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Sarge

Members
  • Content Count

    11
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Sarge

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 07/30/1937

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Moore, OK
  • Interests
    Church, Golf, Shooting, Leather working

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Mainly holsters
  1. I am interested in making an all leather paddle holster, but not having much luck. Does anyone have any tips or suggestions on this? Or do you have a pattern, or where to find a good one? I'm looking at making one for my 1911, and my wife's Ruger LCR .38.
  2. I am interested in making an all leather paddle holster, but not having much luck. Does anyone have any tips or suggestions on this? Or do you have a pattern, or where to find a good one? I'm looking at making one for my 1911, and my wife's Ruger LCR .38.
  3. Don't know anything about your question. But I used to work with Col. Al Abernathy at Fort Sill Okla. Your town was named after his kinfolk and he used to return for the special celebration days. I'm sure he is dead by now, so I'm just wasting time and space with this info. But what do you expect from old geezers with nothing but time on their hands? Sarge
  4. Hi Katsass, Here I am thanking you again for the info on the super sheen, sure to save me some money, which on a fixed income is no small favor. I will get a regulator when I find the proper fittings for the compressor, that too probably saved me in the long run. Maybe you ought to write a book (just kidding) but please be sure to post your ideas, in just a few short posts I've learned a lot from you. Sarge
  5. Katsass Hi, Katsass, I followed your suggestion on the towel experiment and found it to be true. So I took Tandy's Super Sheen, (because that's all I had) and applied two coats, allowing a few hours for drying in between. Tried the towel again, and none rubbed off. Then I set a sweating glass of iced tea on it for 1 hour of condensation running down the side onto the leather, and there was no water staining marks or other visible marks. As good fortune would have it, a friend of mine gave me a 3 gallon pancake compressor and a cheap air brush that he had and never used. I just have to get the right adapters to hook the air brush to the compressor, that's probably why he never used it. Sarge
  6. Yeah, katsass does have interesting comments and well as being helpful. The bug was by my instigation, as I did not understand vinigaroon, except for the huge bug I was introduced to while stationed at Ft. Bliss back in the 50's. Sarge
  7. Thanks flintlock, next time I've got some nice pieces of scrap I'll give this a try. How much amonia? a quart?, 1/2 doz of shells? or just experiment? And thanks again for the warning about rubber gloves. Sarge
  8. Wow! I sure like the color of those holsters, as well as the holsters. I am sure going to use your formula and even do some research and experimenting myself. Plus, I hop to do as fine work as you do, if a 74 yr old coot can learn how. Thank you for your time and advice. Sarge
  9. Thank you for the info. You don't sound like an old grump, but I'll take your word for it. I vaguely remember your situation, I quit smoking in 1963. What is vinegaroon? When I was stationed at Ft. Bliss in TX a vinegaroon was a big bug. The dilution factor is 5 parts dye, I part alky, right? You are right about the polish, even after much polishing a little bit still comes off. I will be trying Fiebings oil dyes in the future. Sarge
  10. I just want to say thanks for the replies, I've not tried the oil dyes, but intend to. I really like the results of the shoe cream, it went on smooth, and even, and has a nice luster that is not too shiny. However, I do not know how durable it will be -- we'll see after I wear it around. Thanks again Sarge
  11. I'm a relative newbe at leather work, read online stuff about woes and problems with water based, and spirit based dyes. i.e. green streaks in tan spirit dyes, water based dyes running and ruining clothes and just looking bad from sweat or rain etc. My particular problem is uneven finishes (like dark burnished areas) around the molded areas. So last week I took a holster that was supposed to be a right handed one (but I cut it wrong and ended up with a lefty) and I took my shoe repair shop friends advice and used a good quality shoe cream, did two coats after the first dried and was brushed and it came out beautiful (the finish, not so much the holster, I still have a lot to learn). So, I'm asking -- what about shoe cream vss dye? Any help would be greatly appreciated. dservati
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