troop Report post Posted April 11, 2010 it has been a year since i made my first holster. i thought it would be fun to see the difference a year makes. i have heard others doubt their abilities after only a few tries. but i am here to tell you that if you just stick with it your leatherwork WILL improve. my first ever holster was for a walther PPK and was made from a tandy single shoulder in 6/7 oz. stitching was done by hand. it was finished with supersheen. my latest holster is for a 1911 Springfield and was made from W/C 8/10 oz. it is dyed with fiebings pro mohagany. and finished with bag kote. the stitching is done on my Cobra class 3. Jbird has been a real inspiration to me with his airbrushing. so i tried my airbrush for the first time and did the edges in black. looking forward to another year!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtclod Report post Posted April 11, 2010 Night and day difference for the good !! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
olliesrevenge Report post Posted April 11, 2010 Sweet holster dude! (Uh... the 2nd one ) ...and what a contrast from the 1st. Simple design, very nicely executed. It puts the bottom of the trigger guard right at the the top of the beltline - IMO right where it should be, and looks like it provides for a full firing grip before withdrawal. I just picked up the $70 airbrush at Harbor freight two days ago, and coincidentally, I just did my latest holster for a G26 in Fiebings pro mahogany w/ pro black trim. I had first seen that color scheme on one of Particle's avenger style holsters, and I really like the look. Your detail boning is awesome. I'm really noticing this stuff on other holsters now because detail boning is turning out to be a hurdle for me. I just cannot seem to "get it". The way your detail job goes beyond just simple lines tooled into the leather, and actually forms cleanly defined steps up and down from different "elevations" in the contours of the pistol is something that I have as of yet been unable to achieve. Now that I have a Tippmann Boss I am making several "detail practice" holsters, and I am going to take one of the free Tandy classes this Tuesday. Andy, the proprietor, has assured me he can help me with detail molding with his 30 + years of leather experience. Well see! Thanks for sharing. Lance Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dbusarow Report post Posted April 11, 2010 Way to go troop. I agree with you about jbird. He has been an inspiration to me as well. Just keep working and your work gets better. Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattsh Report post Posted April 11, 2010 Good Job Troop! That is a really neat contrast / feathering of the edge color. I like it. It is cool to see your progress. Keep up the good work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregintenn Report post Posted April 12, 2010 I like the first one! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigRiverLeather Report post Posted April 12, 2010 At first I said "No way am I contributing to this thread". Ah what the heck, I'll play. From about this time last year - A tuckable for my P220 carry with an aggressive cant, before finish. I finished this one up for a customer's P228 this weekend. This is the plain one of the two he ordered, the other is the same but for his 1911, Mahogany with Elephant trim, his BBQ rig Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troop Report post Posted April 13, 2010 thanks for the comments everyone, and nicely done Big River. love seeing the improvements. Tony Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jon Seeley Report post Posted November 30, 2010 Sweet holster dude! (Uh... the 2nd one ) ...and what a contrast from the 1st. Simple design, very nicely executed. It puts the bottom of the trigger guard right at the the top of the beltline - IMO right where it should be, and looks like it provides for a full firing grip before withdrawal. I just picked up the $70 airbrush at Harbor freight two days ago, and coincidentally, I just did my latest holster for a G26 in Fiebings pro mahogany w/ pro black trim. I had first seen that color scheme on one of Particle's avenger style holsters, and I really like the look. Your detail boning is awesome. I'm really noticing this stuff on other holsters now because detail boning is turning out to be a hurdle for me. I just cannot seem to "get it". The way your detail job goes beyond just simple lines tooled into the leather, and actually forms cleanly defined steps up and down from different "elevations" in the contours of the pistol is something that I have as of yet been unable to achieve. Now that I have a Tippmann Boss I am making several "detail practice" holsters, and I am going to take one of the free Tandy classes this Tuesday. Andy, the proprietor, has assured me he can help me with detail molding with his 30 + years of leather experience. Well see! Thanks for sharing. Lance I am also interested in developing detailed boning skills. Currently, I just use my thumbs to mold the holsters, which provides a good fit to the gun, but the aesthetics could be improved. Maybe Troop or some other people could let me know what tools you like to use for detailed boning. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rccolt45 Report post Posted November 30, 2010 I am also interested in developing detailed boning skills. Currently, I just use my thumbs to mold the holsters, which provides a good fit to the gun, but the aesthetics could be improved. Maybe Troop or some other people could let me know what tools you like to use for detailed boning. I agree, I would love to know what tools you use to get that perfect straight deep line and that perfect circle around the slide stop pin??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fredo Report post Posted December 1, 2010 Troop, thanks for posting this motivating post. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
troop Report post Posted December 1, 2010 thanks Jon RC and Fredo. actually i use the bottom of my rivet setter for just about the whole molding process. i use it on the ejection port, trigger,underneath the barrel and i use it and a ruler for the lines along the frame. i use the top (rivet setting side) for the circle around the slide stop pin. been wanting to get a real bone folder though and give that a try. Tony Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big O Report post Posted December 3, 2010 Very first holster, for a Springfield XD45 Tactical. Made from pre-dyed, pre-finished shoulder leather using ordinary nylon thread, holes punched and drilled, Total abomination - Latest holster for Kimber Gold Match. Made from shoulder leather, Fiebing's Walnut Leather Stain, Neatsfoot oil, and finished with 50/50 Resolene and water. Holes made using an awl, stitched with white Nyltex waxed thread. Somewhat less of an abomination - Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fredo Report post Posted December 14, 2010 BigO, nicely played Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
marine mp Report post Posted December 14, 2010 BigO, nicely played Some nicely done work, all of you. Just goes to show that staying the course does work!!!!! Semper-fi Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
