skipj Report post Posted February 17, 2009 Does anyone else have a problem using a maul? When I use it for stamping, it seems to move the stamp in my grip, I guess, so the impression is offset from where I want it. It's one of Barry Kings. I notice this when I'm trying to do basket weave staming along a guide line. The impression ends up below the line I was holding it on. Is this the wrong tool for this job? SkipJ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted February 17, 2009 Does anyone else have a problem using a maul? When I use it for stamping, it seems to move the stamp in my grip, I guess, so the impression is offset from where I want it. It's one of Barry Kings. I notice this when I'm trying to do basket weave staming along a guide line. The impression ends up below the line I was holding it on. Is this the wrong tool for this job?SkipJ does your b/w tool have a rounded striking surface? That may need to be squared off. Using a maul or a mallet with the rounded head tools tend to slip and give a double impression or one that's not located properly. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skipj Report post Posted February 17, 2009 Thanks Rawhide, I don't remember having a problem with my old rawhide "hammer". Seems like I can't hit stamping tools or punches squarely with the maul. Perhaps it just takes practice, or I'm holding it wrong? The stamp is a new Barry King they seem square. SkipJ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
badger Report post Posted February 17, 2009 Skip, When striking the tool with the maul, look at the tool's business end where it meets the leather and not at the tool striking point. If you look at the striking point, you can miss-hit with a maul. Relax and let your natural co-ordiantion work for you. use the Force......... Cheers, Karl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
King's X Report post Posted February 17, 2009 Does anyone else have a problem using a maul? When I use it for stamping, it seems to move the stamp in my grip, I guess, so the impression is offset from where I want it. It's one of Barry Kings. I notice this when I'm trying to do basket weave staming along a guide line. The impression ends up below the line I was holding it on. Is this the wrong tool for this job?SkipJ Skip I own a BK tapered maul and Mark V (Reg) maul. I found (my opinion) when I use my BK maul, I really don't need to watch where my elbow is positioned, but when I use my Mark V, I have to make sure that my elblow is up and parallel with the tool. It is what I teach in my basic carving class and what was taught to me. Try it out? Greetings from Round Rock, Texas Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UKRay Report post Posted February 17, 2009 Skip,When striking the tool with the maul, look at the tool's business end where it meets the leather and not at the tool striking point. If you look at the striking point, you can miss-hit with a maul. Relax and let your natural co-ordiantion work for you. use the Force......... Cheers, Karl I'm with Obi Wan, all the way! Having just switched from rawhide mallet to maul I wouldn't ever go back but I have to say the first couple of weeks were a bit tense... If I were you, Skipj, I'd find myself a heap of scrap leather and beat the bejazus out of it for a couple of weeks until you have got your eye in... If it doesn't work for you, just remember that I'd kill for a Barry King maul and paying to ship yours to the UK wouldn't be a problem at all! LOL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted February 18, 2009 I'm with Obi Wan, all the way! Having just switched from rawhide mallet to maul I wouldn't ever go back but I have to say the first couple of weeks were a bit tense... If I were you, Skipj, I'd find myself a heap of scrap leather and beat the bejazus out of it for a couple of weeks until you have got your eye in... If it doesn't work for you, just remember that I'd kill for a Barry King maul and paying to ship yours to the UK wouldn't be a problem at all! LOL ***** I TOLD YOU THAT YOU WOULD LIKE IT........... I HAVE FINALLY ACCUMLATED 3 ............LIGHT WEIGHT....... MEDIUM AND HEAVY WEIGHT. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flathat4life Report post Posted February 18, 2009 I'm with Obi Wan, all the way! Having just switched from rawhide mallet to maul I wouldn't ever go back but I have to say the first couple of weeks were a bit tense... If I were you, Skipj, I'd find myself a heap of scrap leather and beat the bejazus out of it for a couple of weeks until you have got your eye in... If it doesn't work for you, just remember that I'd kill for a Barry King maul and paying to ship yours to the UK wouldn't be a problem at all! LOL i agree with UKRay 100%.. get a pile of scrap and stamp away... not only will it help you get used to the maul but it will also giv you practice with the stamps... when i first started out, a old guy in the local saddle shop gave me two pretty larg boxs of skirting scrap... i think i only lasted me 2 weeks but it was the best thing that could of happened to me.. just bought a 2lb. tapperd head maul from Wayne Jueskie(spelling???) for basket/ geogromic/ border stamping.. fixing to order a lighter one from bary for bevling/small stamp and a larger one for punches/ big baskets/ Geos. As its been said above by others, you will never regret getting the maul or go back to the mallet...dont cross over, stick with the maul tell you get the hang of it.. it only took me a couple hours to get past the ocwardness... After a week or so it got to where i didnt have to think about it and now its just second nature.... Jed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skipj Report post