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How To Make Applying Cement Less Of A Messy Process?

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Hello fellow forumers. I was wondering if any of you know a way to make using cement out of a tube less messy. I have some Barge cement which comes in a plain old blue tube, and the tube opening is just a huge hole that:

#1 Likes to spurt out way too much cement at a time.

#2 There are always little, sticky, filaments of glue that attach themselves to everything and get all over the place.

Is there another type of cement-dispensing type of little contraption that I could put the cement in to, that would give me much better control of it while I'm using it? For instance a squeese container with a needle and cap, so that I can just get a little bit at a time...

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Tandy sells a package of small desposable brushes that should work for what you are doing. I don't buy in small tubes as I buy it by the gallon and have a bottle with a brush. For large areas I have a water bottle with a pull up type top that I squeeze it out on a piece of sheeps wool for. But cement will get everywhere you don't want it to, it's just part of Murphys Laws you cannot change..LOL

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Forget the tube. Contact cement needs to be fresh; by that I mean it needs enough solvent (thinner) in it. If it is not thinned enough, it becomes this uncontrollable goo, stringy etc.

I recommend a can of contact cement and a can of thinner. Take the cap/brush that comes with it and put it on the thinner. When you want to use it, put the brush in the glue and apply the glue with it. You might have to put a little thinner in the glue to start with. Then when you are finished put the brush back in the thinner can. The next time you use the glue, you will carry a little thinner from the can on the brush into the glue, keeping it "fresh".

You can get a glue bottle from Springfield Leather and put the glue in it, then every week or so, put 1/2 to 1 oz of thinner in the glue bottle and shake it up.

Also, use Master All Purpose cement not Barge, the new Barge formula is not quite as good as the old formula. The Master has a Lion on it and is made by Petronia. Don't get the other Master which is made by Testor for models.

Art

Hello fellow forumers. I was wondering if any of you know a way to make using cement out of a tube less messy. I have some Barge cement which comes in a plain old blue tube, and the tube opening is just a huge hole that:

#1 Likes to spurt out way too much cement at a time.

#2 There are always little, sticky, filaments of glue that attach themselves to everything and get all over the place.

Is there another type of cement-dispensing type of little contraption that I could put the cement in to, that would give me much better control of it while I'm using it? For instance a squeese container with a needle and cap, so that I can just get a little bit at a time...

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Hello fellow forumers. I was wondering if any of you know a way to make using cement out of a tube less messy. I have some Barge cement which comes in a plain old blue tube, and the tube opening is just a huge hole that:

#1 Likes to spurt out way too much cement at a time.

#2 There are always little, sticky, filaments of glue that attach themselves to everything and get all over the place.

Is there another type of cement-dispensing type of little contraption that I could put the cement in to, that would give me much better control of it while I'm using it? For instance a squeese container with a needle and cap, so that I can just get a little bit at a time...

I make a lot ob things like bible covers that require a thin line of glue along seams and edges.

1- use tape to tape off the areas that you don't want to glue. I use scotch tape and leave a 1/8 edge exposed and run the glue along it. Let it dry for a few minutes and pull off the tape.

2- get a pop bottle and fill it with Master. Poke a small hole in the top. You will get a thin line when you squeeze it, it won;t dry out, out a sheep scrap on the top to seal it and to use for a spreader, and throw it away when it's empty.

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I make a lot ob things like bible covers that require a thin line of glue along seams and edges.

1- use tape to tape off the areas that you don't want to glue. I use scotch tape and leave a 1/8 edge exposed and run the glue along it. Let it dry for a few minutes and pull off the tape.

2- get a pop bottle and fill it with Master. Poke a small hole in the top. You will get a thin line when you squeeze it, it won;t dry out, out a sheep scrap on the top to seal it and to use for a spreader, and throw it away when it's empty.

Awesome thanks! That's a great idea using tape to mask, so that I can just go crazy with the stuff and apply it quickly and evenly.

Forget the tube. Contact cement needs to be fresh; by that I mean it needs enough solvent (thinner) in it. If it is not thinned enough, it becomes this uncontrollable goo, stringy etc.

I recommend a can of contact cement and a can of thinner. Take the cap/brush that comes with it and put it on the thinner. When you want to use it, put the brush in the glue and apply the glue with it. You might have to put a little thinner in the glue to start with. Then when you are finished put the brush back in the thinner can. The next time you use the glue, you will carry a little thinner from the can on the brush into the glue, keeping it "fresh".

You can get a glue bottle from Springfield Leather and put the glue in it, then every week or so, put 1/2 to 1 oz of thinner in the glue bottle and shake it up.

Also, use Master All Purpose cement not Barge, the new Barge formula is not quite as good as the old formula. The Master has a Lion on it and is made by Petronia. Don't get the other Master which is made by Testor for models.

Art

Thanks for the tips, great advice about the thinner to keep it fresh and at the right consistency. Do you have a type or brand of thinner that you suggest for this?

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Thinner is specific to the cement, for master use master, for barge use barge.

Art

Awesome thanks! That's a great idea using tape to mask, so that I can just go crazy with the stuff and apply it quickly and evenly.

Thanks for the tips, great advice about the thinner to keep it fresh and at the right consistency. Do you have a type or brand of thinner that you suggest for this?

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Chuck Burrows suggests in one of his videos that it's best not to use the brush that's left in the can of cement. It tends to have glue on up the 'stick' that then drips down onto the brush or (worse) the middle of your project.

I'm giving him credit on this idea partly because it's only right and partly because when I didn't listen, things screwed up precisely as he predicted.

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That's why I said to leave the brush top on the can of thinner, it stays clean. I now use the bottles I got from Kevin at SLC. Even though you can adjust the brush so only the tip is in the glue, I still switch the brush back to thinner when I am done for the day. The whole idea is to keep enough thinner in the glue.

Art

Chuck Burrows suggests in one of his videos that it's best not to use the brush that's left in the can of cement. It tends to have glue on up the 'stick' that then drips down onto the brush or (worse) the middle of your project.

I'm giving him credit on this idea partly because it's only right and partly because when I didn't listen, things screwed up precisely as he predicted.

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