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custom leashes and collars for dogs

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I've recently made a number of custom leashes and collars for dogs. Comments invited.

Tony Starratt

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limited_slip_collars_with_matching_tandem_coupler_2.jpg

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Tony,

Ever since I tried to braid a lanyard at Boy Scout camp about 102 years ago, with predictable results, I have been impressed by anybody who can braid. I think those collars look great.

Mike

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Thanks, Mike. I think that's about how long ago I learned to braid ...

I've been braiding leads and collars for 6? years now. Trying all the time to improve my products. I've recently ordered the Decorative Knots and Braiding dvd to that end. I'm curious as to how he handles the matter of what to do with the ends once one has finished braiding. I have worked out a technique that disposes of them quite neatly. And I don't worry that they will work themselves free.

Tony Starratt

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What kind of leather do you do your plaiting with? Is the core plaited too? If not what did you do for the core?

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I wouldn't know, I never got to the end...

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Kangaroo. I was thinking of using calf leather lacing with metallic finishes to add knots to leashes for those who like a little bling, but my husband is doubtful that the finish would stand up to the usage.

Tony Starratt

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Tony, those look real nice. The roo lace you use, do you dye it yourself?

Ken

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As for the core, I use nylon mason's line. It has a rated breaking strength, with a steady pull, of 135 pounds. It too is braided, with its own twisted core. I form the initial loop, where the clip or ring is attached, by bringing the short end through the long end where I want them to join, then the long end through the short end next to the initial join. I then unbraid the short end halfway, remove as much of the core as I can, cut off half the loose strands, and using a needle, trying hard not to intersect the twisted core inside, I bring the loop of a bridge floss threader (see http://dentistry.about.com/od/replacingmis...bridgemaint.htm) through the line towards the join, where I insert half the length of the remaining loose strands and pull them through the line. Once I get them pulled through, I grasp them with a hemostat and work the rest of the loose end through and cut off. For the handle of a leash, or around a ring for a collar, I take the end through where I want the join, then through itself above the join, then through below the loop once again, then deal with embedding it in the core as previously. More than you wanted to know?

I'd like to try commercial braided fishing line with a strength of over 200 pounds, but I have to find a source first and get a sample to ensure that I would be able to manipulate it in this fashion.

I'm curious as to the strength of braided kangaroo alone. Has anybody rated it, beyond the standard "When split to 20% of original thickness kangaroo retains between 30 to 60% of the tensile strength of the unsplit hide"?

Tony

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Tony,

Welcome to leatherworker and thanks for sharing the pictures of your work.

You can get kangaroo lace in a lot of colors, even metalics. I have gotten some from Jim Downey in Arizona. I am not how durable the lace would be. I tried and you can scrape the metalic off, but it takes some doing. Under the metalic, the lace looks black. You can contant him at Jim Downey for more information. Jim is a really nice guy.

Clay

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Thanks, Clay. I appreciate the information. I am not fussy about it being kangaroo as I use kangaroo for strength, and the knots would be strictly decorative. Calf would be cheaper. The only real issue would be durability of the finish. But I will contact Jim and ask about it.

Tony Starratt

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Can I suggest that you dont need to splice back at the clip end. You can in fact start your plait there by just doubling over the strands, so if you are doing a six strand leash you cut three strands & double them over. Then you only have one splice at the handle end. It's much neater.

I've just ordered a silver & a gold hide so I will be cutting my own lacing from them. I've never seen them before, I hope they're nice.

Linda

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Man, I'm always impressed by someone who can braid. I've tried but I just can't seem to get it to look like it does in the books. I'm way to impatient.

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Linda wrote:

> Can I suggest that you dont need to splice back at the clip end. You can in fact

> start your plait there by just doubling over the strands, so if you are doing a six

> strand leash you cut three strands & double them over. Then you only have one

> splice at the handle end. It's much neater.

I'm not so sure about neater. Less bulky, certainly. My splicing at the clip end looks good and is much stronger than three laces doubled over. I'm all about looks *and* strength.

Tony Starratt, Ottawa, ON, Canada

Courteous K9 Accessories (http://ck9a.com)

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> Man, I'm always impressed by someone who can braid. I've tried but I just can't seem to get it

> to look like it does in the books. I'm way to impatient.

Thank you, Warren. You have to remember that I learned to braid like this something like 48 years ago. My fingers have considerable muscle memory, so I don't have to think too much about what I am doing. And those braiders who suggest that you roll your braid know what they are talking about. Even my braiding is improved by it.

Tony Starratt, Ottawa, ON, Canada

Courteous K9 Accessories (http://ck9a.com)

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