Bigjake80 Report post Posted December 19, 2012 first attempt at a dog collar for a friends dog Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EquusCustomLeathers Report post Posted December 19, 2012 Very nice.."Hooch" is going to love it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
immiketoo Report post Posted December 19, 2012 Glad to see you used solid rivets. Anyone named Hooch is probably big enough to break the other kinds! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spence Report post Posted December 23, 2012 Great job!! Suggestion or two about the rivets: Turn the rivets around so the head is on top, in full view. Cut the shaft of the rivet about 3/16" above the washer. Tap the shaft as you peen it and don't be in a rush. The heat you generate from peening is what makes the shaft blossom out more evenly and you don't bend the shaft. You want the washers to stay flat and not bend into the work. Practice on scrap and I guarantee you'll never go back to hollow rivets. I use solid brass and stainless steel exclusively now. The stainless requires a tool and I don't have much leeway in cutting the shaft, but it's quick and looks pretty. G'luck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mikesmith648 Report post Posted December 23, 2012 I would be concerned with copper rivets being strong enough?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JohnBloch Report post Posted December 23, 2012 I was advised to use Chicago screws on anything that involves a large dog, but your design is awesome! I think Hooch the Pooch will be wagging his tail! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spence Report post Posted December 24, 2012 I work and supply collars for large working/competition dogs and have found that the leather will give before the rivets do. Having said that, I use only solid rivets. Chicago screws are good where there is no stress but locktite or a similar thread lock needs to be used - and checked often. Just my opinion and experience. g'luck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
seminole676 Report post Posted January 7, 2013 Great job!! Suggestion or two about the rivets: Turn the rivets around so the head is on top, in full view. Cut the shaft of the rivet about 3/16" above the washer. Tap the shaft as you peen it and don't be in a rush. The heat you generate from peening is what makes the shaft blossom out more evenly and you don't bend the shaft. You want the washers to stay flat and not bend into the work. Practice on scrap and I guarantee you'll never go back to hollow rivets. I use solid brass and stainless steel exclusively now. The stainless requires a tool and I don't have much leeway in cutting the shaft, but it's quick and looks pretty. G'luck where are you getting your rivets Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spence Report post Posted January 7, 2013 where are you getting your rivets I get my brass rivets from: www.rjleahy.com I buy them by the pound @ $32/lb (last shipment in Oct 2011) I also order flat washers to fit. They are $5.66/lb. The size I use is 1/8 x 1/2. The washers are .280"OD x .133"ID x .024THK G'luck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
