Leather Casing for a Hip Flask?

[Ozmeath]

Hi folks,

My first post and hello to all. I see there's incedible talent here and could really use advice. My field is silversmithing and I'm a newbie at this leather caper. The few simple projects I've worked on turned out OK but it's a steep learning curve!

My current job is restoring an old hip flask I picked up from an antique shop. Here's some photo's of what's supposed to look like:

The leather piece on top had corroded away. It was quite brittle (it's from about 1880) and it's fallen away. It looks to me like it need to be glued then stretched on. I don't mind stitching it if it's not too chunky. I have to idea what size it's needs to be before I stretch the piece on to the flask.

So basically, how do I make it?! I'd me most grateful for any and all advice.

Cheers.

[Jim]

Well Oz, this is one of those projects that teases the mind and strains the brain. That being said, if that fellow did it - SO CAN I! (Keep those words on your lips.)

First off, I believe that's pig skin on the flask. Pig was used alot in them thar days (and still is) due to its toughness and flexibility. That works in your favor especialy being as it needs to be "encouraged" in to place on the flask.

Now, enough history and back to the matter at hand. The new leather will need to have most of the "stretch" removed so that the leather won't relax around the flask once in place. This can be done by soaking the leather and then stretching it out on a piece of plywood by using 12 penny nails to hold it along the edges. Once dry, remove the leather and flex it in you hands untill any stiffness is removed.

Now the fun part - fitting the leather to the flask. This can be done with the aid of a Template that's made to fit, BUT - making said template could eat up more time than it's worth. So, another option would be to fit the leather to the flask as you go. I've done this, so it's not as hard as it seems. The trick is to start large and trim as needed. This works better if the leather is wet so it will stretch as needed around those shoulders!

Once both sides of the leather covering are formed and trimmed, you can then carefully stitch them up (by hand) making any adjustments needed as you go. Then, re-wet the leather and slip it onto the flask. It may take a couple of tries to get it just right, but that's the price we pay in restorations.

Even being new to leather, you can do this. Remember - if I did, so can you! Below is an example of a powder flask covered in buckskin.

I hope this helps and if you have any question, feel free to holler at me.

Jim

Edited September 11, 2009 by Jim

[Ozmeath]

Well Oz, this is one of those projects that teases the mind and strains the brain. That being said, if that fellow did it - SO CAN I! (Keep those words on your lips.)

First off, I believe that's pig skin on the flask. Pig was used alot in them thar days (and still is) due to its toughness and flexibility. That works in your favor especialy being as it needs to be "encouraged" in to place on the flask.

Now, enough history and back to the matter at hand. The new leather will need to have most of the "stretch" removed so that the leather won't relax around the flask once in place. This can be done by soaking the leather and then stretching it out on a piece of plywood by using 12 penny nails to hold it along the edges. Once dry, remove the leather and flex it in you hands untill any stiffness is removed.

Now the fun part - fitting the leather to the flask. This can be done with the aid of a Template that's made to fit, BUT - making said template could eat up more time than it's worth. So, another option would be to fit the leather to the flask as you go. I've done this, so it's not as hard as it seems. The trick is to start large and trim as needed. This works better if the leather is wet so it will stretch as needed around those shoulders!

Once both sides of the leather covering are formed and trimmed, you can then carefully stitch them up (by hand) making any adjustments needed as you go. Then, re-wet the leather and slip it onto the flask. It may take a couple of tries to get it just right, but that's the price we pay in restorations.

Even being new to leather, you can do this. Remember - if I did, so can you! Below is an example of a powder flask covered in buckskin.

I hope this helps and if you have any question, feel free to holler at me.

Jim

Jim thanks for the response mate.

I followed you up to the point of "Once both sides of the leather covering are formed and trimmed...". Do you suggest stitching both sholders? It makes sense to but I'm just checking. Remember the flask is heavy glass and can handle any stress the leather could give it through shrinking (I imagine so). Will I need to glue it to help to stitch it? I was aslo curious as to percentage a piece of hide will shrink after being wet, that is if you don't nail it down (nice suggestion btw).

Also not sure what stitch to use. I was thinking a figure 8 with two needles.

Interesting you used a powder flask as example. The company that made the flask, James Dixon and Son, also made powder flasks. It's an olde Flask =]

Thanks for indulging the new kid.

Oz.

Edited September 15, 2009 by Ozmeath

[Jim]

I followed you up to the point of "Once both sides of the leather covering are formed and trimmed...". Do you suggest stitching both sholders? It makes sense to but I'm just checking. Remember the flask is heavy glass and can handle any stress the leather could give it through shrinking (I imagine so).

You're right, I should have made that more clear. After the sides are formed, simply leave about 3/16" extra for overlap for the seam when you trim them up. If using a 2 - 3 ounce pig skin leather, you can stitch the two pieces together inside out using a lock stitch or saddle stitch and then trim up to about 1/8" from the seam. This will help the sewn seam lay a little flatter once the cover is placed on the flask.

By sewing them together first, you can then fit the cover on the flask to see if you need any adjustments. I won't kid you, this is going the be a task to get the fit just right, especially around the cases shoulders. But, the pig skin will stretch and flex enough during the wet fitting. The key is to stretch the leather around the flask and then tie it off on the opposite side until dry. You may have to do this two or three times while fitting the same piece so to get it fitted all the way around as desired.

If you need me to, I can make some skethes of what I've described to help you understand what I mean.

Will I need to glue it to help to stitch it? I was aslo curious as to percentage a piece of hide will shrink after being wet, that is if you don't nail it down (nice suggestion btw).

Tanned leather doesn't tend to skrink as much as you might think. Especially Chrome Tanned (ie - pig skin.) So I wouldn't be worried about shrinkage.

It wouldn't hurt to glue the two pieces in a couple of places just to begin the stitching. The trouble with custom fitted pieces like this is they are odd shaped and gluing all the way around may prove difficult to keep everything lined up while gluing. Did that make sense?

Also not sure what stitch to use. I was thinking a figure 8 with two needles.

Ah, the Baseball Stitch. That too could be a good way to join the two pieces as they go on the flask. The leather would be dry and you can use two glover's needles and a very light weight thread. Now that there are two options - all you have to do is figure out which would be the best way to go.

If you nee anythig, don't hesitate to holler at me.

Jim