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CTS

Members
  • Content Count

    3
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About CTS

  • Rank
    New Member
  • Birthday 07/09/1961

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.ctmusicstraps.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Pleasant Garden, NC
  • Interests
    Bible, Theology, Music, Arts, Crafts; Side business handcrafting leather instrument and stage accessories for musicians.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Custom Instrument Straps
  • Interested in learning about
    Other Leathercrafters, and techniques
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    Web search
  1. This may be covered on another thread and if so post the link. As much as I like the look and flexibility of Fiebings Acrylic Resolene, I am really tired of it NOT living up to it's claims and the HOURS of wasted time I spend with it. I make custom instrument straps for recording artists: Guitar, Banjo, Mandolin, etc. My clients need straps that they can flex, roll up, bend shove into a case and even play outdoors where they chance getting caught in an occasional rainstorm. I have been working leather since the 1970s and have used such products as Omega, Neat, Tandy Pro, Fiebings, and Eco-Flow dyes, and antiques. I have used Neat-Lac, Satin Shene, Super Shene, Neat Shene, as well as Acrylic Resolene. Neat Lac does not allow much flexibility and after a short time you get a wrinkled, crackled finish that needs to be re-done. All of the "shenes" and "Resolenes" I have used give a nice Satin Finish - which I like, but the bottom line they all remove color (even the ones that say they do not) and if you only use a few light coats, water still washes off color or spots the finish so bad it has to be re-done. I need a top coat finish FOR LEATHER that is FLEXIBLE, gives some Satin Shine, DOES NOT remove the hours of applying detailed colors and stains I worked to achieve, and one that is REALLY WATER REPELLANT. I need to know how long it will hold up. My clients don't have time to keep re-applying or conditioning a strap every few weeks or so as some conditioners recommend. If some of you know of such a finish, that can be applied BY HAND. Please let me know. Thanks! ~CT
  2. Question on this subject. I think I understand the process and the acid levels, etc. It looks great from what I have seen. Some of you mentioned you have used this method for years. Have you had any feedback from any clients or do you have an article that you have had for many years that was colored with this method? I want to know (1) Does it do some long term damaging effects to the leather (like over 5-10 yrs does it break down the leather fibers or cause excessive cracking, drying)? (2) Does the black color fade over the years - especially when exposed to light or elements? I did not notice any products that had top coats added. Does it work well with finishes in case a client wants a Satin finish over the black? Thanks for all input and ideas! ~CT
  3. Thanks for the tip. I handcraft leather instrument straps. I have been using Tandy, and Fiebings products since the 1970s, even used the Omega dyes back then. Now I also use some Eco-flow stuff. I rarely get a request for black either, but I had a recent order for two almost identical black leather straps with "gold lettering" (the gold work is another story). So to get better penetration and guard against scratches I dipped the straps in Fiebings Black dye. I allowed to dry, buffed and then dipped a 2nd time. I buffed and buffed and thought all was off. You could wipe it with a wool pad, paper towel or sponge and it seemed pretty color fast. Then I tried buffing with a wash cloth and I kept getting rub off. I "blackened" about 3 cloths all over before I was done and that was for the first strap. After doing both straps HOURS had went by. I was never so frustrated. With that behind me, I started applying coats of Fiebings Acrylic Resolene and though I usually do that successfully, I must have applied a few heavy coats, because before long in some places I could buff briskly and peel the clear finish right off, so I gave things an alcohol scrub, and started buffing out again. This time I continued to get rub off in those places. I reapplied more LIGHT coats of Resolene. I only hope all stays on because my clients also play at outdoor festivals and chances of getting wet do happen. I know that even with mahogany (though there is not much rub off) you get "bleeding" even applying the Resolene and after several light coats, you also get color off if you run a small amount of water over the project. I am frustrated with products that say they will "not alter color" and claim to be "water repellant" when they in fact are NOT. I did a recent strap with mahogany color and after about 20 coats finally got the tough as nails finish I desired. I have never had an easy time with BLACK. I am willing to check out this Bick #4 product you spoke of. I also remember reading somewhere of a better top coat finish than the Resolene....will check both out. Thanks! CT
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