The "finsih" For A Saddle

[Aurelie]

Hello boys and girls!

I am running out of ideas here...and i really need you to help me find an alternative solution.

Usually for the "finish" of a saddle i do it that way :

1/ olive oil

2/ let it dry

3/ some Skidmore's cream on it

4/ let it dry

5 buff it

and it's good to go!

BUT if this process is acceptable, i find that it lacks some "shiny " aspect

It lacks the shiny aspect i would need for a saddle show

I have seen some terrific saddles , very nice and shiny built by Pedro Pedrini and he has been very kind to point me out some stuff to use for this shiny aspect = > Wyosheene which apparently is replacing the Old good well known "Neat Lac"

Here i am encouterning THE BIG TROUBLE

They can't ship Wyosheene overseas because that's inflammable => so i can forget about it

"Neat Lac" does not exist anymore...

I ve contacted Tandy in UK asking them if they had something similar, and apparently no....

So i am back at square 1....

Any idea of what i could use aside olive oil and skidmore's to get a nice shiny finish??? (that can be shipped overseas without troubles? and that won't ruin the leather?)

I so hate it when things do not go as i wish... :/

[Go2Tex]

Have you considered Fiebings Tan-Kote? Not as shiny a lacquer but much better for the leather.

[Aurelie]

Yup , i ordered some but i thought it was a different product with a different goal in the process

so you would oil the saddle and then add tan kote on it when it s dry?

and this would give a shiny/glossy aspect (even is less than neat lac or whyosheen?)

[Go2Tex]

Yup , i ordered some but i thought it was a different product with a different goal in the process

so you would oil the saddle and then add tan kote on it when it s dry?

and this would give a shiny/glossy aspect (even is less than neat lac or whyosheen?)

Yes. I oil, let it dry a day or so, then add Tan-Kote. It gives a mellow satin sheen. Resolene is better for sealing antique or black dye, but it is harder to re-oil and looks plastic.

[jwwright]

Ditto what Brett said....I also use Tan Kote. JW

[Aurelie]

Ok thanks a lot for those replies, guys

i really appreciate

[steve mason]

In my opinion use 100% neatsfoot oil, then tan cote. Olive oil is for salads.

[Timbo]

Fiebings Atomic Balm with atom wax leaves a nice shine.....always was too shiny for me, but might be what you are looking for.

[Aurelie]

<br />Fiebings Atomic Balm with atom wax leaves a nice shine.....always was too shiny for me, but might be what you are looking for

Just the name of it sounds great!

I am not into the "shiny" thing but the saddle i am building is black

and i find the "glossy" aspect really attractive when i am working the wet leather but when drying it is not so shiny

the glossy aspect highlight the carving

that 's what i am looking for , for that saddle i am bringing into sheridan

Ok , i am going to search where i can find that

thanks guys for replies

@ Steve : i do not like the "sticky " aspect of Neat foot oil ; that's why i use olive oil (i prefer the result ...just a matter of taste )

Edited January 28, 2012 by Aurelie

[Chaed]

I hope Aurelie doesn't mind me reviving this thread for another question. I've been browsing the forum for an answer and pretty much found it. Only problem is that this answer is not compatible with my possibilities:

I'm planning on antiquing my first saddle when it's finished and read pretty much everywhere that you need to seal it first so the antique will work. Unquestioned #1 for this is NeatLac.

I can't get NeatLac in Europe. It's not sold here due to some chemical restrictions (at least that's what they told me) and they won't ship it overseas for me because it's flammable.

I made some scrap experiments with TanKote, but it's not water-resistant. I'd get a heart attack on my first ride in the rain.

I found following possibilities that are shipable:

- Acrylic Resolene

- Saddle Lac

- Leather Sheen

- (Balm w/ Atom Wax <-- although I heard this is not water resistant?)

I want to avoid that uber shiny, plastic-like look and feel at the end.

What do you saddle makers prefer if you desperately want to antique and are out of NeatLac/ClearLac/Wyosheene, or whatever name it goes by these days?

[Aurelie]

I hope Aurelie doesn't mind me reviving this thread for another question. I've been browsing the forum for an answer and pretty much found it. Only problem is that this answer is not compatible with my possibilities:

I'm planning on antiquing my first saddle when it's finished and read pretty much everywhere that you need to seal it first so the antique will work. Unquestioned #1 for this is NeatLac.

I can't get NeatLac in Europe. It's not sold here due to some chemical restrictions (at least that's what they told me) and they won't ship it overseas for me because it's flammable.

I made some scrap experiments with TanKote, but it's not water-resistant. I'd get a heart attack on my first ride in the rain.

I found following possibilities that are shipable:

- Acrylic Resolene

- Saddle Lac

- Leather Sheen

- (Balm w/ Atom Wax <-- although I heard this is not water resistant?)

I want to avoid that uber shiny, plastic-like look and feel at the end.

What do you saddle makers prefer if you desperately want to antique and are out of NeatLac/ClearLac/Wyosheene, or whatever name it goes by these days?

good question :D

because yes that was my problem to get those products we can't get in europe for those very reasons.....

only solution i found so far but not yet tested :

order those products (at least antique from weaver) from an intermediate that ship those by boat.....

second solution : i gave up wanting that kind of finish

[Frank]

I put Bag Kote on all parts, buff out and let dry for 10-15 minutes. After that I use a Tuff Kote from Weaver and do the same.

