used by many shoe repair shops for sewing flat upper leather. One guy I knew had a Fortuna Skiver, which he bought from me, a Singer 31-15 and a Singer 29k something, for making custom shoes and boots and repairs to same. This was in addition to the sole stitcher and other shoe repair machines. Of course, he only used #69 thread in the Singer machines.

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Thanks so much for your quick reply and expertise. I don't think either one will work for what I am trying to do. Snip...

I will see what else he has that I might be able to afford. Thanks again, Charlie Cat

We have dealers who are members of this forum (Their ads appear on top of every page, and rotate with every page refresh). Why don't you contact each of them, reveal your budget, state your sewing requirements, and see if anybody can fit a used machine to your wallet?

Edited by Wizcrafts

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Thanks Mr. Wiz, but there is really not a budget. Every penny I earn goes toward the household. I taught music for 29 yrs and I am in my 2nd yr of looking for a teaching job and only get some part time work here and there. I don't make my leather goods fast enough to make any money on the goods that I make. That is the reason I am looking for a machine. The gentleman in N.O. is willing to trade some of my insts. for the machines that he is selling for a friend. Even with that I can't afford to put any cash in that direction. Anything insts. that I do end up selling the money will go to bills. I appreciate your advice but I wouldn't want to bother anyone with my little plan. I do thank you for giving me advice and the time that you took with me. I will just keep sewing by hand for now until things improve. Thanks again. Charlie Cat.

We have dealers who are members of this forum (Their ads appear on top of every page, and rotate with every page refresh). Why don't you contact each of them, reveal your budget, state your sewing requirements, and see if anybody can fit a used machine to your wallet?

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Okay Charlie Cat. Did you know that everyday is Caturday? Especially in N'orleans

Since you are going to have to trade for a machine and you only have two to chose from, let's whittle it down, shall we?

Your projects don't seem like they will require a lot of thickness, but could exceed 1/4 inch. That leaves out the patcher. So, by the process of deduction, you just bought a Singer 31-15. Finding it too fast to control, you'll buy a smaller motor pulley and shorter v-belt. You can purchase some different presser feet, in time. You may even convert it into a roller foot machine, someday. Being an experimenter and new note finder, you shall manage to make the machine sew consistently good stitches with #138 thread, top and bottom. Being inquisitive, you will find an alternate needle type that is a little longer, but still fits into the needlebar. You will learn to retime your machine for the longer needle. Then, you will realize that you can raise the presser foot a bit higher, until it just clears the descended needlebar. That will allow you to sew about 3/8 of an inch; maybe more.

Someday you will remember where you dreamed all this up and thank me. to the tune of Limehouse Blues

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I am a laid off band director and former law enforcement officer. I make simple holsters and Saxophone neck straps. I have a chance to get a machine from a local seller. I am trading a trumpet and prob. adding some bucks to make the difference. If you were in my shoes what would work best for my work. I do everything by hand right now and it is killing me!. Thanks Charlie Cat Catalano New Orleans LA.

The first thing that popped into my mind was 'what's the trumpet worth if you sold it'? If you're willing to part with it to get a sewing machine then that pretty much sets your budget. It's easy to underestimate how much machine consumables can cost too, so keep that in mind.

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I have to agree with Amuckart. I paid $75 for my truly great 31-15 (head only) added a servo from Sewmun, a used table and and... and now I have a complete perfect set-up machine with about $320 + -.

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The bottom line is that if you have to choose between two machines, which you will be trading for, the 31-15 is more customizable-alterable than any 29 type. Neither machine is built for heavy duty usage. Neither was made with heavy thread in mind. But, the patcher machines are not nearly as strong as they look. These machines are easily damaged and wear out quickly, if used to sew hard leather, with heavy thread.

Finally, the bobbins on the patchers are either tiny, or minute. What is sold as a large bobbin for the big bobbin models is about 2/3 the capacity of a "standard" industrial bobbin. That bobbin is the same as the one used in the ancient Singer 15- class home machines. So, you can sew farther with any size thread with a 31 type machine, than a 29 type.

The only reason for having a 29 patcher machine is to do patching of torn shoes and garments, to install zippers in bags, to fix cylindrical pouches, or to sew patches onto vest and jackets. They are perfect for sewing inside of round goods, up the arm and back.

