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stelmackr

Free Wheeling Servo Motors For Sewing Machines

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Don't know how to really ask this question, so here goes.

I have three sewing machines FERDCO Pro 2000 (a.k.a Juki-441), FERDCO 1245 (a.k.a. Pfaff 1245) and a FERDCO Pro 206h (a.k.a. Consew 206). They all have analog (non-digital) speed setting servo motors. Two of the machines (2000 & 206h) stitch when the pedal is pressed on the toe and stop when the pedal is depressed on the heel of the pedal. When the pedal is not depressed the servo motor stops me from using the hand wheel. The same "locking" of the hand wheel occurs even when the servo motor is turned off. I have to depress the pedal slightly on the toe side to make the hand wheel turn freely. If depress too far--it starts sewing. I was told that this is the way the servo's were designed and mimic the old clutch motors. I am no expert, so I might be wrong here.

But, the third machine (1245) does not lock the hand wheel when I step on the heel of the pedal or when the servo is off. I like this functionality.

OK, OK, now the question(s): "Is there a place to purchase servo motors without the brake action? Can the servo motor be modified or adjusted to remove the brake action? Do digital servo motors have the brake action and can that brake action be removed? Can the brake function be removed buy some mechanical linkage adjustment?"

Bob Stelmack

www.pslac.org

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Bob,

I was going to ask this same question. I hate the brake. I have 3 servos and only one has the brake and its on my patcher which I hand wheel a lot. I have a Sewpro 500gr on my Consew and I think it has some sort of brake but it doesn't stop me from hand wheeling it and the motor on my Cowboy 4500 has a digital one that allows me to handwheel it.

All were purchased from Bob at Toledo so he definately has ones without it. I have asked him if there was a way to deactivate it and he didn't seem to know or possibly forgot to answer as I probably asked 5 other questions on the same email.

Unfortunately for me the Patcher is the one I really don't want the brake one because some times I'm sewing akward things like luggage and it makes it very difficult to even get to the pedal to depress it a little bit to release it and other times its just easier to handwheel it for a few stitches.

I would love to know how to deactivate it, I haven't found the time to take it off and tear into it although I'd have to bet there's a way.

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I have opened one of my SewPro 500 (Now Toledo Sew Slow) servo motors and adjusted the mechanical brake. I'm fairly sure one could set it for more free play than normal. I also have a Family Sew servo and it has an actual cork-something brake that gets screwed into an actuator frame. I believe that the brake can be either adjusted outward, or removed. Don't quote me on this, because I haven't opened that motor up yet.

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Wiz,

I have a Family servo on my patcher, this is the one I really don't want the brake on. Model number is FESM-550s. I may have to have a closer look at it. Do you think this could be done without removing the motor?

I have opened one of my SewPro 500 (Now Toledo Sew Slow) servo motors and adjusted the mechanical brake. I'm fairly sure one could set it for more free play than normal. I also have a Family Sew servo and it has an actual cork-something brake that gets screwed into an actuator frame. I believe that the brake can be either adjusted outward, or removed. Don't quote me on this, because I haven't opened that motor up yet.

Nevermind. You're 100% correct. Ill post pictures in a bit.

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Ok this took all of 5 minutes. I removed the end cap on the motor, there was three screws holding it on. This exposes a wheel and you can see in the pictures there's a cork brake pad. There's 2 screws holding it on. I didn't bother to try to adjust it as its directly on the arm that activates the motor. Ill report back if this causes any negatives but I doubt it will.

D606CA5C-CABC-4B03-A846-F180180D7AD2-48130-00002A6D1BE71CAE.jpg

1BFABAE7-EAB9-4A0E-8473-2038F9DE1F00-48130-00002A6D29BE40C6.jpg

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Billy,

No,it won't hurt a thing other than if your going fast & want to stop you'll have to remember to slow down when you get to the end of your stitching.

Edited by CowboyBob

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Ok this took all of 5 minutes. I removed the end cap on the motor, there was three screws holding it on. This exposes a wheel and you can see in the pictures there's a cork brake pad. There's 2 screws holding it on. I didn't bother to try to adjust it as its directly on the arm that activates the motor. Ill report back if this causes any negatives but I doubt it will.

