Second Holster

[JeffChastain]

So, I started my second holster with proper tooling leather. (I made a few with Tandy farmer's bundle leather before I realized I was extremely wrong) I made myself some boning tools by cutting up one of those plastic cutting boards, and sanding down the edges into shapes I thought were useful. I used a Ruger SR40C for this holster. The particular firearm doesn't have particularly deep lines on it, so I decided to bone this one differently from my last, and it came out better than I expected. There are a few noticable boo-boo's, but overall I'm pleased. Also, the stitches don't look near as terrible as this picture shows them. I took this pic with my Ipod.

But, my stitches aren't as clean as I want them to be, by a long shot. When I back stitch, it always looks bad in that area. I'm using artificial sinew, and I can't seem to get the backstitch to hold very tight. Should I be using something different? Also, what's the secret to getting extremely clean handstitched lines? There's something I'm missing.

I've got thick skin, and critiques are why I posted this. I want to get better! Thanks guys.

Also, I realize the firearm isn't molded very straight in the pocket. This little pistol is thicker than what I'm used to molding, so I gave it some extra room in the stitch lines, and I think I gave it a little too much wiggle room. I didn't notice when I began boning that the firearm was sitting a little crooked. If you'll look in the bottom right hand corner under the trigger guard area you'll see what I mean about my back-stitching looking rough.

[katsass]

Well, Jeff, I don't profess to be an expert on stitching, but I think I do a fair job at it. First off, I will not use artificial sinew unless I'm making something specifically to appear to be very primitive. Use waxed linen thread. The stuff can be obtained from many places (including Springfield Leather) in nice little spools for a pittance. It will come in white, dark(ish) brown or black.(I personally will not go anywhere near Tandy anymore) Artificial sinew is not all that good for stitching IMO, it seems more useful in 'crafty' type things. and waxed linen has been used for 100's of years (as can be seen in the book 'Packing Iron') and holds up well. You can also get spools of 'Nyletex' (sp) which is a good synthetic thread often used. To use, I always re-wax the stuff and run it through my hands a few times to remove excess wax - even though it comes pre waxed - don't ask why, it's just the way I was taught. You should use a stitching gouge prior to stitching, so that the thread lays slightly below the surface of the leather when done. This avoids abrasion of the thread over the upcoming years. It looks also that your stitching holes are pretty big. I use a 'stitching awl", also called a 'diamond awl' or 'saddler's awl'. It's called a diamond awl due to the blade shape. A round scratch awl CAN be used, and also a stitching punch, but both are generally not really very good for real stitching IMO. First, gouge the line you wish to stitch. You'll need an adjustable stitching gouge which has a guide on it to keep the line an even distance from the edge of your work, and a free-hand pencil shaped gouge for other areas. After the gouge, I dampen the leather slightly and use an 'overstitch' tool which will mark the stitch length - a #6 is a good all-around size. (6 stitches per inch) I now poke stitching holes with my awl. My awl is slightly less that 1/10 inch wide - many are wider, but I prefer a narrow awl. Many folks poke a hole and make a stitch - I poke a pot-load of holes first, the go to stitching - it's up to you. When done stitching, I dampen the thing slightly - again - and run the ovestitch tool right over the stitch line - too 'set' the stitching (that's why it's called an overstitch). After all of this being said, you might try to get hold of Al Stohlman's book "How To Sew Leather" to read how it's done by a REAL expert. Hope this helps a bit. Just remember to just take your time. Mike

Edited September 15, 2012 by katsass

[JeffChastain]

Hey Katsass,

Thanks for the reply. I am actually using a stitch groover, and running over my grooves twice to get it a little deeper. I think you're on to something about the holes I've drilled being a bit too big. I think that's why the stitching looks raised, because the holes aren't holding the stitches tight. Right now I'm grooving the front, but not the backside, because I haven't been completely successful in getting the holes to line up perfectly on the back. If I'm going to continue drilling, I need to use my drill press to ensure straight holes. I've been thinking of trying out an Awl. I've not used one yet mainly because it seems like it is very time consuming. But, if it will make the holsters look better, it has to be worth it. Thanks for giving me a step by step on how to get it done, also. You've been a big help in both threads I've posted.

Attached is a picture of the finished product, minus the top coat. Still waiting for the dye to dry. I used Eco Flo Dark Cocoa brown. It's way closer to black than brown.

[katsass]

Hey Katsass,

Thanks for the reply. I am actually using a stitch groover, and running over my grooves twice to get it a little deeper. I think you're on to something about the holes I've drilled being a bit too big. I think that's why the stitching looks raised, because the holes aren't holding the stitches tight. Right now I'm grooving the front, but not the backside, because I haven't been completely successful in getting the holes to line up perfectly on the back. If I'm going to continue drilling, I need to use my drill press to ensure straight holes. I've been thinking of trying out an Awl. I've not used one yet mainly because it seems like it is very time consuming. But, if it will make the holsters look better, it has to be worth it. Thanks for giving me a step by step on how to get it done, also. You've been a big help in both threads I've posted.

Attached is a picture of the finished product, minus the top coat. Still waiting for the dye to dry. I used Eco Flo Dark Cocoa brown. It's way closer to black than brown.

