Need Advice On Leather, Thread, And Design For First Holster

[Bobby hdflame]

OK, I'm expecting a new Cobra Class 4 in about 3 weeks. I'm going to purchase some Herman Oak from Springfield to use for my first holster. Please help me with a few questions.

Which cut of leather and what weight should I get? A double shoulder or a complete side? Which of these pieces would ya'll recommend?

http://springfieldleather.com/category/17/235/Tooling-Leathers/ and what oz.? I want a big piece of leather because I'll be making a couple of cowboy rigs too.

What about horse butts? I've read that's good for holsters and belts but I only see small pieces from Springfield.

What size thread for holsters? #277 or #346? I'll also be stitching a matching belt to use with it.

I have a XD .40 Sub Compact and want an outside waistband, higher ride for better concealment. What holster design would you guys recommend?

I hope I haven't asked too much at one time. Thanks in advance for the help!

[IngleGunLeather]

OK, I'm expecting a new Cobra Class 4 in about 3 weeks. I'm going to purchase some Herman Oak from Springfield to use for my first holster. Please help me with a few questions.

Which cut of leather and what weight should I get? A double shoulder or a complete side? Which of these pieces would ya'll recommend?

http://springfieldle...oling-Leathers/ and what oz.? I want a big piece of leather because I'll be making a couple of cowboy rigs too.

What about horse butts? I've read that's good for holsters and belts but I only see small pieces from Springfield.

What size thread for holsters? #277 or #346? I'll also be stitching a matching belt to use with it.

I have a XD .40 Sub Compact and want an outside waistband, higher ride for better concealment. What holster design would you guys recommend?

I hope I haven't asked too much at one time. Thanks in advance for the help!

Hey Bobby. Congrats on the Cobra. I've had mine for a few months now and love it.

-I'm using 6/7 oz HO with size 23 needle and 207 thread. That combo works for me.

-Amount of leather really depends on how much you plan to use. I ordered a side for the western rig I'm working on now. I'll have a good bit left over if I don't waste it.

-Haven't tried horse butts......found this in a quick google search horse vs cow

-I've done mostly pancake style holsters, easier for me. I've only done one avenger style.

Two 6/7 oz pieces of HO sewn with size 23 needle and 207 thread....

Edited August 14, 2012 by CountryTrash

[KAYAK45]

Well Bobby, lots of questions, good ones too!

Ask your dealer about thread size and needles..Don't need many..they just don't break that often. don't need much thread the first couple weeks either, just use the needle and "sew" cardboard and paper. Holes are good things.

Just call Springfield and ask for Kevin.. he will lead ya straight. Tell him another kevin sent you.

Kevin

PS You'l like the 4000

[triage1998]

OK, I'm expecting a new Cobra Class 4 in about 3 weeks. I'm going to purchase some Herman Oak from Springfield to use for my first holster. Please help me with a few questions.

Which cut of leather and what weight should I get? A double shoulder or a complete side? Which of these pieces would ya'll recommend?

http://springfieldle...oling-Leathers/ and what oz.? I want a big piece of leather because I'll be making a couple of cowboy rigs too.

What about horse butts? I've read that's good for holsters and belts but I only see small pieces from Springfield.

What size thread for holsters? #277 or #346? I'll also be stitching a matching belt to use with it.

I have a XD .40 Sub Compact and want an outside waistband, higher ride for better concealment. What holster design would you guys recommend?

I hope I haven't asked too much at one time. Thanks in advance for the help!

I have used Hermann Oak grade B grade sides from Springfield and love that stuff. It cuts nice and is really consistent. I have also bought sides of HO from Weaver Leather and have been very happy with it. I do want to try some Wickett and Craig soon.

I just bought a piece of the horse butt Springfield Leather advertises for $12 and made the pancake with reinforcement piece holster below with it. I used 346 thread and 277 in my bobbin using a Tippmann Boss. If you want a little higher riding holster just adjust your belt placement a little lower on your pattern.

I also made an avenger style OWB holster this past week using some of the Springfield Leathers 8/9 oz Hermann Oak grade B sides for a 5" 1911. I prefer 8/9 or even 9/10oz for 1911's and all steel handguns. Polymer guns like the Springfield XD you can get away with 7/8oz leather. I like both the Pancake style and avenger style but if I had my choice it would be the avenger style.