Billy,

I believe you have the answer. I'll wait until I can warm up the garage and tackle the two servo motors to remove the clutch as you have indicated. It's just too cold to get try crawling around on that cold cement. I am sure you have helped many others that have the same needs for a clutch-less servo motor. Thanks for your fine pictures that will make it easier to do the same job you did.

Bob Stelmack

www.pslac.org

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Bob,

That's no problem with this machine as I go as slow as I can anyway, soon to be slower yet when that speed reducer gets here. I've been putting that off as I wasn't sure whether or not I was going to keep this motor or put on the 500GR.

Other Bob,

You'll have to report your findings, I have no idea if other motors have the same kind of brake so it might help others to post the brand. The one I did was a Family non digital type with the knob on the front. Of course we may be the only 2 people that don't want the brake on there??

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I do and don't like my brake, if that makes sense. I think I may adjust mine for more free play and leave it intact. That's how clutch motors work. Adjust the bolt for the amount of free play your foot is happy with, then feather the clutch, then fire on all cylinders.

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I know what you mean, there's times and machines that its nice but on my patcher its more of a pain than anything. The only thing it was nice for was to hold the foot up in the air but that was nearly impossible to do with just using the foot peddle, maybe once I get the speed reducer on there it'll be easier but right now its difficult, on my 4500 as you know you can leave the foot wherever, on the patcher it almost falls down after a certain point if that makes sense. The brake helped that but now I can just stop it when its all the way up, no big deal. I'd almost like it better if the brake was on when you first step on the peddle a little but was off when you backed off all the way. That way when you're going on all cylinders you can back off and apply the brake or not do anything with the peddle and free wheel all you want.

It could easily be adjusted but I didn't see any point in my case, less brake is still a brake and would cause friction when trying to use the handwheel without pressing the peddle.

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Just my .02

I have no problem with the brake, anywhere, it may be because I sew slower than some.

Anyway my speed dial and peddle seem to like each other. I can barely touch the peddle and it releases the brake enough to free wheel.

Perhaps Wiz's suggestion of loosening the bolt on the brake just slightly might be all you need.

ferg

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What we need is a motor that applies a cork brake when you press down on the back of the pedal and hold it down with your heel, or by a spring on the motor's control arm (like clutch motors do). This would release as soon as you moved the pedal forward any amount. After about 1/2 inch (adjustable +/-) of free motion (like a clutch motor), the motor would begin to drive the belts.

What I am describing combines the best mechanical features of a clutch motor with the full range speed control of a good servo motor.

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I think for certain machines that would make sense however I'm particularly talking about my patcher that is used strictly for doing repairs. I more often than not use the handwheel so I can get the needle in the same holes or a number of other reason. Most of the time these items only need a few stitches and a lot of them are in akward spots. The motor is there for longer runs and straighter runs where I can open up. If the brake is in place it prevents easy use of the hand wheel. There are times when trying to repair large suitcases where I'm in very akward positions and the suitcase is nearly resting on the peddle so trying to hold it while trying to crank the wheel and awkwardly trying to get my foot to the peddle to release the brake feels like I'm playing a version of twister.

With all that being said I don't have a speed reducer on it and even the slowest speed is too fast, I can feather it on long runs where theres enough momentum but the machine takes more torque in the position of the revolution where it lifts the foot so its not as easy at slow speeds I almost have to pump the peddle which almost feels like I'm using the old treadle.

On my other machines where the motor does nearly all of the work the brake is fine and it doesn't bother me because the need to use the handwheel is very rare.

I hope that makes sense, I'm not saying that brakes are terrible and shouldn't be there, just for my one particular purpose it is more of a hindrance than anything.

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What we need is a motor that applies a cork brake when you press down on the back of the pedal and hold it down with your heel, or by a spring on the motor's control arm (like clutch motors do). This would release as soon as you moved the pedal forward any amount. After about 1/2 inch (adjustable +/-) of free motion (like a clutch motor), the motor would begin to drive the belts.

What I am describing combines the best mechanical features of a clutch motor with the full range speed control of a good servo motor.

Yes that would be perfect. That would give you the option of having it or not basically.

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Other Bob,

You'll have to report your findings, I have no idea if other motors have the same kind of brake so it might help others to post the brand. The one I did was a Family non digital type with the knob on the front. Of course we may be the only 2 people that don't want the brake on there??

OK, here is my report: I could not be happier. The modification you suggested worked identically for me.

