Different Leather, Dfferent Results

[malabar]

Looking for some insight on different types of leather and the effects it has on your holsters.....

Up until now, I've been working with veg-tan from a variety of sources, but no HO or W&C. The holsters I make out of this leather are hardened and hold their shape well. But I haven't been able to get the finished look that I see in, for example, a Milt Sparks.

So I got a couple of drum-dyed veg-tan backs from Weaver Leather. The stuff is gorgeous. It has a sheen and a slick finish. It cuts like a dream. It has the look of the finished leather from Milt Sparks. But I can't mold it the same way as "regular" veg tan. It doesn't absorb water like regular veg-tan, and baking it merely makes it softer -- it simply doesn't harden. You can stretch it a bit, and it will make a holster, but it doesn't harden up. I can't get the holster to "snap" into place.

So is this the choice? Does HO and W&C drum-dyed behave the same way? Does drum-dyed simply behave a different way?

tk

Edited January 8, 2012 by malabar

[troop]

it kind of sounds like you may have english bridle instead of holster leather. i use W/C and get specific holster drum dyed leather and it tools and molds perfectly.

Tony

[malabar]

it kind of sounds like you may have english bridle instead of holster leather. i use W/C and get specific holster drum dyed leather and it tools and molds perfectly.

Tony

Supposedly it is drum-dyed veg-tan.

What I find interesting is that my finished product is reminiscent of the Sparks holster.

tk

[dickf]

it kind of sounds like you may have english bridle instead of holster leather. i use W/C and get specific holster drum dyed leather and it tools and molds perfectly.

Tony

That was my first thought too.

Bridle leather is still vegetable tanned leather. Does Weaver sell a variety of different leather from different sources? I thought they sold Hermann Oak exclusively.

[Steven Kelley]

I've used some WC black drum dyed veg tan, and it performs equally with the non-dyed. It cuts, molds, and stiffens the same as non-dyed. The only issues I've had with it is that the back side doesn't have a uniform color. Because of this, I have to redye the holster, which kind of negates the benefits of buying it dyed from the tannery.

[evandailey]

That was my first thought too.

Bridle leather is still vegetable tanned leather. Does Weaver sell a variety of different leather from different sources? I thought they sold Hermann Oak exclusively.

Weaver sells Herman Oak, Chahin, and other imported stuff.

[Shooter McGavin]

I'm having the same issue right now. I took my clicker dye and had them click me out a bunch of pieces for a new holster line I'm working on. I failed to notice that the leather was "finished", and what that meant. It doesnt absorb water really. It doesnt seem to wet mold well. And it doesnt harden.

I basically wasted 200 bucks.

It is the 11-1220DS

[malabar]

I'm having the same issue right now. I took my clicker dye and had them click me out a bunch of pieces for a new holster line I'm working on. I failed to notice that the leather was "finished", and what that meant. It doesnt absorb water really. It doesnt seem to wet mold well. And it doesnt harden.

I basically wasted 200 bucks.

It is the 11-1220DS

I got the 11-1211VC on the opposite page. It's marked ideal for belts, cases holsters and pouches. In the past I has used the 11-1201VC, which is supposed to be the same thing minus the finish. That's perfectly reasonable veg-tan, although it's a little pale and doesn't darken up as well as some under vinegaroon.

Could make some real pretty belts out of the prefinished stuff.

tk

Edited January 9, 2012 by malabar

[Denster]

I thought I recognized that order number. 11-1211VC. I ordered two of those awhile back. Had the same experience you did. I called Weaver's to ask them just what the heck it was. Turns out that it is highly compressed bullhide used generally to make portable radio cases etc. It will not absorb moisture period and I couldn't get it to glue up even using Masters. I used it finally to make dress belts and rifle and shotgun carry straps. Oh yeah don't bother trying to burnish the edges either.

If you want something in drum dyed black that works well and I mean really well. Get the 03-430S Hermann Oak Black Strap sides Weaver's has them in 6/7 and 7/8. The color is struck through and it molds and firms up like well Hermann Oak. Seriously I've bought over 150 sides and they are great.

If you want different colors go to page 58 which is the Hermann Oak Bridle Leather starting with 02-320S. Now before someone tells me bridle leather won't work for holsters this is not your usual bridle leather. It is much drier than english bridle and will absorb moisture and mold and firm up very nicely. The color is not struck through however. Or you can do as Tony suggested and get W&C drumm dyed backs.

[Shooter McGavin]

Denster,

Tha nks for reconfirming my waste of 200 dollars. Grrrrrrrr

[Denster]

Looking for some insight on different types of leather and the effects it has on your holsters.....

Up until now, I've been working with veg-tan from a variety of sources, but no HO or W&C. The holsters I make out of this leather are hardened and hold their shape well. But I haven't been able to get the finished look that I see in, for example, a Milt Sparks.

So I got a couple of drum-dyed veg-tan backs from Weaver Leather. The stuff is gorgeous. It has a sheen and a slick finish. It cuts like a dream. It has the look of the finished leather from Milt Sparks. But I can't mold it the same way as "regular" veg tan. It doesn't absorb water like regular veg-tan, and baking it merely makes it softer -- it simply doesn't harden. You can stretch it a bit, and it will make a holster, but it doesn't harden up. I can't get the holster to "snap" into place.

So is this the choice? Does HO and W&C drum-dyed behave the same way? Does drum-dyed simply behave a different way?

tk

See my previous post regarding the particular leather you bought. Regarding your question as to how drumm dyed veg tan behaves. The only difference you will note is that it takes just slightly longer to take up moisture and I mean slightly more. Other than that you will notice no difference from natural veg tan in either molding or heat firming. From a practical aspect it is best to stay with W&C or HO. Yes they are more expensive but you are only talking a difference of two or three dollars per holster or less and the difference in quality of the finished product will be light years ahead. If you want your holsters to look like Milt Sparks then you have to start with the same materials. As simple as it is.

Edited January 9, 2012 by Denster

[malabar]

I thought I recognized that order number. 11-1211VC. I ordered two of those awhile back. Had the same experience you did. I called Weaver's to ask them just what the heck it was. Turns out that it is highly compressed bullhide used generally to make portable radio cases etc. It will not absorb moisture period and I couldn't get it to glue up even using Masters. I used it finally to make dress belts and rifle and shotgun carry straps. Oh yeah don't bother trying to burnish the edges either.

If you want something in drum dyed black that works well and I mean really well. Get the 03-430S Hermann Oak Black Strap sides Weaver's has them in 6/7 and 7/8. The color is struck through and it molds and firms up like well Hermann Oak. Seriously I've bought over 150 sides and they are great.

If you want different colors go to page 58 which is the Hermann Oak Bridle Leather starting with 02-320S. Now before someone tells me bridle leather won't work for holsters this is not your usual bridle leather. It is much drier than english bridle and will absorb moisture and mold and firm up very nicely. The color is not struck through however. Or you can do as Tony suggested and get W&C drumm dyed backs.

Denster,

thanks for the heads up. that explains a lot, but damn it all, that's not the way it's listed.

Now the only question is HO or W&C.

tk

[Shooter McGavin]

I've had really good luck with the drum dyed W&C leather.

[malabar]

I've had really good luck with the drum dyed W&C leather.

Yeah, and they'll split it, too.

tk

[JoelR]

+1 to W&C. Drum dyed is not struck all the way through and the flesh side needs a bit of attention, but man does it hold a form without heat drying... Plus, we need the money here in PA