'english' Bridle.

[Birdman]

The forum 'Search' engine seems to be a bit hit and miss, but I have not found any posts that discuss the actual measurements for a correctly fitting English Bridle. When correctly made and fitted, all the buckles should be on the middle hole and in a line.

Larros pictures below ( of his very fine work) display this admirably.

http://leatherworker...=1( For some reason the full link will not attach HELP!)

Idealy you should measure the horse yourself! Take a measurement from the corner of the mouth over the head to the other mouth corner. Wrinkle the corners to simulate the bit. This is called theCORNER TO CORNER measurement.

We then have to do some maths to get the OVERALL measurement.

As an example, if the CORNER TO CORNER is 46" long then we have to deduct something to allow for the rings of the bit. If using a traditional english snaffle, it will have 3" rings. So deduct 2 X 1 1/2 " ( allowing for each ring).

This gives us an OVERALL measurement of 43".

Obviously bit rings is a variable and will heve to be accounted for!

Alternativly use a part bridle.....headstrap and cheeks with the bit fitted and adjust till a fit is obtained. This is now your OVERALL.

So now, refer to the MADE UP CHART below.

A quick word on the left column.....Hand size. 14.2, 16 15 etc are just figures you could number them 12345 etc or call them apples and bannanas. The do relate to a hand size and head size of horses from a past age, before the influence of the Arabian horse in breeding. This influence has resulted in smaller heads for a given horse height. The chart still holds true, as the relative proportions of a horses head have not changed. As an example, A 16.2 Thoroughbred will probably need a bridle for a 14.2 on the chart.

Here are The Formulas that you can use to do what the chart has done for you.

Cheeks-made up size:

OVERALL minus Head divide by 2 add 1/2 split= ?

Cheeks cut size:

OVERALL minus Head divide by 2 add 1/2 split = ??

Noseband Headstrap made up size:

Head plus Cheek minus 1/2 split minus 1" for sitting above the bottom of the cheek =?

Noseband Headstrap cut size----as above, now allowances.

Noseband Headstrap Cheek madeup size:

Made up Cheek minus 1" for sitting above =?

Noseband Headstrap Cheek cut size: Made up cheek size minus 1" plus 1 1/2"

Or in another way add 1/2" to made up cheek size!

Now you are wondering, he has slipped in something called Cut Size here? Have faith. Here is the Cut Size chart!

You will note that the FRONT ( Brow band) column is empty. This because until you have decided the width of your headpiece, you cannot decide the cit size for the Front. So Use the Made Up size and add the 2 loops (over the Headpiece) 2 x 1/2" for the bend and 2 x 1" for the stiching.

Edited May 6, 2012 by Birdman

[Birdman]

CUT SIZE CHART.

These cut sizes make allowances for l the turns and stiching at buckle ends, the turns and billet ends of reins and cheeks etc etc

[Birdman]

More notes.................

All billet ends are 4 1/2"

All billet hook chapes are 2 1/2"

Nose band buckle chape is 3"

ACCURACY IS ESSENTIAL WITH CHAPES!

Noseband point is 4 1/2" plus another 1" for scalloping down to point width. Buckle holes are 1 1/2 from point then 5 holes 5/8" apart.

All other buckes are 1" stiching with 1/2" allowed for the turn.

Buckle holes for headpiece start 1 5/8" from point and are always an odd number ( to give a halfway) For most bridles 9 holes @ 5/8" will be right. Small bridles may need 7.

Any oddities, measure a mid point and do the maths.

Make one rein ( the point ended one) 3/4" longer (CUT SIZE) than the other ( buckle end) to allow for scalloping to the point and ensuring when made up they are of equal length.

Browband (Front) stiching is 1 1/2".

All bends are 1/2" and have been allowed for in the charts.

On the Made Up Chart, right hand column, you will find my notes for making laced reins. When making laced reins, tighten the lacing as you work so that the rein gently wrinkles or corrugates. When in use, the rein will stretch and straighten and this prior tightening will stop the lacing from ending up loose. Enjoy!