[Jbarv Bulls]

I have good luck with Weavers top coat and springfield leathers pro clear. They are similar to Tandys super sheen. Leaves a nice shine, but not as glossy as wyosheen.

[keplerts]

Is Tan Kote and Bag Kote the same thing? If not, what is each one used for? What are the advantages/disadvantages?

Thanks,

Tom

[JAM]

Try RTC (weavers and sheridan leather both carry it). No volatiles, dries really fast, and is the best resist for antiquing I've found (2-3 coats). It goes on thin like water, and dries fast, but let the final coat dry over night before you antique. You can use it as a topcoat when you're done, also. It is kinda shiny.

[lottarope]

Sorry Im not much help in the high shine department. We go for more of a deep glow and highlights in the sun finish. Just our preference. Sometimes well use a light coat of bag coat or glycerine saddle soap buffed to give it some shine.

As this is a thread on finishes maybe I can get some feed back from some of you:

We use U82 top grade saddles oil from weaver and have liked it. anybody have more to say about this product versus other neatsfoot type products.

I have been thinking of trying Bee naturals#1 saddle oil as I have been very impressed with their Rudy's conditioner and finish. In our part of the word we don't necessarily need a fungicide so I was considering just the regular one. Comments or info on these products?

Also was wondering if some of you had any feedback on the Oakwood products Weaver is carrying .

And any experience out their with oil darkening liquid or oil stains. I have a customer who would like their saddle browner. It's a ranch saddle and my reply was oil and and time. He seemed happy with this so I've dropped it. Stains can be splotchy and scare me those of you with experience ild appreciate your help.

I was talking to my dad the other day and somebody said something on how with leather finish seems to be a branch of voodoo. I'm waiting for one to be made from ground up bat intestines that will "magically shine, preserve, protect and waterproof all your leather products" lol

[Aurelie]

never used those products you're telling about...so i won't be of any help...but still interested to hear some inputs about those

[Chaed]

Hey guys I'm reviving this thread another time. So it happened. I went out riding, the rain caught me and six hours into the wetness my antique started to smear all over my newly built saddle and partially wash out. Here's what I did, please tell me where I went wrong.

1) 2 light coats of olive oil, let dry 24hrs in between

2) 2 light coats of resolene 50/50 with water, let dry 24hrs in between

3) fiebings antique

4) 1 light coat of tankote, dry

5) 3 light coats of resolene 50/50 with water, dry

there was buffing involved after every step too. Where did I go wrong in my finish???

[Aurelie]

what gone wrong?

you wanted to re-build the antique ?

you ve got stains and spots sploched?

[Chaed]

Aurelie, I went riding in the rain with my newly built saddle. Once it was soaked through, the antique started coming off and splotching. The process I posted above was what I had done during building the saddle. My question now is why the antique came off and what I had done wrong. I thought so many layers of resolene should have been enough to make it weatherproof.

[Aurelie]

Oh ok

i did not get your meaning right

I can't tell you about resolene , this is a product i can't import in France ( too dangerous to travel they say )

same with wyosheen, antique from fiebings....

I ve heard that resolene was good but i do not know how to best use it .....maybe some "specialist" around will give his imput

but your process sounds rather good to me

1 question though : why 50/50 resolene + water? (does not weaken the power of resolene?)

to waterproof leather on saddle = my only mean is :

- time

-avoid water for a while

- use your arms + Skidmore's leatherproofing beewax =< works some wonders and does not block leather from oiling

but you have to avoid storms during the time you waterproof your leather

for everything aside saddle = tuff kote if i really need the protection (i do not really like it because it kinda "block" the leather for oiling)

i am not helping you i guess - sorry

Aurelie

[Chaed]

LOL, avoiding water for some time is a good one! Tell that to the clouds in the sky!

And because you asked I used resolene 50/50 because I read on here that if you use it pure, you run the danger of it cracking when you bend the leather. That's why some folks use it diluted and simply brush on more coats. You think there could be my problem? As for not shipping it to France... are you sure? I'm from Europe too and know the deal with not finding neatlack, but I found a site that has no problem shipping resolene and co to Europe. Check out www.stecksstore.com. I've been satisfied with them so far, and they're the only one shipping flammable stuff.

As for skidmore's, I never used that. Will it seal antique? Or do you have to use it after you put resolene etc. on?

[Aurelie]

Ok the 50/50 for avoiding cracking is right and logical

i do not know : maybe not enough coats of the mix??

skidmore's is beewax so i do not think it will "seal" your antique unless you put 100 + coats before using your saddle

that's 1 reason i do not put antique on saddles that are going to be "used" (understand outside) = it's nice but a pain in the butt to keep in good shape

i keep it simple (understand no dye, no antique, nothing that possibly can go "splotchy" under a storm) and "sturdy" = the way a tool should be

Regarding "flamable" products =

thanks for the link , i will have a look at it

but knows that : most of companies do not anymore send those product airplane or even by ship because it's flamable. Now it's forbidden.....Yeah new laws!

maybe some compagnies take the "risk" to send it....but the one taking the biggest risk is the buyer => If customs tumble on your package : they will keep it and you even may be asked to pay fees for "trying to import dangerous products" and be in bigger troubles (that's at least the way it goes in France)

I did the maths....and will go for a safer option even if it's not the simplier

i have no money to throw by the windows and no need troubles with customs.....

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

Like Jim, I use Tan Coat most of the time. Once in a while I use Balm with Atom Wax if the customer wants it, but; the result is almost the same.

Bob