ericluther Report post Posted June 7, 2009 I saw this guys work and was blown away, how would I achieve this look? I am new to tooling, but do understand the basics. this is his website, some truly amazing work I thought. Eric Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Report post Posted June 7, 2009 I'm gonna stick my neck out and say I'm almost but not quite sure that was block dyed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericluther Report post Posted June 7, 2009 (edited) like what kind of tool did he use to get that round edge on everything? or what did he use around the edges to make it stand out?? is block dyed mean he cut it out of wood and pressed it??? sorry Im clueless on tooling lol Edited June 7, 2009 by ericluther Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted June 7, 2009 A little clarification: Block dying means wrapping a "block" or anything else with a good firm edge with a cloth and applying the dye to the cloth. Then the straight edge is pulled across the leather, so that any portion that is indented/bevelled/stamped/etc, (below the surface of the leather) doesn't get any dye. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hilly Report post Posted June 7, 2009 like what kind of tool did he use to get that round edge on everything? or what did he use around the edges to make it stand out?? is block dyed mean he cut it out of wood and pressed it??? sorry Im clueless on tooling lol He probably spent a lot of time using a modeling spoon to round over the edges after carving and beveling/backgrounding. As to the hammered steel look, I'd guess he used a smooth pear shader of some kind? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Johanna Report post Posted June 7, 2009 ericluther- please give us a link to the site that you found this picture on. You never know- the artist may be here already! Johanna Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericluther Report post Posted June 7, 2009 oops sorry!!! I thought I included it http://www.dbcustomleather.com/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Johanna Report post Posted June 7, 2009 I thought I recognized the work. That is Duane Ballard, a very talented guy! Johanna Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericluther Report post Posted June 7, 2009 I'm new to leatherwork, and tooling especially, but come from a fine art background and his work just really struck a chord with me, I was just blown away. I like the style alot! Heres a crappy cell phone photo of my first tooling attempt on a wallet, any critiques would be appreciated Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
McJeep Report post Posted June 7, 2009 Wow ... a lot of inspirational seats on that page! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CitizenKate Report post Posted June 7, 2009 Eric, here is a photo demo I did a while back on how to do block dying. Duane's piece appears to have been done with a similar method. Basically, you wash the piece with a lighter color of dye, and get it to penetrate thoroughly, then go over the raised areas with a darker color using a cloth loaded with dye that is wrapped around square block. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...ic=2712&hl= You can also just use a cloth folded flat, and wiped flatly over the raised areas to create a different effect. Kate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericluther Report post Posted June 7, 2009 Eric, here is a photo demo I did a while back on how to do block dying. Duane's piece appears to have been done with a similar method.Basically, you wash the piece with a lighter color of dye, and get it to penetrate thoroughly, then go over the raised areas with a darker color using a cloth loaded with dye that is wrapped around square block. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...ic=2712&hl= You can also just use a cloth folded flat, and wiped flatly over the raised areas to create a different effect. Kate Thank you Kate!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted June 7, 2009 Thanks for the info Kate. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomSwede Report post Posted June 7, 2009 Like Hilly said it's probably alot of work with the modelling spoon on the edges to round them off. What strikes me is how smooth he gets it wich makes me think that swivelknife control is key. Unintentional under/over cutting often makes it hard to round off edges. The smoothness in the area where the backgrounding of the eyes (holes) mets the raised portion makes me wonder if this was carved at all?? Just using a beveler with out carving is very difficult but produces very nice and smooth transitions to the beveled area. This piece is truely awesome, I don't dare to look at the rest on his site, lol!! Your first tooling experience came out good, you're on your way to learn more and my first advice is what I said earlier about swivelknife control and under/overcutting. I haven't tooled much the last half year and that's where I feel I have lost some control. Next advice is about lines and trying to get straight lines straight and curves/oval/circular lines to be just that and keeping the line. Once again..I use a carving practice wich is to alternate between a straight line and a S-shaped line to get the feel of following lines in my hands and to practice control over tilting the knife to avoid unwanted under/over cuts. If not too big I always rotate my leatherpiece simultaneously as I carve and for me this is the best way to work with curves. A bigger leather that remains static means that I have to use more movement with the hand and I feel I loose much control that way. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericluther Report post Posted June 7, 2009 Like Hilly said it's probably alot of work with the modelling spoon on the edges to round them off. What strikes me is how smooth he gets it wich makes me think that swivelknife control is key. Unintentional under/over cutting often makes it hard to round off edges.The smoothness in the area where the backgrounding of the eyes (holes) mets the raised portion makes me wonder if this was carved at all?? Just using a beveler with out carving is very difficult but produces very nice and smooth transitions to the beveled area. This piece is truely awesome, I don't dare to look at the rest on his site, lol!! Your first tooling experience came out good, you're on your way to learn more and my first advice is what I said earlier about swivelknife control and under/overcutting. I haven't tooled much the last half year and that's where I feel I have lost some control. Next advice is about lines and trying to get straight lines straight and curves/oval/circular lines to be just that and keeping the line. Once again..I use a carving practice wich is to alternate between a straight line and a S-shaped line to get the feel of following lines in my hands and to practice control over tilting the knife to avoid unwanted under/over cuts. If not too big I always rotate my leatherpiece simultaneously as I carve and for me this is the best way to work with curves. A bigger leather that remains static means that I have to use more movement with the hand and I feel I loose much control that way. Tom Thank you Tom! bite the bullet and check out his site, one of my faves is the crest on the seat with the wood and crown, amazing!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DuaneBallard Report post Posted June 8, 2009 Hey Eric, Thanks for the nice words about my work. I use a modeling spoon ALOT! That was dyed basically how they explained to you but I didn't use a block. Just a rag by hand. Thanks, Duane Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ericluther Report post Posted June 8, 2009 Hey Eric, Thanks for the nice words about my work. I use a modeling spoon ALOT! That was dyed basically how they explained to you but I didn't use a block. Just a rag by hand. Thanks, Duane Daune, thanks for the response!! You've really given me something to strive for man, the way you incorporate your art into leather was something I had envisioned doing with my own artwork but hadn't actually seen till coming across your site, well done! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeeperaz Report post Posted June 8, 2009 I have essentially no interest in leather tooling but I freely admit this work is very nice. Well done Duane! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LILYC Report post Posted September 6, 2009 hi, i think i know how he makes it look like beaten metal. i helped do some work on some film armour costumes and they used a 'needle descaler' electric or compressed air fueled tool. they look like the hopefully uploaded attatchment. you plug it in , and after casing the leather and putting it on a hard floor (alot of pressure for a table), u kneel down and move the tool in circles, and u will see the pattern appearing! obviously an expensive tool to buy off-hand, but im on sure large-scale projects it would save alot of time. it gives a look achieved by 'planishing' in the metal-work industry hopefully this is usefull (it's a bit of a secret) Lily Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
frontpost Report post Posted September 6, 2009 (edited) Harbor freight has them. You can buy the air chisel with an atatchment needle scaler $19.95. http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=scaler&Submit=Go Just the scaler cost more. Edited September 6, 2009 by frontpost Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