Jeff, IF, and I say "IF" because it generally is not the best way to do things, but IF you are going to drill stitching holes, you need to drill LITTLE BITTY holes -- smaller than 1/16" as so many do -- thinking that they are small enough. Nothing larger than a 3/64" drill bit. Drill your holes then open them with a stitching (diamond) awl. NOW, this small of a bit will NOT do well in a drill press - the machine will not turn up fast enough to stabilize the bit, so it will catch and 'wander' all over hell in leather (and most materials) and especially on heavier welts. Use a rotary (Dremel) type tool. I only use a drill when teaching beginners (that will put up with me). I have them drill a series of dinky holes, basically 'pilot' holes, place the leather in a pony and then open each hole (properly) with an awl. It's a drill some - open some - stitch some - drill some, etc. What happens is that eventually the student just goes beyond the drilled holes and begins to punch the marked spot with the awl. Then, he's off and running. AGAIN, IF you drill stitching holes, find a 3/64" bit and use a Dremel type tool. If you don't have one - you can get an inexpensive rotary tool for under $15 at Harbor Freight on sale (I just looked it up). One more thing - a smart lady here on the forum once said a very intelligent thing, and I paraphrase: 'leatherwork is not for those looking for instant gratification'. I say it a bit differently; "slow the hell down and take your damned time' - maybe that's why I have few students, and why I was labeled a grumpy old man. BUT, those that think I'm grumpy should have met the old man that taught me. In comparison I'm a sweet, lovable, old grandpa. . Mike

P.S. I don't generally groove the backside of my work.

Edited September 16, 2012 by katsass

[$$hobby]

So, I started my second holster with proper tooling leather. (I made a few with Tandy farmer's bundle leather before I realized I was extremely wrong) I made myself some boning tools by cutting up one of those plastic cutting boards, and sanding down the edges into shapes I thought were useful. I used a Ruger SR40C for this holster. The particular firearm doesn't have particularly deep lines on it, so I decided to bone this one differently from my last, and it came out better than I expected. There are a few noticable boo-boo's, but overall I'm pleased. Also, the stitches don't look near as terrible as this picture shows them. I took this pic with my Ipod.

But, my stitches aren't as clean as I want them to be, by a long shot. When I back stitch, it always looks bad in that area. I'm using artificial sinew, and I can't seem to get the backstitch to hold very tight. Should I be using something different? Also, what's the secret to getting extremely clean handstitched lines? There's something I'm missing.

I've got thick skin, and critiques are why I posted this. I want to get better! Thanks guys.

Also, I realize the firearm isn't molded very straight in the pocket. This little pistol is thicker than what I'm used to molding, so I gave it some extra room in the stitch lines, and I think I gave it a little too much wiggle room. I didn't notice when I began boning that the firearm was sitting a little crooked. If you'll look in the bottom right hand corner under the trigger guard area you'll see what I mean about my back-stitching looking rough.

your 2nd holster isnt bad imo.

one thing you have to remember is that its a learning experience. every project you make, you will learn something. im not into the crease lines and stuff on my holsters, i like them plain-jane. but to each his own.

i started out using cotton thread (flax?) for sewing but moved onto nylon thread. i used the flax? since i could dye it any color i wanted/needed at the time. but after a while, i decided to use nylon since it doesnt rot. i get the nylon in different size threads to use on different projects.

afa the stitching goes, you may want to invest in the diamond/saddlers awl. imo, it looks the best when used correctly. sometimes you need to use a powertools like a drill, but thats the last thing i will use. if your blade is sharp you shoulnt have much problems with what youre doing/making.

also, as mentioned the "How to sew leather" is a good book. but i would also recommned Stohlmans book on "how to make holsters" its a large format w/pattenrs and stuff. IT will cover just about all you will ever want to do w/holsters and then some. I used it as my guide to make my first holster and i still refer to it.

[JeffChastain]

Many, many thanks for the insight Katsass and $$hobby. I appreciate that you guys take the time to go into detail for a new guy. I will be taking your advice. My next purchase will be a diamond awl. Recommendation on size?

[katsass]

Many, many thanks for the insight Katsass and $hobby. I appreciate that you guys take the time to go into detail for a new guy. I will be taking your advice. My next purchase will be a diamond awl. Recommendation on size?

Jeff, a I have said, my favorite one is about 1/10" (.-097") wide and about 1 1/4" long. Most are probably wider but a bit of work with a stone will take care of that, just get a decent one. Mike

[renegadelizard]

Mikes awl is what, 30 years old?...and still going strong....i got one from springfield..its a hair wider than Mikes but does an okay job....sharpening this little blades is still a mystery to me...i changed the angles on mine somehow, but it is still serviceable....im like Mike, i punch a butt load of holes, then stitch...i lay my piece down flat on 4 layers of cork board and punch away, this helps keep the holes vertical...after i punch the holes, sometimes ill groove the back...depending on the type of holster...for pouch type holsters that i premark the holes on both sides for (when there isnt enough leather to glue effectively) ill stitch groove the inside of the leather...this helps with not snagging the needle so much while trying to hold the holster closed and sewing at the same time...good luck and keep at it..your looking good...watch particles videos...and heed mikes advice..they both make incredibly fine holsters...

don