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Jarhead84

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    22
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About Jarhead84

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    WI
  • Interests
    We are a Husband and Wife, interested in Leatherwork & Tooling, Wallets, Belts, Collars, Cuffs etc.

LW Info

  • Interested in learning about
    Wallets, Exotic Leather
  1. So it sits inside your die to push the leather back out after it is cut?
  2. So Clicker I see you sell the ejection rubber also, is that what is used under the leather to protect the dies? If so how is that different or better than the "Red Poly Board" that other places sell for the hydraulic clickers. I plan to get and build a 20 ton from HF, and am just a little confused on the material used as a backer. Thanks
  3. Thanks, Ray. That sounds like an easy approach. We will try that one too.
  4. Ok, thanks, I have a couple new ways to try now. I really appreciate the help.
  5. Yes, this is the effect I was looking for cept maybe just a little darker or "bolder", but yes! I will try both techniques but I will have to go out to get some Antique-ing stain/dye
  6. OK, I stamp my leather with 1/4" Tandy alphabet, i would like the letters themselves the flat part at the bottom of the depressions to be DARK and the rest to be a lighter color, I 'm not sure if maybe Antique would give me that effect ? To show you I would probably have to "borrow" someone elses picture though if you can't picture what I mean. Hope that explanation helps some,
  7. This is probably a very rudimentary question but I haven't had much luck with it. I was wondering the technique or type of dye/stain to get my stamped letters dark and the rest of the work a lighter tan, without painting or dyeing with a fine brush.I've tried Tandy's Hi-Lite and the results were not that great or different in color. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mark
  8. Ok, Thanks, that sounds like the route I'll take with the solder. I have been using an arbor press and a ball bearing to dome them, I will have to check Harbor Freight on a domer.
  9. Is this in the wrong topic or has no one ever tried to make their own?
  10. I plan on making my own buffalo nickel snaps. Does anyone have any experience with solder versus epoxy to do this. Basically what would be the most durable way to do this? Thanks, Mark
  11. No, not lifting the foot, only when turning the pulley by hand.
  12. When sewing with my Seiko sth-8bld-3 under power everything looks great. When I hand turn the pulley ie. around corners ,curves or backtacking it appears that the upper tension is too loose. But as soon as i push my pedal the stitches look perfect. Is that normal or is this operator error. It's 2 pieces of 2oz veg #138 nylon, right now , but happens regardless of thread or thickness. Thanks
  13. Wisconsin here as well, north of Milwaukee.
  14. Thanks, Springfield appearantly makes their own Top Notch interiors and they come with no directions. This helps, I guess the other piece gets sewn in at the bottom and sets under the divider flap, since that piece is not shown. Thank you,
  15. Hello, we just received our Springfield Leather order which had a couple of "Top Notch" wallet interiors we planned to experiment with. So my question is with the 2 extra parts that belong to the interior. I figured the one larger is the security flap or bill hider, but I am really unsure as to what the other thin longer piece does or I guess exactly how those other pieces are to be laid out. Has anyone else here worked with these particular interiors. Thanks
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