I sew quite slowly, so the idea that I need to stop on a dime is not needed. If I ever do need that feature or if I sell the machine, I can easily reinstall the cork clutch plate and will require no adjustments.

My servo motor was a Kingmax, Electronic Servo Motor, Model: KM-550W. The only safety precaution I took was to unplug the sewing machine before I started. Here are the photos:

Back of servo motor:

post-82-0-70674900-1358814359_thumb.jpg

End plate removed (held by three screws):

post-82-0-81670400-1358814467_thumb.jpg

Cork clutch engaged on flywheel (keeps servo and sewing machine stopped):

post-82-0-98543400-1358814796_thumb.jpg

Cork clutch removed (two screws held it in):

post-82-0-58124800-1358814824_thumb.jpg

Cork clutch with the two screws removed:

post-82-0-15164700-1358814896_thumb.jpg

Bob Stelmack

www.pslac.org

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That looks identical to mine. I'm super happy with mine so far, its much better for me now. I just threw the brake pad and screws in the drawer in case I ever need it or sell it.

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I see that this is an old thread. It deals with disabling the brake on the old style 550 watt servos which have a simple removable brake pad. I just aquired an Adler 220 76-273 and I'm adding a 750 watt servo and a 9" speed reducer. I bought a Consew csm-3000 for about $150.

My problem with this new Censew CSM-3000 servo is the braking system. I want to disable it like I did on all of my Consew 550 watts servos (like the ones pictured above) but I cant figure out how to do it. these newer style 775 watt servos have I believe a magnetic brake rather then a mechanical brake pad of the older models. Has anyone figured out how to disable these magnetic brakes (if that's what is actually is) ???

Can anyone explain how to disable the braking system on these newer style 750 watt servos? Also I'd like to hear your opinion on  ..... why they put these undesirable brakes on sewing machine servos

 

 

this screen shot is what I bought or ordered off Amazon. But it's not quite what they sent me.

750-watt-servo.jpg

 

this is what they sent me. It has four front buttons rather then two.

750-watt-control-panel (2).jpg

adler-speed-reducer-750-watt-servo (2).jpg

so if you know how to disable the braking system on this type of 750 watts Censew servo motor please let me know.

thanks

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Not possible afaik. Let me guess the speed reducer makes it harder to turn the hand wheel by hand. If so I think the reduction is too big. I have the same issue on my Singer 45D91. The big reduction makes it hard to turn the hand wheel. I don´t have the problem on other machines with smaller reduction.

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Constabulary thanks for your response but I don't understand what you are getting at. what is: (Not possible "afaik")

The hand wheel turns just fine with or without the new speed reducer. Much to my apposite delight the hand wheel turns with very little effort at all (this is my 1st ever Adler, I've never even been in the same room as an Adler until this purchase.)

A servo motor with a speed reducer pulley is how I set up all my industrial machines past and present. It makes the machine slow with additional torque. I works so well that on my Consew 226r I can watch thread being pulled through the eye of the needle as I sew (slowly) while allowing me to punch through just about anything.

If I didn't explain why I want to disable the brake is it because this servo motor starts a speed of 500 rpm and goes up to maybe 4500. So when you start this motor you are already going a min of 500 rpm. That is unacceptable. I want to start at zero and slowly climb up to 500 or higher. (I have no need for speed). Removing or disabling the braking system on servos works great for me and the way I like to sew.

My question is does anyone know how to disable the braking system on these Consew CSM3000 or similar 750 watt servo motor ????

thanks

20201102_084704.jpg

My question is does anyone know how to disable the braking system on these Consew CSM3000 or similar 750 watt servo motor ????

thanks

Edited by Primosand

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I might have also misunderstood the question.  Here is a manual (not exactly your model number) that gives directions to change the slow start up speed:

 

https://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/CSM1000.pdf

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Have you installed the CSM-3000 yet? I have the same motor (just installed 3 days ago) with speed reducer on my Juki 1508 and mine does not start at 500 until I push the pedal completely down. I can run at 200. You may want to reset to the factory defaults. Brushless servo motors do not have a mechanical brake. The only issue I am having is trying to get my needle positioner to work!

You may want to check out this post:  https://www.theupholsteryforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=517

It deals with the same motor you (and I) have. I'm trying to find some better instructions myself.

afaik: As For As I Know

Edited by DustyBench

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