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Hello to all, I appreciate all of your comments and thank all of you. I contacted the seller about the machines. He told me that one that was supposed to be sold by tues. is still there and has not heard from the buyer. I will put the model and pic. here. He also has another singer model 50 or something but I will check. I can sell my trumpet for 3 hundred and 350 bucks. I can make an even trade for the 31 15 but that would be for one that I would have to reinstall the motor and get a belt and figure how to mount it on the table. He has another one but I would have to come up with another hundred bucks. It is all intact and running etc. What do you all think about the one that might be avail later today? I would be happy to send all of you a couple of my bands recordings on you send it, for all of you that have givem me help. Thanks Charlie Cat, post-23660-002804700 1312399495_thumb.jppost-23660-018948600 1312399507_thumb.jppost-23660-061131000 1312399533_thumb.jp

The last one Silver is already sold and gone. Sorry

The bottom line is that if you have to choose between two machines, which you will be trading for, the 31-15 is more customizable-alterable than any 29 type. Neither machine is built for heavy duty usage. Neither was made with heavy thread in mind. But, the patcher machines are not nearly as strong as they look. These machines are easily damaged and wear out quickly, if used to sew hard leather, with heavy thread.

Finally, the bobbins on the patchers are either tiny, or minute. What is sold as a large bobbin for the big bobbin models is about 2/3 the capacity of a "standard" industrial bobbin. That bobbin is the same as the one used in the ancient Singer 15- class home machines. So, you can sew farther with any size thread with a 31 type machine, than a 29 type.

The only reason for having a 29 patcher machine is to do patching of torn shoes and garments, to install zippers in bags, to fix cylindrical pouches, or to sew patches onto vest and jackets. They are perfect for sewing inside of round goods, up the arm and back.

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Hi Charlie,

Hello to all, I appreciate all of your comments and thank all of you. I contacted the seller about the machines. He told me that one that was supposed to be sold by tues. is still there and has not heard from the buyer. I will put the model and pic. here. He also has another singer model 50 or something but I will check. I can sell my trumpet for 3 hundred and 350 bucks. I can make an even trade for the 31 15

If your trumpet is worth that much, I think you'd be getting the bad end of the deal trading it for a 31-15. They can be had for far far less than that.

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See if you can get close up photos of the remaining machines. The area of particular interest are the head, showing the presser foot/feet and throat cover plate and the right side, showing the model number. In lieu of photos, see if you can get and post the exact model numbers.

You need to be made aware of the fact that just because a sewing machine is industrial, it is not necessarily any good for sewing leather, such as is made by crafters. There are industrial sewing machines that are made to do only one particular task. Some are made to only apply an edge binding cloth. Some are high speed. low lift, small thread machines, used to produce garments. Some only sew a preset pattern, as in bar tackers and X tackers.

Here are some features that set leather sewing machines apart from garment or specialty machines:

Leather sewing machines usually have

  • walking feet; typically triple feed, where the feed dog, inner foot and needle all pull the material in sync.
  • Beefed up tensioners, to properly position the lockstitch knots, when sewing with #138 or larger bonded thread.
  • beefed up take-up lever, to withstand the highly increased strain caused by heavy thread being pulled into hard materials.
  • large or very large bobbins. Larger threads need bigger bobbins to do a reasonable amount of sewing, per load.
  • extra heavy top pressure springs (it takes a lot of pressure to hold down 2 or 3 layers of veg-tan belt leather as it is being stitched)
  • interchangeable presser feet and throat cover plates. Different feet are made to do various special tasks. Leather sewing machines frequently use a set with a single left toe outer foot.
  • threaded holes inline with the needle, to attach an edge guide (to keep your stitches along the edge in perfect alignment).
  • larger pulleys and hand wheels on the rear. With a large pulley and heavy hand wheel, the machine will run slower and smoother at slow speeds.
  • slow speed (1725 RPM) 1/2 HP clutch motor, with a 2" to 2.25" pulley, or a servo motor capable of sewing under 1 stitch per second, with lots of torque. There are servo motors, then there are servo motors. Not all are as good for slow speed, high torque sewing. You need one built to power a leather sewing machine.
  • some have an additional speed reducer between the motor and machine.
  • a v-belt of the proper length so the motor positioner is in the middle of its up/down range, with about 1/2 to 3/4 inch displacement, with light finger pressure, in the middle of the belt.
  • plenty of oil holes leading to critical moving parts. Only use sewing machine oil, not 3 in 1.
All industrial machines should have:
  • a solid wood table top mounted onto steel k-legs frame, with a floor speed pedal
  • an oil drip pan mounted in the machine cutout of the table (does not apply to cylinder arm machine tables)
  • a knee or foot lifter assembly for the presser feet.
  • a solid thread stand, for at least two 1 pound spools of industrial thread.
  • a bobbin winder on the table, unless one is built into the machine.
  • a long flex light, so you can see what you are sewing.
  • a sliding drawer to hold spare accessories, needles and bobbins

