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About Double Daddy
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- Birthday 09/09/1976
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Gender
Male
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Location
N.E. Georgia
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Interests
American political and social history, homesteading skills, technical crafts and trades, family genealogy.
LW Info
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Leatherwork Specialty
Gunleather & accessories
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Interested in learning about
Holster/Sheath related leatherwork
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Price Comparison: Fiebing's Neatsfoot Oil
Double Daddy replied to BigDogPaul1962's topic in Suppliers
Here's the direct Amazon link to the Farnam NFO (not a compound): https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/9DE069A2-2F42-4600-9929-AF4F5CD62B8C/search?ref_=ast_bln&terms=neatsfoot oil -
Double Daddy started following Curing leather in the oven, Price Comparison: Fiebing's Neatsfoot Oil, kinda of an opinion thing but asking anyway and and 4 others
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Price Comparison: Fiebing's Neatsfoot Oil
Double Daddy replied to BigDogPaul1962's topic in Suppliers
Appreciate the OP's extensive research and price comparisons...most helpful! I'm still working thru my current jug of local Tractor Supply-acquired Fiebing's 100% NFO...this post prompted me to do some shopping/price comparison of my own...came across this on one of BigDogPaul's online sources (Amazon): Might give the smaller jug a try next to see how it works out... -
kinda of an opinion thing but asking anyway
Double Daddy replied to ToddW's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
I've made a holster or three for Glocks (and other polymer frame handguns) that were not black...but in similar fashion to what Dwight pointed out above, most of mine have been dyed black leather with either matching or contrasting white thread. That said, I don't reckon there are any set rules about colors, holsters, etc. I did have that one feller who wanted a holster for his (gulp!) Hi-Point 9mm...it too was black and LH, t'boot! By my estimation...with time and materials, the holster was worth at least twice the retail cost of his weapon of choice. He could/would not be swayed towards an Uncle Mike's Walmart Special and didn't seem to mind my price (too much anyways) and has since came back several times for belts and guitar straps. What's that saying about some folks and their money? For a very decent visual side-by-side comparison of black vs. "not black" leather on a Glock handgun, check out this thread started by another leatherworker in the forums: -
Need Recommendations for Manual Clicker Press
Double Daddy replied to Stratton's topic in Leather Machinery
I considered one of the Vevor clicker presses - I had been using a modified 1-ton arbor press for clicking (mounted to the bench betwixt a widened plywood base using metal plates to "spread" the pressure load on the cutting pad over said base)...but it wasn't getting it done anymore. My hesitation over the Vevor was pretty much as you stated: uneven pressure/results front to back when clicking out items. I just endured the 1-ton for a bit longer, saved up my cereal box tops and bought a 4-ton press...no regrets. -
Need Recommendations for Manual Clicker Press
Double Daddy replied to Stratton's topic in Leather Machinery
If budget isn't an issue, BuckleGuy just came out with a new, floor mounted 12-ton manual press ($3300 plus freight)...they also have 4-ton bench mounted models for less https://www.buckleguy.com/clicker-press/ I bought my 4-ton elsewhere (same item and basic price as BG because they were out of stock at the time)...it's a handy thing to have for appropriate sized items that need cutting out (about 8.75"x11.75" work area)...also does well for stamp embossing or pushing smaller cutting dies thru leather as needed. I had no need (or room) for one of the larger floor mount models at this time. -
I use sheep sheering (I buy it in bulk quantity just for this purpose and for dying large pieces when I don't have the capacity to dip them)...only apply pure neatsfoot oil (not that compound stuff) to the hair side like Dwight said above, never the fleshy/split side...that side is WAY too thirsty for oil.
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Can I dye brown nylon thread black?
Double Daddy replied to DeWayne Hayes's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
Sharp looking holster, both in design and color choices (dye & thread). I can absolutely see it only getting better looking as it "ages in"...such is the beauty of leather. Thanks for sharing! -
I use Denatured Alcohol for when I need to reduce my dyes...and you ain't kiddin' either about making sure the lid is screwed on tight before mixing. I keep clear graduated measuring cups on hand just for this (one could probably get them on line but I have a bunch left over from my days of doing tub/tile refinishing)...pour what's required of each component into clean pickle/olive/mason jars, seal it up tight, swirl it around first...then go to shaking. I label and keep the reduced mixtures on hand either for dipping or for wide-area dye work via pieces of shearing or airbrush.
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Doc - See the last post in this thread - To the OP - you can use the heat emitting lamps, as Doc pointed out...they work great (I built a drying/"hot" box in the attached thread). A person could make their cabinet's workings as simple or complex as their mechanical aptitude allows. It's the temperature that you are after. Good luck!
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Several cutting tools stay on my bench. First, your historically (and not crazy expensive) handy utility knife like Mr. Dwight illustrated above (it gets used for long edge work, general cutting, etc). Next, I have a strap cutter for belts and any straps I might need AFTER I get a straight edge established with the piece of aluminum and aforementioned utility knife (hide is clamped to the work bench under the aluminum). Finally, I keep a large handle Xacto knife with #2 "pointy" blades (also not bad pricey when you get 'em on Amazon, etc) for "fine" corner work...I usually hold it upside down/sharp edge up (Sam Andrews style...look up his videos on YouTube for more details on this method). Been cutting leather this way for a number of years now and see no reason to change canoes...I'm not one for fixin' things that ain't broken. Besides, those round knives make me a bit anxious as well.
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I'm like Dwight...Wellwood RED CAN (WRC)...the smelly stuff. Dating back to my years of working in cabinet shops, using it with laminate tops and wood veneer, I have lots of experience with it and very satisfied with the results. When we started this leather venture and found that most crafters here use it (or something very similar, chemically speaking), I found no need to "fix what wasn't broken", to use the old term. The plus side is that I can get it at my local Ace, Lowes or Home Depot in quarts & gallons. I have experimented with Titebond III and Gorilla Brand Wood Glue (not their original glue that requires dampening the surface and clamping for 1-2hrs)...results were pretty decent but definitely NOT as convenient as WRC. Like others on here I suspect, I've also developed the habit of keeping my jelly, pickle & olive jars...they are great for these kind of uses (glues, custom stain batches, etc). DD
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Good choice for material on the belt clip...metal, not the plastic "FOMI-style" things that absolutely WILL break at the most inopportune moment.
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That will NOT buff out...and, per your description, you are not likely to "walk off" any whoopin' she's inclined to dish out...
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Whoo-eee, Boy! I do like me some Schofield revolvers...and a brace of them, at that! Sure is a nice rig...heirloom work you've done there. I really like the color you picked and the border stamping....not "too fancy" and it compliments the shooting irons quite well. The money belt is a great design for this type of setup too...well executed! Thanks for sharing!