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BigJake

My Heritage Splitter/skiver Has Arrived

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I have been doing research on which of the several splitters and skivers that were available would fill my needs. First I want to distinguish between a splitter and a skiver by my definition. A machine with no means to lock the blade adjustment without actually holding it in place with one hand is a skiver. A machine that allows one to lock the blade for a given thickness and then allow both hands to pull the leather thru is a splitter. I wanted a machine that would do both.

The blade on a splitter is of such critical importance that became my focus. The Heritage machine sold by Weaver caught my eye mainly because of the angle of the cutting edge which covered the entire width of the blade. The others machines I considered only had an angle of about half the width of the blade. I'll also add the blade is 1/2" thich at the rear and 1 7/8" in width. The bottom of the blade is flat. I removerd the blade thinking I could improve on it since I am very anal when it comes to a sharp tool. In fact my sharpening routine includes examining the edge with a 10x jewelers loupe. Close examination of the edge appeared to me to be buffed with a polishing wheel and/or stroped. I concluded I could not improve on the edge and reinstalled the blade.

My machinist background and with the measuring instruments I have I made a few checks for blade alignment and found it to be "Spot On" centered over the roller. I am fairly certain this machine is made in China although nothing indicates that on the machine or the packaging. It certainly appears to be a clone of the Osborne 84.

This tool must be bolted down to a substancial table or work bench and I only have veg tanned leather to test but I could pull 3" wide 12 oz thru the machine with one hand and no strain.

I am in no way connected to Weaver Leather other than a wholesale customer and I can honestly say, this machine does everything I needed and would most likely outlast me. I can recommend this 8" skiver without hesitation.

Here is more info:

http://weaverleathersupply.com/Catalog/ItemContent.aspx?ItemNumber=9ADD887DAEE73A1D04140C6721E47EA25A661627496C86A738D031B7BCCC4DA8E43F699FF683B1549E8FB1B3FC21C73C3320BC2D8C2A0D8F51E9090B86C6CC2E387EBDE18D7F1D1FC14D7D5A6DFB3C6FD751B4FA1371D2A742F38410410A078D66BC86778EEFBD6C644A0810351F8B88515258141AD5CCD592DBDC190ADBAC5A

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In the interest of learning I am curious why you feel the edge ground all the way to the rear of the blade is important. I understand the actual angle, but really anything past the cutting edge is a moot point to what was cut.

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Hi Big Jake, thanks for your update on Heritage mod 84 splitter. Intresting defination of the skiver/splitter. Although English is not my native language, I would call them both pull true splitters. Regardless of the means of locking the handle or not. The model 84 are still for sale with CS Osborne and Campbell Randall,who both have produced them for about hundred years now. And made them in the USA too. Like you I also believe that both the Tandy and the Heritage are made in China. The strange thing is that the Tandy model is the most expensive of them and the Heritage is the second most expensive one. They might both be good. However, Why not buy the real deal instead. Have look at the Campbell Randall, it's a real beauty. http://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_143&product_id=13842 priced to 545$. It would be my choice.

Thanks

Tor

Edited by Trox

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When one is considering an edge and how sharp one over the other may be look at a straight razor and how the blade is cut and the long angle. Sharp is a long angle. Now the edge on an axe for example is very thick and the angle is short because the axe is used for chopping and not cutting and must be strong to withstand the forces of chopping. One cannot make the blade of an axe suitable for shaving because of the steep angle of the typical axe blade. Compare the blade of your round knife, is it thick? Is it 1/8" thick, no.... not any I have seen or own, more like 1/16" Sharp is the important factor and you cannot get that with a steep angle of the edge. Look at the edge of a wood plane, is it a steep angle? no it's not. A steep angle is for heavy abuse and heavy force. In my opinion a steep angle means more effort to pull the leather thru. I have a general purpose leather knife made by Osborne with about a 3/4" wide blade with the angle front to back of the blade. It cuts very well. Osborne made it that way.

A shallow angle cuts better than a steep angle pure and simple but your mileage may vary.

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When one is considering an edge and how sharp one over the other may be look at a straight razor and how the blade is cut and the long angle. Sharp is a long angle. Now the edge on an axe for example is very thick and the angle is short because the axe is used for chopping and not cutting and must be strong to withstand the forces of chopping. One cannot make the blade of an axe suitable for shaving because of the steep angle of the typical axe blade. Compare the blade of your round knife, is it thick? Is it 1/8" thick, no.... not any I have seen or own, more like 1/16" Sharp is the important factor and you cannot get that with a steep angle of the edge. Look at the edge of a wood plane, is it a steep angle? no it's not. A steep angle is for heavy abuse and heavy force. In my opinion a steep angle means more effort to pull the leather thru. I have a general purpose leather knife made by Osborne with about a 3/4" wide blade with the angle front to back of the blade. It cuts very well. Osborne made it that way.

A shallow angle cuts better than a steep angle pure and simple but your mileage may vary.

Any way we could see some good close ups of it?

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Any way we could see some good close ups of it?

Pretty good image in post #1 of this thread. Click on the link and zoom the image. Also a video.

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OK, but your example is not a good one. Splitters have straight ground blades where razors use a hollow grind. In either case, this is apples to oranges. The heritage blade may be ground to the rear of the blank but it is also 1/2" thick and we think chinese made. The CR blade is 3/8" thick hardened tool steel made in USA. Anyway I layed a straight edge on the ground angle of the CR then measured the intersection at the back of the blade. The CR blade blank would be .6" thick if the factory angle was carried to the back of the blade. The blade is 2" wide. I dont know the math to get the exact answers but I am betting the angle is within a couple degrees if not the same once the math was done to equalize blade dimensions. I doubt either manufacturer would give us the metallurgy data needed to do an apple to apple comparison for edge longevity.

The important thing is you have a splitter that does it job and makes you happy. Grats. :) May it pay for itself many times over.

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BigJake

I was just curious if the one you got looked as good as the picture that Weaver shows. Too many times I've purchased tools from a catalog or website based on the pictures and when said tool arrives its not nearly as good as the pictures, Osborne bag punches are a good example, pictures show a nice polished barrel and sharp cutting edge, what I got looked like it was shaped with a brick. anyway glad you're happy with yours.

Edited by J Hayes

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I am also a happy owner of the Heritage skiver.

I did feel that I could improve on the factory edge. I lapped my blade on my granite surface plate using 3M polishing papers. It took me all day to get both sides of the blade to a mirror polish. Now the thing cuts 7-8 oz veg-tan, latigo and bridle leathers with ease.

I don't know the country of origin of the Heritage splitters but I'm not the least bit concerned about the longevity of the blade. It's a very heavy chunk of steel and I know it's hardened because I worked it all day. To me it was worth both the expense and the time spent working on the blade. I'd buy it again if my shop burned down. Now I laugh every time I see an ad for a Tandy skiver.

Thanks,

Michelle

Edited by silverwingit

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