Edited August 14, 2012 by triage1998

[mlapaglia]

1 Which cut of leather and what weight should I get? A double shoulder or a complete side? Which of these pieces would ya'll recommend?

http://springfieldle...oling-Leathers/ and what oz.? I want a big piece of leather because I'll be making a couple of cowboy rigs too.

I Would get a double shoulder for holsters. But a full side gives you a lot of leather if you want to do belts for larger people . I use 8/9 for holsters and 2 pieces of 8/9 for belts.

2 What about horse butts? I've read that's good for holsters and belts but I only see small pieces from Springfield.

I havent used horse yet so I can not answer this one.

What size thread for holsters? #277 or #346? I'll also be stitching a matching belt to use with it.

I use 277 with a 794 S 200/25 needle for my Boss Tippman.

I have a XD .40 Sub Compact and want an outside waistband, higher ride for better concealment. What holster design would you guys recommend?

I would suggest an Avenger holster or go with an IWB so it really wont show.

Hope that helps.

Edited August 14, 2012 by mlapaglia

[renegadelizard]

Which cut of leather and what weight should I get? A double shoulder or a complete side? Which of these pieces would ya'll recommend?

http://springfieldle...oling-Leathers/ and what oz.? I want a big piece of leather because I'll be making a couple of cowboy rigs too.

You can Get HO single shoulders for 4.99 a sqaure foot at Springfield. This is what I use nearly all of the time..

What about horse butts? I've read that's good for holsters and belts but I only see small pieces from Springfield.

Horsehide is different to work with, not bad, just different...it has to be wetter to avoid splitting the surface when doing extreme bends..it has a consistancy which reminds me of wax impregnated cardboard...when edging, it shines up super fast...buy one and play with it..you might like it, you might not..

What size thread for holsters? #277 or #346? I'll also be stitching a matching belt to use with it.

Why wait, I hand sew everything..give it shot and you will learn all kinds of neat stuff..

I have a XD .40 Sub Compact and want an outside waistband, higher ride for better concealment. What holster design would you guys recommend?

the avenger style holster is comfortable, but not very concealable..its also called the professional..it design lends itself to use by professional Law Enforcement types..ie, plainclothes officers..please note, there is a difference between plain clothes and undercover...plainclothes officers have no need to conceal, they need day long comfort as they go about their business..undercover need concealability above comfort...make both types, a pancake to wear concealed, and an avenger to wear to the range...

[Bobby hdflame]

Thanks to everyone for all the answers and help!

I'll call Springfield and get some leather on order today. I want it to be in, when the new machine arrives.

Just curious about the benefits and differences between the pancake and the avenger. With the pancake style, I'm thinking that with the belt loop slots, that it can only be worn outside but with proper clips it can be worn IWB?? I'm guessing that the pancake holds it tighter to your side to make it easier to conceal than the avenger style when wearing OWB? Am I correct on my assumptions?

I have never worn IWB, but I don't think I would like it on my side.....maybe in the small of my back?

Thanks again to everyone's help! This site has taught me a lot!

I'm ready to start punching some holes in leather!

CountryTrash, nice looking belt! Does that go with your cowboy rig? I have three videos from John Bianchi on western holsters. I'm planning on making my Dad one for Christmas.

Triage1998, I like your holsters. I'm going to tackle something like that for me, before the western rig.

Someone mentioned that the needles lasted a log time. I was watching one of the videos from John Bianchi yesterday and he said to change needles after every ten hours, I think. Don't remember for sure, but he said that you're going through such thick leather that it stresses the needles and if you break one it could damage your machine.

I don't think I've ever broke more than one or two on my upholstery machine. I normally use #138 with a #22 needle. Usually it gets dull or gets a little nick on the tip from hitting a staple and I change it. I buy 100 packs of needles so it really doesn't bother me changing one occasionally. I know the needles for the Cobra are more expensive, but after I decide which thread I like the most, I'll buy a 100 pack of needles.

This is some of the leather I'm sewing now. Some of it is veg tanned and some of it is Latigo leather. Most of it is 9-10 oz. It's about all my upholstery machine wants! These pictures show some thinner leather that I use in places where it doesn't have to be real thick. I'll be using the new Cobra for sewing on the leather when I get it.

All of the leather I'm using now is just for reinforcement. Can't wait to make some holsters, belts, and sheaths.

I know there's different kinds of points on leather needles. Does anyone have a preference?

Edited August 14, 2012 by Bobby hdflame

[renegadelizard]

Thanks to everyone for all the answers and help!

