Quick-Draw holster questions

[Regis]

Today, I got an order for a OWB but concealed (under jacket or shirt) holster. The order is for a S&W 627 and came from a competition quick draw guy. He does want it quick draw but, quite flat against the body. We worked out shape, size, height, a little tooling, and cant. My main question is about the inside. His competition holsters look like back-to-back 8/9 oz leather that are immovable. I have to make this one a lot narrower and high through the belt. I'm thinking 7 oz lined with 5 oz and molded much closer & flatter???

On this one, I will not mind re-doing it a time or 2 because I'll be learning a lot. But, I want to get off to good start with right leather and any hints you might have.

Thanks,

Regis

[TwinOaks]

For the high rider, I think you'll have to concentrate on the fit of the holster to the barrel. Top should be well molded, of course, but for the quick draw aspect, you might consider sort of a 'split' top end. The molding of the holster, and reinforcements, keep it in shape and help retain the revolver, but once the draw starts, it's almost a touch free path to clear the holster. You didn't mention if there would be any type of retention device, like a thumb strap.

Somewhere in the 'net, I saw an IWB for a snubbie that basically held just the barrel in the pants, while keeping the frame and cylinder above the belt, locked into a plastic contraption. Once the frame released from the 'lock' it was a free draw. I'm thinkin' that's kinda, sorta, what you're looking for.....but in leather.

Now the only question is...where do we get the itty bitty maker's stamp that says "Leatherworker.net Thinktank Conglomerate"

[Randyc]

Regis

Is this holster for CCW only or a combination of CCW/Competition?

Randy (contributing to the conglomerate)

[Regis]

Regis

Is this holster for CCW only or a combination of CCW/Competition?

Randy (contributing to the conglomerate)

I'll have to ask to be sure but, I understood it to be for personal CCW & demonstrations.

Mike,

Thanks for the tip and splitting/lowering the top makes sense.

Edited February 11, 2008 by Regis

[TwinOaks]

Of course, after responding once, I always go back to the OP and see what it was he/she was originally asking.....

You were concerned with the weight of the leather in regards to it's bulk, since you don't want back to back 8-9 oz leather.

I think you're in the realm of reinforced leather here. It doesn't have to be Kydex, but you may consider sandwiching a firm/semi-rigid polymer sheet between the exterior and the lining to help keep shape. Especially around the mouth. I wouldn't recommend using metal ( like milt sparks) b/c you'll be into finding thin and narrow stainless steel spring metal. A polymer ( part of a 3 ring binder cover???) seems like a better choice as you can shape it, and sew to/through it. And.....it's thin enough to sandwich and never tell anyone

Hope that doesn't add to the confusion too much.....

[Regis]

Mike,

No, I hadn't thought of putting a spring/stiffener between the leather & liner. I'll have to experiment with some scrap to get a feel for how well it bends without kinking. This is really going to be a great education piece.

Edited February 11, 2008 by Regis

[fishguy]

Competition quick draw holsters often have a formed metal shell sandwiched between leather, or two layers of really thick leather. They are basically like a bucket that the gun sits in. If you read Bianchi's book he really brings out the antagonisim between retention and quick draw. If you can't get it out quick enough you're screwed, but if its laying in the mud a couple of miles back it dosen't matter how fast you can draw.

[Regis]

.......................... If you can't get it out quick enough you're screwed, but if its laying in the mud a couple of miles back it dosen't matter how fast you can draw.

That's funny but....true. I'm going to meet with him again tomorrow. He has 2 fastdraw holsters that are just as you describe (like leather softdrink cup straped to leg/hip). He said he wants this one flatter for CCW but, absolutely no retention or interference with grip. And no strap (or anythng to keep gun out of the "mud"). He's going to be doing some kind of demo 's with it. I'll know more tomorrow.

Thanks,

Regis

Edited February 13, 2008 by Regis

[Regis]

Met today with my quickdraw customer and am left almost speachless. Looked at several newer and older holsters for both revolver and auto. Learned the difference between the "bucket" style and those with slight and adjustable retention. Modeling this one after one that has retension adjustment screws. Also got to see flaws (broken) holsters & speedloaders. Some of the commercial ones are really crap. He even epoxied (uck) the inside of one because it wasn't lined and the flesh was rough (not even burnished). We're going to work together to make his new holster(s). Great project and I'll be sure to take photo's as I go along.

Regis

[TwinOaks]

Ahh, I hate travelling to areas with no ISPs.....

No retention...hmmmmm. Well, here's an idea: Take the outer piece and wet mold it, complete with all tooling. Fold the top, or reinforce it with a strip of thick hide. Prepare to stitch the front to the back but before you do, add a welt of whatever thickness (like on a knife sheath) needed to eliminate the retention properties of a good holster. Now, you've got a tooled and molded holster that won't hold the gun. If you want some type of minimal security, drop a magnet in the bottom of it. Dye to preferred color and sell for high dollars.

See, I just solved all the problems

The ring binders I mentioned are standard school stuff. They're really nothing more than a plastic folder, but some of them have thicker covers. I'm sure it'll still take a bend if pressed, but it seems pretty durable