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oldskool

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About oldskool

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    New Member

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    small goods
  • Interested in learning about
    Tips, tricks, contacts
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  1. Any idea if either of those are "waterproof?"
  2. oldskool

    Lacing Pony?

    Just ordered the Sit-N-Stitch. Should be here shortly. Thanks.
  3. oldskool

    Lacing Pony?

    I have seen the standard Tandy lacing ponies and they are just not that high of quality in my mind. I have seen the plans for building your own, but have not had the time to do it. Are there any sellers here or elsewhere who sell these higher quality, handmade lacing ponies, or something similar?
  4. Hello, I have tried a couple different creasers with differing amounts of happiness on my part. I have tried the basic plastic one that comes on the end of the plastic burnisher/creaser/folder you can get at Tandy: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/8116-00.aspx That one actually works well, but the pressure and repetition required to get the crease I want ends up melting it and flattening it down so that it is not usable. I picked up a metal version that is adjustable: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/search/searchresults/8072-00.aspx?feature=Product_2&kw=creaser\ I found it terrible to use because it was not as reliable, predictable and controllable as the plastic one. Also, I would like to be able to make a double line crease at one time. So, what out there will give me results like the plastic version, but last longer? Also, what out there has the option for a double crease? I have one of those groovers, but I am not interested in removing surface leather, just burnishing a crease into the leather at the edge.
  5. Hello all. I was buying some contact cement from Tandy that seemed a lot like a rubber cement in terms of consistency. It was waterproof and worked well for me. My supply ran out and when I went to reorder, it was discontinued. Now, the replacement BARGE contact cement is not to my liking at all. It is caustic, stinks to the point of needing to wear a face mask, and seems to harden way too fast, and not always create a long lasting, tight bond that I want. It feels a bit stiff at first and needs to be flexed to soften it up. I need a contact cement that does not make me gag and stink up the leather with a chemical smell. I need it to be highly water resistant. I want it to be strong enough to resist being pulled apart without considerable force being applied. It needs to be flexible, not stiff when it dries. As a note, I do rough up the surfaces of the leather to be bonded. I do apply to both sides and wait for it to get tacky before putting the leather together. I also clamp it down securely and let it sit for plenty of time. So, I don't think it is a user error situation. This I liked: (but was discontinued) TANDY LEATHER TANNERS BOND BARGE CONTACT CEMENT QT #2530-03 These I have tried and not liked: Tanners Bond Water-Based Contact Cement Quart #2529-03 Tanners Bond Craftsman Contact Cement Quart #2525-03 I welcome your suggestions.
  6. That looks great. I have been trying to get a hold of Greyghostgraphics both by phone and email. No response so far. Any suggestions?
  7. I see. I basically only do straight cuts, but still I want to try marking the leather and cutting with a head knife. I would be worried that I wouldn't maintain a perfectly straight edge without the guide.
  8. So, do you think the rotary tool is better than the utility knife with thick razor blade? When cutting with a metal straight edge, do you strongly suggest using a headknife? What are the benefits that would be seen in going with this type of knife over a rotary tool or utility knife?
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