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rdb

Motorcycle tool bag?

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Had to make something different, so I thought I'ld try a motorcycle tool bag.

Since I never made one, all I cared about was the architecture of the thing, so no tooling.

I didn't make a template, just measured out with a steel, and cut. I think it worked out, so I will make a pattern for it later.

I just finished it, so it's not cleaned up, fraying edges, string sticking out, etc. All I plan to do is oil, condition, and seal.

To those who make these, I have a couple questions. Looking at pix on the web, there really isn't a good view of attachments to the bike setups. I just used some dee rings, and a strap. Any good advice is greatfully accepted.

I don't have a sewing machine yet, so it's hand stitched, somewhat hastily. I didn't take the time to wet form it around a mold, but next time, I will. I know none of them are, they're actually rounder than mine, but I like the case look. Adding a liner would mean you could add stiffener too.

Anywho, just adding leather porno for you to look at.

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first off thanks for the leather porn... I've never made any bags so i'm no help there but it looks great to me.

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Thanx Freak. Me neither, without a sewing machine, I'm just another strap maker...lol

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looks very sexy.....

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Thanx Wolf, I've never been associated with sexy before! Maybe I should have Johanna let me into the adult section now....lol

If there is any one reading this though, who does make these bags, and it's not a priority idea or anything, please show how you do the attachment to the bike.

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Honestly it depends on the bike and how you want to attach it..... On my bike, I made my tool bag to attach to the light bar which is horizontal.... but on some bikes you attach to the forks. Most of these use two separate straps to strap dont to the fork tube above the seal.

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I love the look of the bag. Very nice and looks like it fits much stuff. On my bike the tool bag attaches to the handlebar risers with a strap. 4 slits on the back of the bag allow the strap to first feed from the inside out. Around the first riser. Back into the second slit. Across the middle through the inside. back out, around the second riser and back in from the 4th slit. Then both ends buckle and strap meet and buckle like a belt from the inside. Shoot, I hope this helps cause I was picturing it as I typed it....lol

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Thanx Spider! That was a good explanation, I get it now. I just hate cutting slot holes in leather, but it sounds like the tried and true method works.

I thought the dee rings could strap above the stabilizer, but it sounds like I need a redesign. I'll have to visit a few bike shops to check things out.

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I've had the opportunity to make quite a number of fork/toolbags and gotta tell ya, I like the direction this one is going in. Nicely done.

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Well, thanx Gremlin, but your website pix show how it's done! I still don't have the patience to do all that braidwork, but it does make the bag...nice work

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generally you would cut slots in the back like this. i hand stich mine also

nice job on the first one!!

if you strap it the way you have it, the bag will slide around

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Thanx Beeza. Good example. I see you have lined yours. It makes a big difference in looks. I'll try it that way on the next one.

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Thanx Beeza. Good example. I see you have lined yours. It makes a big difference in looks. I'll try it that way on the next one.

any time!

most of my bags are not lined. really depends on the use. i have done a few lined bags for guys that use them for a place to put thier cell phone ect.

i am finishing up an oversized "tool bag" that is lined.

i'll post it up over the weekend one i get it finnished

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Thanx Gearsmithy. Looks beautiful.

This has been a good topic thread, everyone got to show stuff. We have some talented people lurking around everywhere on this board!!!!

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Update:

This is the final prototype, THANX EVERYONE for your help. I will still change things, like maybe relocating the dee rings to the side, a lining, and maybe a stiffener, but it looks good in the hand, actually better than the photos show.

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Edited by Johanna
reduced pic sizes

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First I want to say that this is very nice work from all you guys.

I want to pose a question for consideration when designing our work.

To slot or not to slot.

I just want to give a different perspective about slotting.

There are times I do slot and times I don't. It depends on the application.

rdb's straps for the lid could use some slots for the purpose of keeping the straps alligned. I do that for some styles of saddle bags(google civil war bags and acoutriments(SP?), and after I get the strap set where I want it I hammer it down(on the dry helps if it never noves again) where it goes through the slots (I hammer everything to get a more blended finish look)most saddle bag pats and soft briefcase pats show this.

As for slots for the attaching straps I'd rather go with a more custom fit approach. Keep in mind that we've seen this weave style attachent strap for some decades now, but in my experience it was deveoped by the contractors for HD who wanted to reduce labour.Not to mention their bags were genaric,like one size fits all.

That's where the question comes in to slot or not to slot.

I would say that if you have left over pieces of leather and want to make a simple bag, then go with slots as you probably would not be expecting to charge a higher price. so you want to reduce your laboar.

But if you were doing a custome job, say like our seat makers, and wanted to do matching tooling and such, then I would attach the attaching straps to the bag and arrange the buckles so as to not interfere with any metal parts of the bike.

On a note of personal preference I don't care for the straps and buckle to be inside the bag taking up space. Since I don't have pics I'll try to explain my alternetive.

[ Oh, rdb, I like your ring idea but a guy has to be real carefull of their placement so as to not rub on the fork tubes ect...]