Posted February 18, 2009 Thanks all for the suggestions. I guess there is no "Dumbo" magic feather that will solve my problem, just practice. Would a foil hat help? SkipJ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Windy Report post Posted February 18, 2009 Thanks all for the suggestions. I guess there is no "Dumbo" magic feather that will solve my problem, just practice. Would a foil hat help?SkipJ Skip, Foil hats are not only stylish as all get out, they will help you learn to use the maul twice a quick. I have found that foil hats help whenever one is in need of special assistance. Remember that when making your foil hat the shiny side goes out. If you put the shiny side in the government can read your thoughts.Oh and do not use the cheap foil when making your hat as it does not contain enough aluminum to block all the penetrating rays. WINDY ............STYLING ALL OVER TOWN WITH HIS FOIL HAT Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gtwister09 Report post Posted February 18, 2009 Skip, The squaring off of the top of the tools has already been mentioned. One of the things that I have done for several people to is cut a flat on side of the maul. You could also place it flat on a grinder. Usually it winds up being a little over a 1.5 - 2 square inches. After they got used to the maul all of them so far have stopped using it but it helped them get started. Regards, Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted February 18, 2009 Skip, A few other things from training myself, a kid, and two wives. Don't treat it like a hammer, just let it fall. No swinging of the arm to start with at least. Keep the handle crosswise to your forearm axis and kind of twist your wrist and let it rock. As you get the aim down, then you can add a little more force if necessary for a bigger stamp. After a while you will have a couple weights of mauls if you use a lot of different stamps. Keep your elbow in closer to your body. Some people can rest their elbow on a surface, I have to keep it by my side. This became especially important after I messed up my right rotator cuff. Set your stool or chair to the most comfortable height for the bench, nothing will mess my aim up more and make me miss than the shorter stool and then not hitting the stamp flush. I also fatigue a lot faster. For really severe cases and as the staff knows during times of computer server issues here, I have a tin foil union suit - that seems to help too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bree Report post Posted February 18, 2009 Bruce hit the nail on the head. I use different weight mauls for different tasks. I want to pretty much let the maul fall and allow the weight to accomplish what arm force would have accomplished. The reason why I have different weights is because different tasks require different amounts of force. Choose the right maul weight, aim it, and let the tool do the work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skipj Report post Posted February 18, 2009 (edited) Thanks for all the helpful suggestions. I've been holding the maul perpendicular to my forearm, as I seen other folks do, but I'm trying to hit the stamp, rather than just using the maul's weight. I've broken my marble stone twice so perhaps I'm hitting it too hard? Perhaps someone could show their foil hats so I can make one correctly. Is it like the hat the guy on Monty Python, whose brain hurts, wears? SkipJ Edited February 18, 2009 by skipj Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gtwister09 Report post Posted February 18, 2009 I've broken my marble stone twice so perhaps I'm hitting it too hard?SkipJ Skip, There are several maul related posts that have been discussed. They discuss usage, position, weights, configurations as related to balance and so forth. As far as breaking "marble"...well marble is not the best surface to tool upon and especially if it is a thin piece as well. Granite works a whole lot better. There are posts on using headstones and surface plates with many different ideas where to get some granite from like monument places, counter top shops, quarries and so on. Enco, Grizzly and several other places have been mentioned as places to get surface plates (B grade with a ledge works great). No foil hats here Regards, Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skipj Report post Posted February 18, 2009 Ben, Thanks for the info re: marble. I've since gotten a granite surface plate from Grizzle I use. I just suspect I'm also hitting the stamp too hard. Perhaps the leather isn't wet enough to take a good impresion when I stamp. I always have had a problem casing my leather. Have trouble carving and don't know if it's the casing, my swivel knife or tough leather :-) SkgnJ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gtwister09 Report post Posted February 19, 2009 Skip, There are many posts on casing, techniques, formulas, swivel knife techniques, stropping methods and so on that can help you. Regards, Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Double U Leather Report post Posted February 21, 2009 I'm going to throw my 2 cents worth in here as well. I just got done doing some basket stamping on a guitar strap and was thinking about the posts regarding the use of a maul. That being said, I was trying to be conscious of how I was holding the maul, etc. The one thing that I noticed more than anything else was that I hold my maul more like a rock than a hammer....meaning I actually grip the maul part instead of the the handle. It seems I have more control that way, and it doesn't cripple me to stamp for hours at a time. Anyway, just something that popped into my brain. Good luck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