I'll call Springfield and get some leather on order today. I want it to be in, when the new machine arrives.

Just curious about the benefits and differences between the pancake and the avenger. With the pancake style, I'm thinking that with the belt loop slots, that it can only be worn outside but with proper clips it can be worn IWB?? I'm guessing that the pancake holds it tighter to your side to make it easier to conceal than the avenger style when wearing OWB? Am I correct on my assumptions?

I have never worn IWB, but I don't think I would like it on my side.....maybe in the small of my back?

Thanks again to everyone's help! This site has taught me a lot!

I'm ready to start punching some holes in leather!

CountryTrash, nice looking belt! Does that go with your cowboy rig? I have three videos from John Bianchi on western holsters. I'm planning on making my Dad one for Christmas.

Triage1998, I like your holsters. I'm going to tackle something like that for me, before the western rig.

Someone mentioned that the needles lasted a log time. I was watching one of the videos from John Bianchi yesterday and he said to change needles after every ten hours, I think. Don't remember for sure, but he said that you're going through such thick leather that it stresses the needles and if you break one it could damage your machine.

I don't think I've ever broke more than one or two on my upholstery machine. I normally use #138 with a #22 needle. Usually it gets dull or gets a little nick on the tip from hitting a staple and I change it. I buy 100 packs of needles so it really doesn't bother me changing one occasionally. I know the needles for the Cobra are more expensive, but after I decide which thread I like the most, I'll buy a 100 pack of needles.

This is some of the leather I'm sewing now. Some of it is veg tanned and some of it is Latigo leather. Most of it is 9-10 oz. It's about all my upholstery machine wants! These pictures show some thinner leather that I use in places where it doesn't have to be real thick. I'll be using the new Cobra for sewing on the leather when I get it.

All of the leather I'm using now is just for reinforcement. Can't wait to make some holsters, belts, and sheaths.

I know there's different kinds of points on leather needles. Does anyone have a preference?

SOB holsters should only be worn by people with spines made of a harder material than the gun they are carrying is made of...when/if you fall, and you land in the worst possible spot as dictated MR. Murphy, t wil be the same as if you were hit in the spine by a block of steel...not very comfortable in the best of scenarios...

[Bobby hdflame]

SOB holsters should only be worn by people with spines made of a harder material than the gun they are carrying is made of...when/if you fall, and you land in the worst possible spot as dictated MR. Murphy, t wil be the same as if you were hit in the spine by a block of steel...not very comfortable in the best of scenarios...

SOB holsters should only be worn by people with spines made of a harder material than the gun they are carrying is made of...when/if you fall, and you land in the worst possible spot as dictated MR. Murphy, t wil be the same as if you were hit in the spine by a block of steel...not very comfortable in the best of scenarios...

Good point! Maybe that's why they're called "SOB's"!

[TwinOaks]

I specifically refuse to make SOB holsters that will cross the spine, for that exact reason. One of the doctors I supply (with leather), has seen first hand what happens with a spinal injury. Here's how he described it: He made a fist with each hand and set one on top of the other.....then he moved the top one sideways so that only the bottom edge of his top fist was touching the one below it. As he put it, there is no fixing that kind of injury. I explain that to the customers that think they want a SOB holster, and I've only had ONE still want that style. He didn't get his holster from me.

Occasionally, I still get requests for small guns that will rest on the back of the hip, and I'm 'okay' with that......but the customer signs a liability waiver that stays in my files.

[Colt Hammerless]

"You can Get HO single shoulders for 4.99 a sqaure foot at Springfield. This is what I use nearly all of the time.."

Renegadelizard,

I just noticed those single shoulders on their site the other day. I'm assuming their around C or D grade (you know what happens when you assume though,) but am curious as to what your experience with them is. Mostly wondering if you get a lot of useable leather, or if there's a lot of scars and fat marks to work around. If it's a good bit of useable material, that's a great price!

Triage1998, what color is on those holsters? The color is really nice. On the top one, I'm guessing Angelus Cordovan, maybe Fiebing's Pro Oil Mahogany though.

Paul

[triage1998]

Triage1998, what color is on those holsters? The color is really nice. On the top one, I'm guessing Angelus Cordovan, maybe Fiebing's Pro Oil Mahogany though.

