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CustomDoug

Can I Use A Smaller Machine Needle For 138 & 207 Thread ?

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I've been using a #23 needle for my 138 polyester and/or nylon thread and a #25 needle for my 207.

I don't care for the large-ish holes that are visible in the stitch row however... I was wondering if i could possibly drop the 138 thread down to a #19 (120/19) needle and for the 207 thread perhaps a #22 (140/22) needle?

I feel this would help hide the holes a lot better. But has anyone tried this at all? My threads are bonded and some say lubricated. I do not have #19 or #22 needles on hand at the moment and will order some if you guys think this is a possibility.

Doug C

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Yea, I've seen all of these charts.. I was basically trying to ask if anyone had found that they could go lower on the needle sizes with any success.

Doug C

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I use a 21 for 138 and 23 or a 24 with 207 depending on the leather.

Your 19 and 22 might be a little too small.

Dan

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I tried different tips and got better, smaller looking holes with "S" points

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For softer chrome tan garment leathers, a round point needle will give you tighter holes and more spi are possible. For vegtan, I prefer chisel or diamond points and longer stitches. The size of needle depends a lot on the firmness of the leather, ie; softer leather can be sewn with a smaller needle because the thread pulls through soft leather easier and the hole doesn't need to be as large. Denser leather may need a larger hole to allow the knot to pull up. Gump.

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I tried different tips and got better, smaller looking holes with "S" points

J hayes, do those "S" points leave a slanted appearance to the thread that is laid down? Looking at the Campbell Bosworth chart.. the thread appears to be slanted upward (S point picture) - I like that particular angle, can you confirm it's true?

I ask this because that same chart has the pictures of the LL and LR mixed up (or perhaps those are pics of the back side, or switched photgraphically somehow).

http://www.campbell-bosworth.com/supply/needles.html

Gump - yes I am sewing mostly soft thin chrome leathers, some chrome w/veg linings though. Anyway.. the round point needles that you are talking about, would that be the textile needles (135x17 in my case) rather than the leather specific needles (135x16) ? I'm not seeing a round point in the above chart. Is there some other letter designation I should look for? I'm using Schmetz and Groz Beckert (have not worked out a favorite yet). Thanks.

Doug C

Edited by CustomDoug

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post-29226-0-09551000-1414903540_thumb.j

Hope this helps. 277 top and bottom same stitch length on all aa is the tension. I like the Scmetz 25. These are all 794 system needles.

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Round point needles are described in Campbell's chart under " point". 135 x 17 is a round point and will not have any designation unless it is a special point. Gump.

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attachicon.gif20141101_234431.jpg

Hope this helps. 277 top and bottom same stitch length on all aa is the tension. I like the Scmetz 25. These are all 794 system needles.

J Hayes .. That is a huge help, thanks a ton for taking the time to make that sample up and post a picture of it. Think I'll try those "S' tips.

Doug C

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Round point needles are described in Campbell's chart under " point". 135 x 17 is a round point and will not have any designation unless it is a special point. Gump.

Gump, your statement has confused me a little bit (probably my fault, sorry).. because I'm not seeing any mention of 'round' in their chart at all. But I think you're suggesting a common 135x17 (non leather) needle (no special point) for sewing soft thin garment leathers, for tighter holes and more SPI. Right?

Doug C

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Doug; Sorry ,but its not in the chart , but the description labeled "points" in the text above the chart. And yes a round point forces open a hole instead of cutting one, therefor it closes up tighter and can be spaced closer without perforating the leather. Gump.

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