Vergez Blanchard Tools - Help

[chouinardragon]

Hello,

I've been asking about how to hand stitch perfectly over and over again and I still can't not stitch perfectly.

I've been researching and reading many articles about hand stitch techniques. My problems are still not solved.

Let's talk about my hand sewing tools first. and they are all from Vergez Blanchard.

- sewing awl (small size,38 mm, I filed the awl blade into a tear drop shape and shorten it as long as the cooper barrel)

- #10 pricking iron (5 teethes)

- saddler's clamp (the shorter one,105 cm)

- #6 sewing needle (the smallest needle I can find, from Germany)

- 3/35 Barbour Irish linen thread

I am 5 feet and 7 inches and sit on a normal chair when I stitch.

I have problem holding my sewing awl, I don't know how to hold it correctly, I feel uncomfortable while I stitch.

I research this video hundreds of times but still don't know how to hold an awl correctly. When the craftsman place his middle finger on the surface of his clamp, his awl blade tip is almost reaching the leather. When I stitch, the awl blade tip is far away from the leather.

Another problem is how to place the sewing hand on the clamp. The problem is quite complicated because it may caused by many reasons, such as the angle / length of the clamp, the height of my chair, the size of my awl ....

I stitch everyday for an hour for 8 months ... still have terrible stitches. Please help.

My English is poor so that I draw a photo of my problems, maybe that will help you guys to realize where my problems are.

Thanks in advanced.

Chris

Edited January 17, 2013 by chouinardragon

[Trox]

Hi Cris, I too use a lot of Blanchard tools and a French clamp like in the video. I do sew the saddle stitch like in the video. However, I use a very sharp diamond (high polished) awl. I use a pricking wheel to mark my stitches and gouge a stitching line with a grooving tool (grooving compass or other tool). I use # 0 and #1 harness needles with blunt points and both Barbour linen or braided nylon thread.

I advice you to buy Al Stohlmans " the art of hand sewing leather". This is the best book for learning to sew a proper saddle stitch. Very good instructions and drawings by the Grand old master of leather work. No other way to learn this the right way from a book.

The book is a paperback and can be bought on Amazon or Tandy/local leather craft supplier. You need this book, it will take care of the sewing problems you have now. The uniform stitch, where the awl is placed and where it has to come out on the back side etc. How to hold the awl, needles and so on. Buy the book, you wont regret it.

Good luck.

Tor

[simontuntelder]

When you're using the pricking iron, do you punch all the way through or do you just tap it lightly and make the hole using a diamond shaped all?

If you punch all the way through, you should either get a different clamp that sits right in front of you, instead of being tilted to one side. Then you can actually see both sides of what you're sewing. You could also modify your clamp, but that's quite abusive and not a good idea when it's an expensive Blanchard.

If I were you, I would also consider switching to a slightly thicker thread, 18 thickness/weight and possible 2, 3 or 4 ply.

Lastly you can finish off you stitches using a shoemakers hammer (just tap it gently) or use a bone folder.

Having an awl in your hand is a bit uncomfortable, but the handle on your awl, could be too long for your hand. You could have it altered, if you know someone who works with wood. It should be fairly easy cutting the tip off and rounding it again.

And maybe you could take a picture of your stitches. It may not be as bad as you think they are.

Or someone may be able to tell you, what you're doing wrong.

[chouinardragon]

Hi Trox,

Thanks a lot.

I already have "the art of hand sewing leather" but the French style tools are kind of different - the stitch pony/saddler's clamp, the round/flat awl haft.

I have problem holding the flat awl haft, it's kind of smaller, I use a 38 mm awl. When stitch, should the awl blade be parallel to the saddler's clamp?? Do you flatter your awl blade to drop shape? I flattered my awl blade to be thin, does it affect my stitches?

Hi simontuntelder,

Thanks a lot.

I punch the pricking iron slightly instead of punching it all the way through. I use a #10 pricking iron and the 3/18 is kind of bigger, it makes the stitches look like braid. I don't know why, maybe it is because I flatter the awl blade to be very thin, the holds it pierces is very thin,too. I am working on a new awl blade, I will get some photos when I get my new awl.

Thank you, guys. I really appreciate that.

Chris

[Jax]

Hi Chris take a look at this post by one of our other members, its really clear & informative.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=44874

[chouinardragon]

Thank you, Jax