What I have done with tool bags is add a second panel to the back and slot it for the horisontal fork strap as Beez and Gears show in their pics, only the buckle is on the outside. I also plan for a set of slots for a left and right verical straps(you could get away with one) to keep the bags from sliding down the forks. Again buckles outside. Now on some forks that have a wide distance between them you can plan your buckles to be centered next to the bag. They're out of the way and away from bike parts, and easier to get to. My forks are closer and it's kind of a pain but if you only remove the bag once or twice a year it isn't any more diffacult then some of the other things we have to do on our bikes.

Another way is to just stich the straps to the back of the bag and use a rivit at the stress points. (An aside, somebody mentioned hand stiching v.s. mechine, there are still may hand stiched saddles out there, and hand stiching has been going on long before the mechanised age. So develope your hand stiching. Some customers prefer it and will pay more for it. Don't feel your work is sub standard because you didn't use a mechine.)

With a bit of imagination we can find ways to attchieve the same ends and sometimes get a cleaner more custom look.

Keep up the good guys, GH

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As I noted above, I don't like slots in things generally. If I use them like on my guitar straps, it's through two or more layers of leather.

This proto was made just to see if i could make a product similar to what I've seen (which wasn't much). Having looked at gearsmithy and beeza's photos, I went for the traditional style. I think it's always best when you start something new, to follow "them that's come before ya"

I don't believe they get any less for their traditionally slotted work, so it's fair to say, it's an accepted practice.

You are right about the dee rings. Originally I had intended to hang the bag from them, and just tighten with the long strap, but after modifying the bag to the slots, I didn't want to leave the holes from the dee rings, so I just left them on. The buckle straps slide through them now, so that's what keeps the straps sort of straight. As I noted above, if I use them, I will move them to the stitching line sides.

I will improve the whole thing, now that I've done one the regular way, and I'm definitely taking notes from all youse guys, very thankfully.

As yet in my re-startup of the leather trade, I haven't run into anyone who is willing to come up with the money for the hand stitching work, just running into regular folk willing to spend a tad more than what's in the stores, but if I do, I'll sell the stuffing out of the hand stitching. Just wish for a machine to be able to keep prices reasonable to more people.

An old saying: "I'ld rather make a quick nickel, than a slooow dime"....lol

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Yeah, there's no hard and fast rules about much(other than physics) we share ideas and experience, mix and match whatever suits our situation.

I did mean to say that you did good on the second one, I just took up a lot of space on my first post I was trying to quit while I was ahead.

I do want to suggest that for shaping you don't have to make a mold block for evreything unless you plan to make a lot of this or that, it would pay to. Instead, I have a tack hammer (wood handle) the end is beveled on opposite sides so it can be used like a bone folder or heavy creaser. I use it (leather on the dry) to shape lines between corners. Not line lines but say on the bottom front of your first bag rolls up rather than following the corners as with your second bag. You'll find you come up with all kinds of tools to do a job that you normally wouldn't think of using.

Keep at it and keep looking at other work. Even purses, suitcases, rucksacks, things you wouldn't think would relate to bikes or what ever your happen to be working on. We learn much that way.

GH

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i like the clean look of slotting the bag and having the bulk of the strap inside and there is no change of the buckle beating up on anything. i also leave the strap a bit long to accommodate different applications. many of my bags end up mounted at the bottom of the down tubes. fork bags are generally mounted with the strap over the triple tree so there is no need for a vertical strap.

BTW.. i use 10 oz leather for my bag bodies plus the 2-3oz lining.

there are many ways of doing things and it is always nice to see something fresh and the reasons why we do it that way. i hadn't though about setting a strap by hammer it down but, that sounds like something i will try

you need a camera Hidemechanic!!

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I got a cam for my son for xmas and we haven't got it set up yet. He's out of town, I should do that.Frnkly I've been quite frustrated lately because I hade alll of my work from the past 5-6 years deleted and haven't found the right person to help me retreave them.

Pounding things down that need 'blending', I use a smooth round face hammer for those who may not know. With bags and other projects you get real creative as to what to use for an anvil or a backer while tapping down stiching. You will also learn that different things take different presure.

On flat stiched objcts, say a belt loop for a holster of sheath(prior to stiching the body) you can pound pretty good on them. However if you are using a hammer around the seem of a gusset on a bag you want to be careful not to nick the edge with the edge of the hammer. Same with tapping around any folded leather as we all know, a whack to a fold can crack the grain side.

Always best to start out light and add as needed. Sure makes things look well finished and fitted.GH

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rdb, I also forgot to mention that I like your weather flaps. I use those a lot on saddle bags, I add a grommet near the end of the flap and tie a thong on it so it will keep things in shape while in transit. I also will stich a billit and buckle in place of the grommet and thong, depends on how fancy the bag is.GH

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Without pix...it's all talk....lol

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Where the extended gusset folds inside the bag at the top, what I call a weather flap. Is that what didn't make sence?GH

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You made sense, I was just teasin'

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