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Thanks for the input, and I just found out that he also has a Landis 12 K that was purchased reconditioned but never used as the owner passed away suddenly. Thanks, This is so complicated. Charlie Cat

If your trumpet is worth that much, I think you'd be getting the bad end of the deal trading it for a 31-15. They can be had for far far less than that.

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Mr. Wiz thanks for the details, I guess I am overwhelmed. I talked to the seller today and he is selling this eqpt. for his friends wife. His friend died suddenly. All of the machines were replaced since 07 till recent. All the others were destroyed in the 05 Great New Orleans Flood. I can take pics as the seller knows my situation and he knows that both he and I are novices at this. He needs a good trumpet for a friends child and I need a machine that works for what I need. I spoke to him today and he has a Landis 12 K that was never used by the cobbler. It was purchased reconditioned and never installed. That is the latest info. I can get pics of the parts that you mentioned. This unit is a monster. Thanks Charlie Cat

See if you can get close up photos of the remaining machines. The area of particular interest are the head, showing the presser foot/feet and throat cover plate and the right side, showing the model number. In lieu of photos, see if you can get and post the exact model numbers.

You need to be made aware of the fact that just because a sewing machine is industrial, it is not necessarily any good for sewing leather, such as is made by crafters. There are industrial sewing machines that are made to do only one particular task. Some are made to only apply an edge binding cloth. Some are high speed. low lift, small thread machines, used to produce garments. Some only sew a preset pattern, as in bar tackers and X tackers.

Here are some features that set leather sewing machines apart from garment or specialty machines:

Leather sewing machines usually have

  • walking feet; typically triple feed, where the feed dog, inner foot and needle all pull the material in sync.
  • Beefed up tensioners, to properly position the lockstitch knots, when sewing with #138 or larger bonded thread.
  • beefed up take-up lever, to withstand the highly increased strain caused by heavy thread being pulled into hard materials.
  • large or very large bobbins. Larger threads need bigger bobbins to do a reasonable amount of sewing, per load.
  • extra heavy top pressure springs (it takes a lot of pressure to hold down 2 or 3 layers of veg-tan belt leather as it is being stitched)
  • interchangeable presser feet and throat cover plates. Different feet are made to do various special tasks. Leather sewing machines frequently use a set with a single left toe outer foot.
  • threaded holes inline with the needle, to attach an edge guide (to keep your stitches along the edge in perfect alignment).
  • larger pulleys and hand wheels on the rear. With a large pulley and heavy hand wheel, the machine will run slower and smoother at slow speeds.
  • slow speed (1725 RPM) 1/2 HP clutch motor, with a 2" to 2.25" pulley, or a servo motor capable of sewing under 1 stitch per second, with lots of torque. There are servo motors, then there are servo motors. Not all are as good for slow speed, high torque sewing. You need one built to power a leather sewing machine.
  • some have an additional speed reducer between the motor and machine.
  • a v-belt of the proper length so the motor positioner is in the middle of its up/down range, with about 1/2 to 3/4 inch displacement, with light finger pressure, in the middle of the belt.
  • plenty of oil holes leading to critical moving parts. Only use sewing machine oil, not 3 in 1.
All industrial machines should have:
  • a solid wood table top mounted onto steel k-legs frame, with a floor speed pedal
  • an oil drip pan mounted in the machine cutout of the table (does not apply to cylinder arm machine tables)
  • a knee or foot lifter assembly for the presser feet.
  • a solid thread stand, for at least two 1 pound spools of industrial thread.
  • a bobbin winder on the table, unless one is built into the machine.
  • a long flex light, so you can see what you are sewing.
  • a sliding drawer to hold spare accessories, needles and bobbins

