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Kevin King

Wallet Construction Tutorial 2012

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I have changed up a few things and honed my skills since my last wallet tutorial, so I thought i'd make a new one.

This is going to be a mid-size long wallet. I have already done the custom work on the outside of the wallet, so this

is for the construction only.

Start with the pieces cut out.

post-3955-050759200 1331052868_thumb.jpg

Seam tape on pockets and fold over.

post-3955-065082200 1331052869_thumb.jpg

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I mark the placement of the tops of the pockets with a silver sharpie.

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Then sew starting with the top pocket.

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Sew the binding leather face down over edge of pockets. It's important to do opposite sides so you'll have a left and a right pocket.

post-3955-080792600 1331052876_thumb.jpg

post-3955-046151500 1331052878_thumb.jpg

post-3955-061400500 1331052882_thumb.jpg

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They should look like this.

post-3955-084974800 1331053126_thumb.jpg

Seam tape and fold over.

post-3955-031498300 1331053128_thumb.jpg

post-3955-042316900 1331053129_thumb.jpg

Then more seam tape and fold around to back of pockets.

post-3955-061822700 1331053132_thumb.jpg

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Stitch along edge to secure.

post-3955-036595000 1331053134_thumb.jpg

Then glue.

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Pockets ready to go.

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Glue in lining and trim.

post-3955-041098500 1331053141_thumb.jpg

post-3955-056948900 1331053142_thumb.jpg

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Sew pockets on wallet.

post-3955-065323000 1331053411_thumb.jpg

Time to bind it. I use a two inch wide piece of garment cowhide.

post-3955-017975200 1331053413_thumb.jpg

Sew along the edges.

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Trim corners.

post-3955-071850200 1331053417_thumb.jpg

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Seam tape and fold over.

post-3955-018919700 1331053420_thumb.jpg

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Sew along outer edge.

post-3955-097339400 1331053423_thumb.jpg

post-3955-056385200 1331053422_thumb.jpg

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It should look like this.

post-3955-019380300 1331053729_thumb.jpg

Trim. I can use what I trimmed away for another wallet.

post-3955-005035300 1331053730_thumb.jpg

And the finished product.

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post-3955-057855800 1331053812_thumb.jpg

post-3955-041305000 1331053809_thumb.jpg

Thanks for looking, and I hope this helps.

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Awesome tutorial! Thanks for sharing! When you trim the excess binding away - how do you trim it? Are you sliding something thin (like a credit card) under the material and cutting it with a knife? Or just scissors?

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Kevin thanks for the update on this tutorial. It is really nice of you to post this for the rest of us to use. For trimming the binding these might work pretty good.

http://www.allstitch...issors-1492.cfm

Awesome tutorial! Thanks for sharing! When you trim the excess binding away - how do you trim it? Are you sliding something thin (like a credit card) under the material and cutting it with a knife? Or just scissors?

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Awesome tutorial! Thanks for sharing! When you trim the excess binding away - how do you trim it? Are you sliding something thin (like a credit card) under the material and cutting it with a knife? Or just scissors?

I use an exacto knife.

Kevin thanks for the update on this tutorial. It is really nice of you to post this for the rest of us to use. For trimming the binding these might work pretty good.

http://www.allstitch...issors-1492.cfm

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I use an exacto knife.

And surgeon-like skills, freehand cutting binding that well takes some good control. :showoff:

Kevin, you mentioned using garment weight cowhide for the edge binding...what weight are you using for the pockets, etc?

Do you skive the pocket fold over areas, etc? I didn't see that mentioned but figure with a light enough leather you wouldn't need to.

Last question, is that a presser foot you purchased or an OEM you customized?

Excellent tutorial and great looking wallet. I'm envious of your stitch control on the designs & overlay pieces.

Keep up the great work,

Chris

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Kevin;

I have all of your tutorials and WIP posts bookmarked, and I refer to them constantly. THANK YOU for sharing with us.

Russ

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Very nice Kevin! Grandma taught me that binding for the edges, she does it the same way. She didn't remember what it is called (she's almost 97yrs young,ha) does anyone know what this type of binding is called? I need to make a foot like you have, it is hard for me to see what is going on with the foot I have on it now. Kevin, how do you lay out the stitch lines? I have tried a few different ways (pounce wheel and bag, stabilo pen, painters tape with design hand drawn and on and on) but there has to be a better way.

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Great Wallet Kevin! You got some mad sewing skills! Respect!

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Great Looking Wallet Kevin! Thanks so much for sharing your 'How To' with us!

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hi kev great wallets

wot are you using for you linings

and were can i get some

i live the the uk

and can only get pasley pattan bandandas

your,s are just the best

many thanks walletman (bob)

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You can find the seam tape at most hobby stores, and occasionally in walmart. It is the double sided tape, not the 'iron-on' type.

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Hi, very nicely done! What kind of leather is it you're using?

I'm making wallets out of veg tanned cow leather, but now i'm getting a lot of requests for wallets with coin pockets. Personally I think the wallet would become too thick if I made a coin pocket out of veg tan leather.

thanks!

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