[CeilingUnlimited]

I just wanted to point out a couple of very important key points you must also take into consideration. There really is no true truth to the fact that a properly fitted English bridle must have the buckles set on the middle hole. The reason being is that not all horses go in the same type of bit all the time,and depending on the type of bit used including the width of the mouthpiece and most importantly the bit ring size,the ring size of the bit is going to dictate the cheek piece buckle adjustment. For example...a larger ring bit will require a higher adjustment of the buckle on the cheek piece,and a lower adjustment (to make up the difference) for a smaller ring bit. Now depending on the ring size,generally there is only a 1-3 hole difference (depending on the buckle hole spacing) along with if there is a wider or narrower mouthpiece.So that is something you have to consider. Horses that may use a Pelham or Weymouth bit,will require an even much lower adjustment,depending on how high or low the purchase is on those particular bits (which Pelham's & Weymouth bits are pretty commonly used) I find that horse size crowns for light breeds with cob size cheeks fits Weymouth and Pelham bits perfectly which puts the buckle more in the middle of the cheek piece. For Warmblood breeds definately horse size to small draft size all the way around,but an actual measurement is a must for horses that have a larger head,that a standard horse size bridle won't fit.

[CeilingUnlimited]

One more thing I forgot to mention. The caveson buckle should lay above or below the cheek piece buckle,because the caveson nose band generally should lay two fingers below the horse's cheek bone.However,some horses may require a slightly higher or lower nose band setting in order for the caveson to do its job effectively. Remember,every horse is different,so no not all the buckles must be aligned perfectly together on the side of the horse's head. For some horses they do come pretty close to being together. Another important thing you don't want...is the buckles hitting each other,rubbing or possibly pinch the side of the horse's cheek. So a properly fitted English Bridle must be properly adjusted to fit the horse's bit/bits he is wearing in his mouth.

Edited December 17, 2012 by CeilingUnlimited

[Birdman]

Sorry about the delayed response. For some reason the usual email notification did not happen and I do not check in very often. The sites mechanics are so frustrating.

You are quite right in you point about the bit ring size. I should have made clear that the chart is for an English Snaffle Bridle, and this side of the pond, the snaffle bit has a standard ring size. (Except race snaffles which are larger.)

The rule is to measure the corner to corner and deduct accordingly the ring sizes.

ie If the corner to corner measurement is 46", then allow 1 1/2 " either side for a snaffle bit with 3" rings, = 43". Divide by 2 to get the 'hang'

Alternativly, use an old headpiece and cheeks with the intended bit to get the measurement.

Then find on the chart a hang size that is nearest your result. In this example "16h" Then, if no other accurate confirming measurements are available re noseband/browband/throat, follow the measurements on the chart. The bridle will fit regardless of the horses breed or size, unless it is a a 'one in thousands', in which case your confirmation measurements will throw up a warning.

I note your comment on the cavesson fitting. The chart and formula are for a cavesson fitted and sitting 1" above the bit and allowing two fingers (flat) spacing.

Traditionally, for the English show ring, the buckles of the bridle do have to be all on the middle holes and therefore in a straight line. If correctly measured, made and fitted they will be. A horses head changes size uniformly.

The chart and above formulas have been used for a few centuries. It holds true in 99.9% of cases, regardless of actual size or breed. See origional post.

You are also correct in that not all horses go in the same bit all the time. Owners do chop and change bits for some reason.

This is a chart/formula for making a bespoke upmarket bridle, NOT A STANDARD FIT full/cob/pony bridle. Every horse is different ( as you say) that is why the chart has 13 size divisions and the formulas can always be used for any sizes not found in those divisions.

If the purchaser wishes to change the bit/ring size, then they will either have to put up with the bridle not being a true fit (in show terms) with that bit, but an 'altered to fit' (in practical terms), OR better still, buy a second bespoke bridle!

I hope this has resolved some of your concerns, do get back if there are any others.