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Charlie Cat, my trumpeting friend from N'orleans, that Landis 12K is only good for sewing new soles onto shoes and boots. It is of no other use. The thread it uses is 6 or 7 cord right twist Barbour's Irish Linen Thread, run through a wax pot. This "thread" is thicker than the string used to bundle most meat packages or fly a kite. There is very little depth inside the curved needle area. It is designed to sew along the outside perimeter of shoes. It can also sew knife sheathes and holsters, certainly up to 1/2 inch thick. But, no reverse, and no turning the work around to backtack.

Another thing you should know: a Landis 12K weighs in at around 500 or 600 pounds, in 3 square feet and usually ships with a 3 phase 220 volt motor. Are you sure you want a machine like that for your first sewing machine?

This not so good news is played to the tune of Basin Street Blues

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Thanks Wiz, I looked it up and saw it was a giant boat. My wife would send me out to live in my eqpt. trailer to live.

Thanks very much for your time and advice. Too bad we live light years away. I can send you my version of Basin St Blues. via you send it. Can I send it here or will this site not take it. Or could I send it as an attach so everyone can hear it. I am planning to go over to the cobblers shop today or tomorrow and see what else is there. There is another garage with more machines. Thanks Thanks Thanks, and ps. I really am a clt. and Sax Player. Hence the willingness to sell the trumpet. I used it for my classes and demos and letting kids try out to see if they had what it takes to pay the inst. I will miss it but I could use a machine more. Thanks

Just curiious is the Landis hard to learn to use. It seems like a space ship control system. !@!#@#@%

Charlie Cat, my trumpeting friend from N'orleans, that Landis 12K is only good for sewing new soles onto shoes and boots. It is of no other use. The thread it uses is 6 or 7 cord right twist Barbour's Irish Linen Thread, run through a wax pot. This "thread" is thicker than the string used to bundle most meat packages or fly a kite. There is very little depth inside the curved needle area. It is designed to sew along the outside perimeter of shoes. It can also sew knife sheathes and holsters, certainly up to 1/2 inch thick. But, no reverse, and no turning the work around to backtack.

Another thing you should know: a Landis 12K weighs in at around 500 or 600 pounds, in 3 square feet and usually ships with a 3 phase 220 volt motor. Are you sure you want a machine like that for your first sewing machine?

This not so good news is played to the tune of Basin Street Blues

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Thanks Wiz, I looked it up and saw it was a giant boat. My wife would send me out to live in my eqpt. trailer to live.

Thanks very much for your time and advice. Too bad we live light years away. I can send you my version of Basin St Blues. via you send it. Can I send it here or will this site not take it. Or could I send it as an attach so everyone can hear it. I am planning to go over to the cobblers shop today or tomorrow and see what else is there. There is another garage with more machines. Thanks Thanks Thanks, and ps. I really am a clt. and Sax Player. Hence the willingness to sell the trumpet. I used it for my classes and demos and letting kids try out to see if they had what it takes to pay the inst. I will miss it but I could use a machine more. Thanks

Just curiious is the Landis hard to learn to use. It seems like a space ship control system. !@!#@#@%

If you have a Facebook profile you can upload your music there and make it playable in the Facebook Player. Other FB members could listen to your stuff. Or, if you have a website, you can upload your music in .mp3 or .wav format and provide a link to the file in your profile. There are other services that allow users to upload their recordings, like Reverbnation.com.

Sending music by email can be time consuming for the sender and recipient, depending on the filesize. If the complete tune is in mp3 format and weighs in at 1 or 2 MB, it won't take too long to up/download via email. That assumes you are using broadband ISP, as I am, and that they allow large attachments. Personally, I recommend you to create a personal website, promoting your talents, if you haven't done so already.

To answer the question about the Landis: it is not easy to learn to sew on such a machine unless you have had a lot of prior experience with various types of industrial sewing machines, or shoe repair equipment. If you do buy that machine (why would you?), you should find a close by shoe repair shop that has a similar model, to teach you how to use the machine. The sole stitchers are not like typical leather sewing machines. They are horses of a different color (usually green).

