scooby

rather than strips of tape (which as Winterbear says is a pain to remove) you can use 'sticky backed plastic' that way it (generally) pulls off in one long spiral just like your lace. Once again a SHARP blade is required and I find it helps to cut the start with a knife to get it started.

I'm in no way shape or form an expert but I also backstitch start and end of stitch...... at least I think I do...... in fact I often double the ends quite a lot if it is a high stress area (ie the top of a knife sheath). I'm not sure how to explain myself but I'll do my best. Imagine a line of stitching with each hole numbered - 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 etc I start and finis the same so just reverse the steps at the other end. I start by threading my start at hole 5 and work my way saddle stitching with a twist to lock back to hole 1. Here I either go back to hole 2, back to hole 1 then back to 2 and then continue up the hole numbers to the other end of the stitch line or if the end is an open end I will do the extra one or two loops out and round the piece through hole 1 (hope that makes sense) so essentially in numbers it would be 5 4 3 2 1 2 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9........ or 5 4 3 2 1 1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9....... I've just read and reread that and even I get a little confused however I cant think of an easier way to explain it

yup pretty much - or use as it is for a thick chunky thread

could you not lay a number of lengths together to get the thickness you require? do you require it to have loads of strength........ we have what's known as 'anchor silk' (first link I could find) over here that comes in a myriad of colours and you can separate it into individual strands to get the thickness you require. I'm sure there is a similar thing over the pond that may fit the bill. Waxed up I would think it would work fine - if you are worried about strength could you not double stitch it over your 'sinew'?

Wow! I'd like to ask how you put the ipad in though? - the corners looks so snug and neat!!!

and me please

I mailed Tandy earlier and I wasn't going mad!!!! - this was the reply from Jim their customer Service Manager.... Good morning Graham, The video was taken off the website because some of the products have been discontinued. I will ask R & D to have George possibly make a new one. so fingers crossed for a remake and top marks for customer service.

Am I going mad? I'm sure I found a youtube video by Tandy / George Hurst showing the various tandy adhesives that were available a while ago but can't seem to find one now. Is there one (was there one) and if so where?

Is it possible to modify a standard flat edge beveller to a curved one - could I attack it with a small round needle file or will I just end up killing it forever?

I have been asked to tool a name. Not rocket science I'm sure but I have never tooled a thing in my life (bar embossing a makers stamp or two) Can anyone recommend me a simple font / style to try?

Good idea! - will do thanks I think it is more an issue of poor photo skills to be honest - it seems to cut well and dosn't drift as far as I can tell Well the Tandy tool is £17 plus delivery here and the mortice tool was £4 - I thought if it didn't work I could always I could always chop off the end and add the pin back again and have another (albeit slightly shorter) mortice tool thanks for the kind comments peeps!

I have toyed with buying a strap cutter to cut belts blanks for some time but have always baulked at the cost. I was thinking about making one from scratch but then I had one of those sparks of inspiration… Take one mortise marking tool from the local market tool store I removed the marking pin by knocking through and then used a claw hammer to remove it being careful not to mark the main 'bar' as this is what the leather will eventually ride on. With a very fine blade (junior hacksaw) I cut a slot for the blade from the left hand side as I am right handed – this means that when cutting you will be pushing the blade into the body. I then drilled a pilot hole to take my locking screw (the smallest I had) of which once I had screwed it in once to cut a thread I removed an files the point off to give a flat end to bite into the blade better. The blade is one from my skiver / thong cutting tool but you could use a Stanley blade snapped in half. With the blade in place the screw is tightened to hold it in place And finally a shot of it in use… - you must be wary of the exposed blade but that is the same as a number of models in Stohlmans book So there you have it! - a strap cutter on a budget!

I measured as 8 1/2" which was a loose comfy fit - voted for 9" as requested though! and 34" waist if you are interested!

Thanks for the comments Chuck and i'm not in the least offended - after all i'm just a newbee to this game after all! I have no idea about the rustyness - i read that is what it should be like so that is what I have always done..... also I understand re 'changing the leather' its just that It was the best way I could think of to describe the fact it isn't a stain to people to be honest I wondered re rusting too - i'll try a batch without somewhen and see if there is a differance.

There has been some discussion regarding colouring leather using vinagaroon in the past so here is how I make and use it. Note! - I am certainly no authority on this - It is just how I do it! MAKING VINEGAROON 'Ingredients' – Steel wool & Distilled Vinegar This batch was made using an old brillo pad which was washed till no soap remained then left to rust in a jar. To speed the rusting along I rinse the wool with a little water then pour out the excess to keep it damp for a few days. Fill up your jar with the wool in it with distilled vinegar (this is Tesco value brand!) And give it a good shake – it will look like brown muddy sludge – NOTE – ensure you loosen off the lid aftwards! (it will produce gas and build up pressure while 'brewing' and it can explode if you leave the lid firmly on. After a few days it will look like this – you can see the bubbles still being produced! Lock the lid back on and give it another good shake before loosening off and leaving for another couple of days – repeat this for about a week till the wool is dissolved away. It will probably still be cloudy sludge looking so I filter through a piece of kitchen paper to take out the big bits Once filtered it should look a little like weak back tea – ENSURE you label it well! You can use it straight away but I have found it better to leave it a couple of days to 'mature' – it kinda clears and looks more like a liquid rather than a solution if that makes sense. USING VINEGAROON It's simple - really simple! Either dip your veg tanned leather into the solution or daub / brush it on. It starts to darken almost immediately. You may have to do 2 or 3 applications to get the colour you want although it does darken and look better once it is oiled or waxed (I use mink oil) To neutralize the acid I soak a couple of times in a strong bicarbonate of soda solution then finally rinse in clean water. Here is a before shot of my demo piece of leather beside a white sheet of paper A link to a(poor and out of focus) video of the process to show the speed of the change And finally a pic of the result (before neutralizing and oiling!) Please note this is not a dye - it changes the structure of the leather itself so it will not wear off - however I find it gives a more even effect and is very quick and cheap! FINALLY..... ONE I MADE EARLIER! A sheath I made to show the effect on an actual piece