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Pit 4 Brains

Contributing Member
  • Content Count

    29
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About Pit 4 Brains

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Mesa, Az
  • Interests
    BBQ, Charcuterie, Hunting, muzzleloaders, Handloading and now leather

LW Info

  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Tandy employee
  1. Staining before stitching. I haven't thought of that yet. That would really help keep the leather clean for a nice consistent finish. Right now (I'm still very unexperienced) I keep finding areas of my projects that did not take to the staining for one reason or another. I was assuming it was either wax residue from stitching or skin oil from all the incidental handling. Besides, if I botch a finish job, then I won't waste time stitching. Thanks!
  2. I might pick up a bit of beeswax to use as I stitch. I was using artificial sinew and it was fraying quite a bit. Thanks for the tip..
  3. Is there any concern about the overall "de-waxing" of thread or artificial sinew after doing 30 or forty stitches? I was stitching up a holster today and noticed that the thread (A.S.) was almost devoid of wax by the fiftieth stitch, or at least not nearly as waxy as the first few. After I set the stitches with a mallet, they all look the same and are very consistent. While I'm here, will wiping the the leather with alcohol before dyeing affect the wax in the stitches? Thanks..
  4. Wow. I really need to get going on my next holster. My turkey hunt is going to be a snow/rainout this weekend so I might as well get some leather tomorrow and get to work. Thanks for all the tips! Looks like it's time to pick up one of those boning tools too..
  5. Good product, fast shipping! Thanks!
  6. Among other things, he was a Medal of Honor recipient. Rickenbacker Air National Guard Base is named in his honor. It is home to the 121st Air Refueling Wing, one of our sister wings. I serve the 161st ARW in Phx, AZ.
  7. I just found a couple rolls in the pantry. I asked my wife if we still had the sealer and low and behold it was tucked under the counter in the corner of the cabinets. I thought we sold it in our moving sale. Hmm. How do you keep the garbage bag from flattening and sealing before a lll the air comes out? I tried to deflate an aircraft lifting bag like that but the low pressure at the nozzle just flattened the bag right there and left the bag somewhat inflated. And that was some heavy duty rubber too.
  8. Lobo, thanks for that VERY informative post. Before this I had never thought to do two formings. Now all I have to do is fab up some boning tools and get to work on my next holster. Thanks again, -Pete
  9. Like anything else, looks like I have a lot of trial and error ahead of me. Thanks for all the tips and help. I'll be forming up another this weekend and applying what I have learned with this one. -Pete
  10. Ok, stitch line to stitch line. I think I'll do a much simpler one this week with the leather I have left. Maybe just a bit wider than the belt loops for a high-carry, non-retained type. I use some simple Tandy waxed thread laid in a groove with a 2mm Craftool diamond punch (two prong). What 's the norm on hand stitching these things if I might ask? Does the texture of the inside of the bag imprint itself on the leather?
  11. I had one of those. It wasn't cost effective to store food at all as fast as we ate it. Wish I had it now. I'll be in the used market for one now.. Thanks for the scoop on that method.
  12. It may not look beveled in the pic, but it was. I think it's the black edging I used for a final touch (another thing I think looks cheesy). I think it may help if I have my tools out in plain sight and in order of usage.. When beveling the mouth and toe, is it imperative to not bevel the parts that are going to make up the welt? if so, how do you determine that point ? Is it right at the stitching or a little towards the welt or the mouth/toe? Thanks ..
  13. Thanks for the tip on the flat back holster. I have to admit, I got wrapped up in this thing that I forgot to bevel all together. I did most of it after stitching and staining. I need to concentrate on my order of processes. I did not line this, I just thought the stitching would look good along all edges. As for the toe, another overlook. I think I need to fall back and do a simpler pancake without a retention strap.
  14. Do you still have this? Thanks
  15. I have been looking at thousands of pics of holsters before trying to make one. My goal was to replace my Bianchi with a similar leather holster that will not rock or slide on the belt. I am new to leather so please bear with me. I have minimal tools but the collection slowly grows. I have wet formed a few small projects and I can't seem to achieve that "vacuum sealed " look that I want. In reality, my leather looks like I beat it to shape with a hammer. I used 6-8 oz veg tanned leather. Is my leather too thick to get a good fitting form? All in all, this holster came out well and it's something I'll wear when hunting since I won't mind dragging it through the Sonoran Desert brush. The things I like: My stitching is becoming more consistent as I go. I use a saddle stitch with a knot. The holster wears well and fits my contour well. The things I don't like: Fingernail marks Everything else I tried to make this a pancake with the inside as flat as possible by making the outer leather bigger than the inner. It almost worked but glueing the two different sized pieces together was a solid pain. I guess I'll open myself self up to any and all criticism. I really want to learn how to make holsters as a hobby and maybe even a side income of sorts to pad a retirement. Thanks, Pete
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