We have some members in Lusianne. Look them up and see if any are near you. Maybe one will have an extra machine they can let go of cheap, or in exchange for some horn or reed lessons.

To the tune of Tear Stained Letter, by Jo-El Sonnier

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If you have a Facebook profile you can upload your music there and make it playable in the Facebook Player. Other FB members could listen to your stuff. Or, if you have a website, you can upload your music in .mp3 or .wav format and provide a link to the file in your profile. There are other services that allow users to upload their recordings, like Reverbnation.com.

Sending music by email can be time consuming for the sender and recipient, depending on the filesize. If the complete tune is in mp3 format and weighs in at 1 or 2 MB, it won't take too long to up/download via email. That assumes you are using broadband ISP, as I am, and that they allow large attachments. Personally, I recommend you to create a personal website, promoting your talents, if you haven't done so already.

To answer the question about the Landis: it is not easy to learn to sew on such a machine unless you have had a lot of prior experience with various types of industrial sewing machines, or shoe repair equipment. If you do buy that machine (why would you?), you should find a close by shoe repair shop that has a similar model, to teach you how to use the machine. The sole stitchers are not like typical leather sewing machines. They are horses of a different color (usually green).

We have some members in Lusianne. Look them up and see if any are near you. Maybe one will have an extra machine they can let go of cheap, or in exchange for some horn or reed lessons.

To the tune of Tear Stained Letter, by Jo-El Sonnier

Thanks again for all your info and time and experience. Charlie, I got the Singer 111w155 and am hoping to get it wired correctly. I tried it by hand and it goes through the leather that I am sewing by hand with no problem. I took the motor apart and unfroze it and cleaned it. Checked it with ohm meter and all ok. Capacitor is ok, neighbor checked it for me. Still looking up wiring to switch. Will contact Singer to see if they can help. Thanks again. Charlie

If you have a Facebook profile you can upload your music there and make it playable in the Facebook Player. Other FB members could listen to your stuff. Or, if you have a website, you can upload your music in .mp3 or .wav format and provide a link to the file in your profile. There are other services that allow users to upload their recordings, like Reverbnation.com.

Sending music by email can be time consuming for the sender and recipient, depending on the filesize. If the complete tune is in mp3 format and weighs in at 1 or 2 MB, it won't take too long to up/download via email. That assumes you are using broadband ISP, as I am, and that they allow large attachments. Personally, I recommend you to create a personal website, promoting your talents, if you haven't done so already.

To answer the question about the Landis: it is not easy to learn to sew on such a machine unless you have had a lot of prior experience with various types of industrial sewing machines, or shoe repair equipment. If you do buy that machine (why would you?), you should find a close by shoe repair shop that has a similar model, to teach you how to use the machine. The sole stitchers are not like typical leather sewing machines. They are horses of a different color (usually green).

We have some members in Lusianne. Look them up and see if any are near you. Maybe one will have an extra machine they can let go of cheap, or in exchange for some horn or reed lessons.

To the tune of Tear Stained Letter, by Jo-El Sonnier

Thanks again for all your info and time and experience. Charlie, I got the Singer 111w155 and am hoping to get it wired correctly. I tried it by hand and it goes through the leather that I am sewing by hand with no problem. I took the motor apart and unfroze it and cleaned it. Checked it with ohm meter and all ok. Capacitor is ok, neighbor checked it for me. Still looking up wiring to switch. Will contact Singer to see if they can help. Thanks again. Charlie

If you have a Facebook profile you can upload your music there and make it playable in the Facebook Player. Other FB members could listen to your stuff. Or, if you have a website, you can upload your music in .mp3 or .wav format and provide a link to the file in your profile. There are other services that allow users to upload their recordings, like Reverbnation.com.

Sending music by email can be time consuming for the sender and recipient, depending on the filesize. If the complete tune is in mp3 format and weighs in at 1 or 2 MB, it won't take too long to up/download via email. That assumes you are using broadband ISP, as I am, and that they allow large attachments. Personally, I recommend you to create a personal website, promoting your talents, if you haven't done so already.

