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Lizard

Vinegaroon Shine?

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Hello all. I've been experimenting with vinegaroon here as of late and have a question. So far everything has been done on scraps laying around the shop. Heres my process, the roon is about two weeks old, dip scrap for about 2-3 min. comes out black as night, quick dip in BS bath and rinse with fresh water. I then let it dry for about one hour and apply EVOO and let that dry over night. The next day it gets a coat of Montana Pitch Blend followed by a light coat of Kiwi netural. Heres my problem, I'm not getting the shine from the Kiwi I get with dyed holsters. Also if I flex the leather even slightly the Kiwi cracks and leaves little chalky crack lines on the leather. The chalk lines can be buffed out somewhat but you can still see faint crack lines in the leather. I've never seen this in any of my dyed holsters and was just wondering how you folks finished your roon projects. As always, look forward to any advice.

Thanks

Steve

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I use a 50/50 mix, by weight of beeswax and neatsfoot oil. Tu. It in with mild heat from a heat gun then buff. Three coats for a good shine.

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Lizard, I used the same process you do up to and including the water rinse. Then I change it up a bit. I let the leather sit overnight to dry. Then I put pure neatsfoot oil on it . Let it sit overnight. Sew it up and prep it for forming. Dip it in water and a tablespoon of elmers glue and mix up in sink and dip the holster for a minute or two. Form it and let it dry overnight. (Or use heat, whichever you prefer). Put a coat of resolene mixed 50/50 with water. Then rub in a coat or two of Bluesman's mixture. (Neatsfoot/beeswax) . I've never used the Montana Pitch Blend but have heard good things. I don't look for a "shiny" holster, per se'. I rather have a less shiny holster these days as do my customers. I don't use the "vinegaroon" much these days as it seems to change the leather make-up so as it doesn't form and hold like the dyed pieces do. Hope this helps some. Regards. Semper-fi Mike

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Thanks for the info Bluesman and Marine MP. Marine MP I don't care for the bright shine either, I like a soft satin look. But I can't even get that with the rooned piece, kind a flat. I'll try some of the suggestions and keep experimenting. I definately won't do anything that matters until I get a handle on this thing.

Thanks again,

Steve

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For a medium shine, a little brighter than a matte but not police shiny I use 2 coats of Leather Balm w/Atom Wax. First I apply a coat of Olive Oil or Neetsfoot oil and let that soak in for at least 8 hours then rub it in well. Then I apply first coat.of Atom wax and allow it dry for an hour, buff it well and then apply second coat of Atom wax. I allow to dry over night then buff again. Looks great. Once A year I have the customer return the piece if they can and reapply a single coat of wax. Dry for 30 minutes and buff. Its a little customer service that makes it look great again and it doesnt cost me any real time or money. The customers seem to like the extra service and it gives me a chance to see if they need anything else made.

Michael

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Hello Steve,

I've been using Vinroon for quite a while now. First, when making a batch I let it sit until the steel wool stops dissolving in it. If the steel wool completely dissolves...add more. Mine usually sits for approx 4 weeks. I also know its finished when the smell has changed. It doesn't really smell like vinegar when its ready for use. Any ways after applying the vin-roon, I let it sit for a day. (Also I have applied it by dipping and wool daiber.....both work.) After sitting for a day I oil very liberally then it sits a second day. Last step I rub in a coat of Clear Lac and let dry then buff. I'll attach a picture of the most recent holster I used this technique on. If your looking for less shene...you could reduce the clear lac. The Lac on this holster is full strength.

Hope this helps,

Tom

post-29834-027967600 1336267275_thumb.jp

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