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DavidL

Freehand Cutting And Cutting Along Pattern?

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Its a bit of an obscure question..

Cutting around a stiff pattern doesnt work with my knife (clicker) that has a convex edge and I would like to learn to cut freehand using a round knife, exacto or rotary.

When you freehand cut leather (pen traced around pattern) do you cut on the line, inside of the line or outside of the line?

Any tips to cut straight line to avoid jagged or wavy lines. It looks near impossible to cut these lines with a exacto. I have seen it done using a japanese leather knife, round knife or french style knife in videos.

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Depends on the pattern but I cut on or outside the line. Sometimes I'll cut one piece the size I want and the other slightly larger. Then trim them when glued and sand the edge even.

For straight lines with a round knife, I roll the knife along the line. Move the knife or leather and repeat for the length I want.

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I've been using a heavy duty utility knife for most cuts. I have a couple of head knives but am working on sharpening them (struggling is a better word). I have recently begun using a Stohlman brand curved trim knife for cuts that require curves. I'm finding that I can keep it against the edge of my guide or follow a curved line easier with that curved tip, than the flatter bulkier utility blade.

I do need to work on sharpening it as well. I've stropped the fire out of it, but it needs a bit of touchup to be better.

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I've stropped the fire out of it, but it needs a bit of touchup to be better.

Sandpaper. Get some of the good wet/dry stuff that comes in small 3x6" or so sheets. I use 800 grit a lot, but you can use whatever you want. I know a knife maker that goes up to 2000 grit when he's stropping. I also add white rouge to my rough side strop. I have a double sided strop, one side is rough out the other is grain leather. When it gets really bad I back up to my fine diamond stone.

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There's loads of advice on sharpening, here and on YouTube.

Chiefjason's is typical, and if it works, use it.

I use a Stanley knife with a blade that has been resharpened a few times, and it seems to work better than new

Here's a tip I've heard of, though I don't use it myself. Mark out the pattern first with a scratch awl (hence the name!). That will make it easier for the knife to follow the pattern. Draw the pattern first with pencil, or go straight to the awl, whichever suits you

When you're using a strop make sure the blade is kept at the correct angle right up to the end of the stroke, then stop, and lift it off. There is a natural tendency to start to lift the handle of the knife as you reach the end, ready for the turn; ie the edge of the blade will become more perpendicular to the strop at the end of a stroke, but while the blade is still moving. This will automatically blunt the edge

.

In practice this is a bit difficult to do, you have to really concentrate. It's easier if you make 3 or 4 strokes in one direction, then 3 or 4 in the other; it's the turning at the end of a stroke that causes the problem of rounding the blade edge.

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I use a utility knife for all my cuts. I use a sharp pencil for traceing around my pattern and cut dead center on the line, the small thin line will disappear with the cut. On the little curves I just tilt the knife up so just the tip cuts. I do make 2 passes if it's thicker leather, after you make the first pass the knife will follow nicely to cut thru. I also strop my utility knife blade often, you'll be surprised how much that helps.

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Zulu dog you just pointed out something I've been doing without realizing it. When I strop I'm sure I lift the handle and come around the other direction instead of taking the whole knife blade off. I use a box cutter too so I should strop it more instead of changing blades so often. It just goes to show no matter how long you've been here or how often you come you can always learn something new. Cheryl

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I will remember the stropping tip next time I strop.

I also will go with a scratch awl for veg tan and a pen fine tip for chrome tan.

Tomg- the wood handle knife is the same type of knife I have that doesnt work too well for patterns. Next time I will go for kiridashi.

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I use a stropped utility knife (heavy leather) or rotary knife (light leather) against a straight edge for straight cuts and a stropped head knife or scissors for curved or freehand cuts (heavy and light leather, respectively). I also use a scratch awl to mark cuts for its accuracy and tendency to "guide" the knife blade. Good lighting is essential and magnification can aid my aging eyesight.

Michelle

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I use a scratch awl to mark my lines. For cutting I use 2 different knives, for straight cuts I use a very old, very curved skinning knife. For all my curved cuts I use a old Stanley 3 bladed pocket knife. I use these to cut thin leather (3-4 oz.) upto and including 15 oz. saddle skirting.

Everyone has there favorite tools for cutting, a lot of people use what everyone else does and with good results. I have found that I use what I'm comfortable with and they work good.

as Michelle says good lighting is essential, also the glasses for these old eyes, lol

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I have found a rotary cutter works good. You can buy them from Tandy but they are cheaper in the crafts section at Walmart.

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