To answer the question about the Landis: it is not easy to learn to sew on such a machine unless you have had a lot of prior experience with various types of industrial sewing machines, or shoe repair equipment. If you do buy that machine (why would you?), you should find a close by shoe repair shop that has a similar model, to teach you how to use the machine. The sole stitchers are not like typical leather sewing machines. They are horses of a different color (usually green).

We have some members in Lusianne. Look them up and see if any are near you. Maybe one will have an extra machine they can let go of cheap, or in exchange for some horn or reed lessons.

To the tune of Tear Stained Letter, by Jo-El Sonnier

Thanks again for all your info and time and experience. Charlie, I got the Singer 111w155 and am hoping to get it wired correctly. I tried it by hand and it goes through the leather that I am sewing by hand with no problem. I took the motor apart and unfroze it and cleaned it. Checked it with ohm meter and all ok. Capacitor is ok, neighbor checked it for me. Still looking up wiring to switch. Will contact Singer to see if they can help. Thanks again. Charlie

If you have a Facebook profile you can upload your music there and make it playable in the Facebook Player. Other FB members could listen to your stuff. Or, if you have a website, you can upload your music in .mp3 or .wav format and provide a link to the file in your profile. There are other services that allow users to upload their recordings, like Reverbnation.com.

Sending music by email can be time consuming for the sender and recipient, depending on the filesize. If the complete tune is in mp3 format and weighs in at 1 or 2 MB, it won't take too long to up/download via email. That assumes you are using broadband ISP, as I am, and that they allow large attachments. Personally, I recommend you to create a personal website, promoting your talents, if you haven't done so already.

To answer the question about the Landis: it is not easy to learn to sew on such a machine unless you have had a lot of prior experience with various types of industrial sewing machines, or shoe repair equipment. If you do buy that machine (why would you?), you should find a close by shoe repair shop that has a similar model, to teach you how to use the machine. The sole stitchers are not like typical leather sewing machines. They are horses of a different color (usually green).

We have some members in Lusianne. Look them up and see if any are near you. Maybe one will have an extra machine they can let go of cheap, or in exchange for some horn or reed lessons.

To the tune of Tear Stained Letter, by Jo-El Sonnier

Thanks again for all your info and time and experience. Charlie, I got the Singer 111w155 and am hoping to get it wired correctly. I tried it by hand and it goes through the leather that I am sewing by hand with no problem. I took the motor apart and unfroze it and cleaned it. Checked it with ohm meter and all ok. Capacitor is ok, neighbor checked it for me. Still looking up wiring to switch. Will contact Singer to see if they can help. Thanks again. Charlie

If you have a Facebook profile you can upload your music there and make it playable in the Facebook Player. Other FB members could listen to your stuff. Or, if you have a website, you can upload your music in .mp3 or .wav format and provide a link to the file in your profile. There are other services that allow users to upload their recordings, like Reverbnation.com.

Sending music by email can be time consuming for the sender and recipient, depending on the filesize. If the complete tune is in mp3 format and weighs in at 1 or 2 MB, it won't take too long to up/download via email. That assumes you are using broadband ISP, as I am, and that they allow large attachments. Personally, I recommend you to create a personal website, promoting your talents, if you haven't done so already.

To answer the question about the Landis: it is not easy to learn to sew on such a machine unless you have had a lot of prior experience with various types of industrial sewing machines, or shoe repair equipment. If you do buy that machine (why would you?), you should find a close by shoe repair shop that has a similar model, to teach you how to use the machine. The sole stitchers are not like typical leather sewing machines. They are horses of a different color (usually green).

We have some members in Lusianne. Look them up and see if any are near you. Maybe one will have an extra machine they can let go of cheap, or in exchange for some horn or reed lessons.

To the tune of Tear Stained Letter, by Jo-El Sonnier

Thanks again for all your info and time and experience. Charlie, I got the Singer 111w155 and am hoping to get it wired correctly. I tried it by hand and it goes through the leather that I am sewing by hand with no problem. I took the motor apart and unfroze it and cleaned it. Checked it with ohm meter and all ok. Capacitor is ok, neighbor checked it for me. Still looking up wiring to switch. Will contact Singer to see if they can help. Thanks again. Charlie

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