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Chief31794

Simple Guitar Strap

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The customer wanted a simple brown guitar strap with their name on it, here tis'.

Chief

post-6362-0-45593100-1407600621_thumb.jp

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Nice work as usual.

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Looks great Chief. Cheryl

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I am amazed when I see people who can dye just one side of the leather cleanly. That is definitely not a skill I possess.

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Nice work as usual.

Thanks Rohn.

Looks great Chief. Cheryl

Thanks Cheryl.

I am amazed when I see people who can dye just one side of the leather cleanly. That is definitely not a skill I possess.

Thanks Colt, I tape the back with blue painters tape and then dye the front, I use Rabbit Fur to apply the dye, normally dampen the leather with either destilled water or denatured alcohol, depending on what type of dye it is. With these antique dyes from Fiebings, I put it on pretty thick, then wipe it off with a clean cloth just before it drys and that sort of spreads the dye and basically makes it more consistent, then I wait about 1 minute and then rewipe the item with a dampened cloth with the same product I used to pre-dampen the leather, that removes some of the surface pigment and again spreads the dye a little to make it more consistent, it smooths out even more after it has thorughly dryed (about 12 hours), I put neatsfoot oil on with a cloth and that seems to help as well. After that dries (another 8-12 hours), then I normally use Clear Lac to seal it. Then I take the tape off the back, a little will get on the edges so I don't bevel the back until after it's dyed (I bevel the front before), beveling now removes the slight amount on the back edges and makes them appear trimmed. Hope that helps,

Chief

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Wow, what a great finish tutorial Chief- great tips!

Thanks!!!

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Wow, what a great finish tutorial Chief- great tips!

Thanks!!!

Thank you sir,

Chief

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Thanks Rohn.

Thanks Cheryl.

Thanks Colt, I tape the back with blue painters tape and then dye the front, I use Rabbit Fur to apply the dye, normally dampen the leather with either destilled water or denatured alcohol, depending on what type of dye it is. With these antique dyes from Fiebings, I put it on pretty thick, then wipe it off with a clean cloth just before it drys and that sort of spreads the dye and basically makes it more consistent, then I wait about 1 minute and then rewipe the item with a dampened cloth with the same product I used to pre-dampen the leather, that removes some of the surface pigment and again spreads the dye a little to make it more consistent, it smooths out even more after it has thorughly dryed (about 12 hours), I put neatsfoot oil on with a cloth and that seems to help as well. After that dries (another 8-12 hours), then I normally use Clear Lac to seal it. Then I take the tape off the back, a little will get on the edges so I don't bevel the back until after it's dyed (I bevel the front before), beveling now removes the slight amount on the back edges and makes them appear trimmed. Hope that helps,

Chief

That's good info. I haven't yet purposely tried to keep a clean side but noticed this weekend when I was dying my first purse on one side that I did get a few spots of dye on the flesh side. Now my intention was to line the flesh side with pig skin so it wasn't a problem for me, but it did get me to thinking that if I had wanted it just unfinished leather I would have screwed it up. Now I will employ your method when a project comes up that I only want one side dyed Thanks.

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That's good info. I haven't yet purposely tried to keep a clean side but noticed this weekend when I was dying my first purse on one side that I did get a few spots of dye on the flesh side. Now my intention was to line the flesh side with pig skin so it wasn't a problem for me, but it did get me to thinking that if I had wanted it just unfinished leather I would have screwed it up. Now I will employ your method when a project comes up that I only want one side dyed Thanks.

Thanks, one of the things I didn't mention, is that although the back is taped and you trim the edges, you may get a few small spots on the back particularly near the edges, I work hard to keep them off, when they get there and don't fall into the edge bevel area, I use a hand held skiver to gently remove them from the surface, then if necessary you can sand the back if you have to get a little deep but usually not.

Thanks,

Chief

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Chief,

Great looking strap and nice finish explanation! What weight leather did you use?

Tom

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Beautiful in its simplicity, very nice :)

Thanks,

Chief,

Great looking strap and nice finish explanation! What weight leather did you use?

Tom

Tom, Thanks for the comments, the strap is made from 6/7 oz.

Chief

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Hi Chief-

I just did a guitar strap. Used several of your finishing tips, including the painters tape on the back. I did leave the tape overnight, pulled it off after work, Problem: the tape stuck pretty well and "fuzzed" the flesh side. Any tips for making the fuzz lay down and stay down tight again?

Really appreciate the tips. I looked you up on you tube- would like to see you do a finishing tutorial too. Or anything else that you would like to share,

Enjoyed your instructions...

Thanks again!

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Hi Chief-

I just did a guitar strap. Used several of your finishing tips, including the painters tape on the back. I did leave the tape overnight, pulled it off after work, Problem: the tape stuck pretty well and "fuzzed" the flesh side. Any tips for making the fuzz lay down and stay down tight again?

Really appreciate the tips. I looked you up on you tube- would like to see you do a finishing tutorial too. Or anything else that you would like to share,

Enjoyed your instructions...

Thanks again!

Thanks eglideride,

Two things, 1) it matters which way you pull the tape (which direction), I start a corner and if it's pulling, I go to the other end. 2) it matters what leather you use, I always use Hermann Oak and the back is pretty clean and smooth to begin with. If you have one that is "fuzzed", then you can sand it lightly, going only in the direction the fibers lay and finally you could dampen it lightly and burnish it with a burnishing glass. I use one a lot for smoothing leather.

Hope that helps,

Chief

Edited by Chief31794

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Ahhh!

> Not Hermann Oak- I will have to check into that as time and experience allow.

> Common sense- pulling with the grain- Duh!

Thanks!

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really nice job on aligning the letters!!!!

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really nice job on aligning the letters!!!!

Thanks Pete.

Chief

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Great strap. Punching holes after dying is makers choice? Have you ever dyed the sides of the holes? Would look more finished to me..

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