Sharpening Splitter Blades

[CitizenKate]

Here's one for you splitter experts. I bought a used Landis 30 a few months ago. It arrived in good working condition - well adjusted, blade was nice and sharp, etc. It has worked flawlessly until today. Now, it's starting to have problems feeding and splitting consistent thicknesses, so methinks it is time for me to learn how to sharpen the blade.

I found this thread elsewhere on the board: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...+model+30\ in which the original poster had a host of other problems with his splitter that may or may not have had anything to do with blade sharpness. But there were snippets of discussion about sharpening the blade.

I'm pretty sure I just have a blade going a bit dull, and after reading the - *ahem* - manual, I decided I'd better get the complete scoop from you guys on the best method to sharpen these hollow-ground blades.

There was some mention in the other thread about 1000-grit, 2000-grit, and 20 micron sandpaper. Where does one find such stuff? I sure don't find it at Home Depot!

Thanks!

Kate

[Hilly]

Here's one for you splitter experts. I bought a used Landis 30 a few months ago. It arrived in good working condition - well adjusted, blade was nice and sharp, etc. It has worked flawlessly until today. Now, it's starting to have problems feeding and splitting consistent thicknesses, so methinks it is time for me to learn how to sharpen the blade.

I found this thread elsewhere on the board: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...+model+30\ in which the original poster had a host of other problems with his splitter that may or may not have had anything to do with blade sharpness. But there were snippets of discussion about sharpening the blade.

I'm pretty sure I just have a blade going a bit dull, and after reading the - *ahem* - manual, I decided I'd better get the complete scoop from you guys on the best method to sharpen these hollow-ground blades.

There was some mention in the other thread about 1000-grit, 2000-grit, and 20 micron sandpaper. Where does one find such stuff? I sure don't find it at Home Depot!

Thanks!

Kate

You can get the sandpaper at any place that sells automotive paint supplies - Car Quest et al, or just ask any autobody shop, and they can point you in the right direction.

[CitizenKate]

Okay, got the sandpaper, and some allen wrenches to get the blade out. Can someone give me some pointers on the best method to sharpen this puppy?

Also, what kind of oil should I be using for this machine?

Kate

[bruce johnson]

Kate,

Some people have better luck maintaining a bevel angle by holding the blade and having whatever you sharpen against fixed on the bench. I don't. I leave my blade flat on the bench right at or just overlapping the edge. Then I use something long to sharpen with and work from the back edge of the blade. I prefer the DMT diamond stones with the plastic folding handles. One of my friends (we'll call him "Stub") was working a stone from the front and one of his former finger tips was gripping the side of the stone. On an push stroke the newly sharpened blade skived it off to about the first knuckle. You can also wrap and tape or staple fine sandpaper to a hardwood stick and work that from the back too. I strop and polish on the wheel.

Kind of my rule of thumb is to strop my splitter blades in use about once a week for sure. More often if I am using them heavy, and definitely right after if I have run some mulehide through one. Mulehide and a little moisture seem to cause insta-rust. For oil I use a mix of hydraulic jack oil and a little Prolong oil additive that was recommended for my sewing machines.

[CitizenKate]

I'll pick up a diamond stone on my next trip to the hardware store, but meanwhile the sandpaper mounted on a flat stick did the trick! Point well-taken about working from the back end vs. the front end. My splitter is working great again. This sure was a lot easier than it sounded in the manual. Thanks for the tips, Bruce!

Kate