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GoldArmored

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About GoldArmored

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Canada

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Custom horse tack
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  1. It's amazing! I love the color. The one thing I'd have to say is practice the mule foot. It should start big and deep and go small. It's not easy because it's all about controlling the pressure of the mallet!
  2. Nice quote, Thor! Blake, your tooling is great! I'd like to suggest you to try some decorative cuts exercises. These cuts should start deep and wide, and end tiny. Smooth decorative cuts are easier to do on good quality leather that has been properly cased Same with the mule foot. The first one should be big and deep, and the last one is small and ''on the surface'', and of equal distance from each other
  3. Hello! English bridle leather is a pre-dyed and oiled/waxed type of leather made from veg tan leather. I have multiple 8-10oz (the thickness of english bridle leather) hides of tooling veg tan leather. Sometimes I only need just a little piece of english bridle leather so I would like to know what products to use and what's the process to make my own english bridle leather. Instead of buying huge hides of this in black, chocolate, london, and havana, and only using 10% of them, I thought it would be a good idea to make my own instead. So far I've tried Fiebing's oil Dye, eco-flow pro, and fiebings normal dye and none of them really penetrates to the center of the thickness. (maybe if I wet the leather first?). After that I finish the leather with resolene, satin sheen or tan-kote (I found tan-kote being the best for this). Lastly I oil the leather with neetsfoot composite. Tho, even if I oil, and oil and oil, the leather is never as smooth and «heavy» as a real english bridle leather. I've tried this on herman oak, Oak leaf and some high quality european imported veg leather. Any tips would be very appreciated, Thx! -Susie (It's for the making of actual english bridles and reins lol, and my customers are trained english riders and they know if the leather is good or not)
  4. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=62827 found this, but not so clear for the other side. First is this I guess? :
  5. How it's done!!?? I just can't figure out... I make horse tack and all the bridle straps et breastcollar tugs have the keepers sewn onto the straps, no stops, no knots, just one long clean stitch going thru the keepers. Do they use special machines for that? I have a Tippmann Boss and a Pfaff 545, just sayin'. thanks for your help! -Susie
  6. Apparently, someone had the same issues and posted the same question here. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=39977 Plastazote seems great, I think I'll start with a 1/8'' thinkness. thx again!
  7. Thank you gmace99! Do you know where to get this very thin foam? When I search for thin latex foam sheets, there're matress and pillows only. Also what thickness is better? Thanks so much for your help!
  8. very nice indeed! reminds me of snake scales. I guess it's an embossing machine (a roller), not some kind of hand stamping tool
  9. I've start making english bridles and I'd like to know what is the soft material they use as a padding for the noseband, the browband and the crown. A thin layer of neoprene maybe? Or a smooth layer of leather? maybe it's just the same leather as we see but folded behind, but I really feel that it's another material, some cushion. I don't want to mess up my own bridle since it was pretty expensive lol, so if anybody know, please tell me? Thanks for your help!!
  10. Hi everyone! I'm looking for unique ornaments for renaissance / medieval / viking / celtic leather goods such as bracers, pouches, and mostly horse tack. Here are some pics of what I'm looking for. Most of them are from europe, I wouldnt mind buying there, if only I knew WHERE to buy... I googled alot using different key words but the only 2 sites I've found are antik-group.com and tandys (whish is ok but not exactly what I'm looking for). Please please! tell me where I can find these! Thx alot!!
  11. Hey there, maybe you can help me out! I've spent hours looking for these special hides. I'm in Canada but I don't mind buying in the states if the price is reasonable. Here's the list: - Realistic leopard print Hair on Hide, short hair (found some on PeggySue Also but maybe there's a better place to buy them, Leather Impact also carry some but we can't see the prices, also they only ship via UPS so it's not a good thing for me) - Rainbow Holo Stingray Hide (The Leather Guy used to carry them at a great price but now I only see some on RojéLeather for 3x the cost, 125$!!! per hide) - Brown and Turquoise embossed gator cowhide (I only found it on Springfield website, is there another place where I can buy it?) - Tan Embossed gator or croc cowhide (I'm looking for that special Tan used in horse tack making like Reinsman and Alamo use. Pic shows all the Tan samples that were sent to me by Tundra and PeggySue and none of them matches my Alamo strap and reinsman set (the tan I'm looking for)) - any other cool print hides, I'm looking for original and colorful stuff for overlays and inlays in horse tack. Thank!!!
  12. I bought this saddle 3 years ago and it's in good condition, but even if I keep cleaning it, there's still a lot of dirt and sweat caked in the tooling. It looks like the person before me used glycerin saddle soap to clean it many times but didn't removed the excess, and added layers of neatsfoot oils over it. It created a sticky surface and 30yrs later, the mix became hard and quite impossible to dissolve. I spent hours, toothbrush in hand, rubbing my fully tooled saddle with every possible saddle cleaning products (and warm water alone) but still, we can see the nasty dirt caked in. But this week, I used Fiebing's Deglazer on an old breastcollar and all the caked in dirt came off easily!!! Tho, it also removes the dye and the finish... Here comes the thing. I plan to 'deglaze' my saddle to clean it deeply once and for all! But the problem is, that I don't know what dye and finish to use after. Since It's a saddle I ride in, I want the dye to stay on the leather, not on my jeans (the saddle color is dark oil). I don't want a glossy look neither, like some finish does. I want a natural look, just like quality saddles (shiny leather is for cheap imported saddles). I'd like to be able to still use neatsfoot oil and aussie wax without messing it. I don't want to use Eco-flo stuff since it's not tough enough for a saddle... maybe fiebing's pro oil dye? or just their regular dye? Thanks a million for this precious help!!!
  13. Hi! I've been making custom horse tack for 3yrs now and I'm also in Canada. I can make the headstall for you. You can check out my gallery, I don't have much pics there but still, if you like my stuff we can work something out. -Susie, Uniqu'Orne Creations
  14. I'm working on my webpage right now but if you have a facebook, you can check out my tack there. link to my FB album: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.270859229613380.73277.100000679146279&type=3 I've been creating custom tooled and hand-painted tack for 3yrs. I'm in Canada also. If you like my stuff we can work something out. I make my own custom Swarovski crystal conchos. -Susie, Uniqu'Orne Creations.
  15. It's hard to explain... I want to add small metal spots to my creations just like you see on the picture, with a lining on the back to hide the spots prongs. All the leather layers are machine sewn together, but you must set the spots BEFORE you sew the leather liner, logically. So, the last step would be to sew. If you see, the thread is very close to the spots, following the same line. Is it possible to do that with a sewing machine? (I don't have a sewing machine, I bring my stuff to a cobbler) I'm asking because, of what I know, the 'foot' of the machine (I dont know how you call that) must sit on flat leather in order to sew correctly! But with all those spots, you cant lower the foot! Please if you can figure out how it's done, tell me!! Thank you so much! (P.S.: I'm also wondering that type of spots they use, because if you look closely, you see small rounds shapes thru the lining, but prongs make little triangle teeth shapes. maybe they use rivet-like spots?)
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