Paul

Paul that is a custom mix of Angelus cordovan, Fiebings dark brown and Fiebings saddle tan cut with denatured alcohol. Took me forever to get the right mixture. I ended up making 4 gallons after it was all said and done LOL

[Colt Hammerless]

So it's Cordarbrosadtandenalc. That was my other guess.

Thanks!

I made a custom mix of Angelus Brown and Fiebing's Saddle Tan, that wound up a nice dark mahogany, at least on some cheap Tandy Craftsman Oak. Custom mixes can be fun like that.

Paul

[renegadelizard]

"You can Get HO single shoulders for 4.99 a sqaure foot at Springfield. This is what I use nearly all of the time.."

Renegadelizard,

I just noticed those single shoulders on their site the other day. I'm assuming their around C or D grade (you know what happens when you assume though,) but am curious as to what your experience with them is. Mostly wondering if you get a lot of useable leather, or if there's a lot of scars and fat marks to work around. If it's a good bit of useable material, that's a great price!

Triage1998, what color is on those holsters? The color is really nice. On the top one, I'm guessing Angelus Cordovan, maybe Fiebing's Pro Oil Mahogany though.

Paul

Hey Paul,

Its pretty good leather for the most part. I've only had to return on out of the 5 or so I ve ordered so far. I think I am going to have to try Wickett and Craig soon though..i hate trying to get even dye coloring, and they have pre dyed leather...the HO B grade is pretty good too, but you get some belly leather with that...Springfield has the absolute best customer service though...ask anyone here...

[Colt Hammerless]

I hear you on Springfield's customer service. They make it so you almost wish you're about to run out of something just so you can place another order. I'm currently using W&C skirting leather, and love it. Have them "holster" it for you. They put it through their press again and it makes for a firmer hand that makes a very nice rigid holster. I bought a piece of 8-10 oz. and was going to have them split it to an even 8 oz., but they said after "holstering" it, it would wind up about that thickness. Well, it didn't. It's about 9.5 oz. I don't have a splitter, so I have to sand each new project down on an oscillating spindle sander. Next time, I'll definitely have them split it. They have some nice colors, though I wish they had a few more. RJF, which is a sponsor here who carries Thoroughbred leather, has some other nice colors that one could use to fill the gaps not filled by W&C. They have a nice medium brown they call "Walnut" and a nice dark brown called "Havana" as well as Mahogany, Russet and Black. I got some sample swatches from him (Roger at RJF,) but have never used their leather. Don't know how it compares to W&C or Hermann Oak as far as rigidity after wet forming goes. W&C has a brown skiring, that (at least in the sample I got) oils to a light brown. Nice color, and would be useful to use for airbrushing the edges for a sunburst effect, as it's not too dark. And their Chestnut is very nice, especially after oiling. Those single shoulders of HO from Springfield might be a nice option for when you have a project that calls for a much different weight than what you normally have on hand.

Paul

[renegadelizard]

I hear you on Springfield's customer service. They make it so you almost wish you're about to run out of something just so you can place another order. I'm currently using W&C skirting leather, and love it. Have them "holster" it for you. They put it through their press again and it makes for a firmer hand that makes a very nice rigid holster. I bought a piece of 8-10 oz. and was going to have them split it to an even 8 oz., but they said after "holstering" it, it would wind up about that thickness. Well, it didn't. It's about 9.5 oz. I don't have a splitter, so I have to sand each new project down on an oscillating spindle sander. Next time, I'll definitely have them split it. They have some nice colors, though I wish they had a few more. RJF, which is a sponsor here who carries Thoroughbred leather, has some other nice colors that one could use to fill the gaps not filled by W&C. They have a nice medium brown they call "Walnut" and a nice dark brown called "Havana" as well as Mahogany, Russet and Black. I got some sample swatches from him (Roger at RJF,) but have never used their leather. Don't know how it compares to W&C or Hermann Oak as far as rigidity after wet forming goes. W&C has a brown skiring, that (at least in the sample I got) oils to a light brown. Nice color, and would be useful to use for airbrushing the edges for a sunburst effect, as it's not too dark. And their Chestnut is very nice, especially after oiling. Those single shoulders of HO from Springfield might be a nice option for when you have a project that calls for a much different weight than what you normally have on hand.

Paul

I was thinking something along those lines. I was goin to get some wc in 5 oz holstered for doubling up the front for inlay work, and stay with the ho for my hybrids and for the flesh out IWB. Not that the ho isn't goo enough, I just hate to dye.