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cheepo63

Tip For Us With A Cheap Stitching Pony

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Hi

I bought me a stitching pony and that really helped me with my stitching. But I didnt like the wingnut that you fasten your work with. The whole thing rotated when you tried to tighten it. The wing itself was to small and kept hurting my my fingers.

So I came up with an idea, why not use one of those quick release bolts you have on bicycles. So I have ordered one of those and will try it and if it works well I'll let you know (pretty sure it will).

Here is picture of how it looks like

post-39948-0-27748100-1365604445_thumb.j

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Came and gone with this idea. This thing is now sitting in the excess bolt drawer. Good luck. Hope it works for you.

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Sounds like a good idea but I think you will find that your lace or thread will catch on the handle

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I think the stroke of the bicycle bolt is too short. The jaws of the stitching pony won´t open enough to be useful. The wooden version looks better.

/ Knut

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I think a cam lever clamp will be the best option as well and they are pretty cheap. http://www.amazon.com/CAM-ACTION-HOLD-DOWN-CLAMP/dp/B000KUXOTE/ref=pd_cp_hi_1

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I changed the bolt for a longer one, but like Lesking said......it will catch.

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I used a cam nut from Rockler when I built mine.

post-34211-0-76124800-1365768058_thumb.j

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I used a cam nut from Rockler when I built mine.

Thats how I want it to work. Lets see if the bolt I bought will work. Well it only set me back 3 bucks so no big harm if it dont.

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Here are a couple of mods I made to my Tandy stitching pony.

post-23953-0-07393700-1379001057_thumb.j

post-23953-0-83005200-1379001124_thumb.j

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Thanks for the tips and ideas. I though I was the only one who had problems with the thread catching on the wing nut. :)

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I made a "spoked nut" that fits between the clamp jaws that you rotate to open / close the jaws; nothing to catch on, at least on the outside.

StitchingPony_6_zps40f0c361.jpg

StitchingPony_4_zpse26426b6.jpg

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GerryR i like your idea can you show a more detailed picture of the parts needed please I'd like to make something similar?

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The spoked nut is made from 1-1/2 inch diameter aluminum (6061) stock and is 2-1/2 inches long ( the distance between the jaws). The center diameter is 1 inch long by 1-1/2 inches in diameter, and the outer lengths have been turned down to 1 inch diameter (mainly for appearance), and are ¾ inch long each. One end is drilled and tapped 3/8-16 x 5/8 deep for the shoulder screw and the other end is drilled through to the other hole and tapped 5/16-18 for the carriage bolt.

The shoulder screw is ½ x ½ with a head thickness of ¼ inch. This goes into the fixed jaw, which is drilled through with a ½ inch diameter hole and then counter-bored ¼ inch deep x ¾ inch diameter to accommodate the head of the shoulder screw. When installed in the jaw, the shoulder screw is tightened hard against the spoked nut and should turn freely with the nut, as the nut is turned. If it doesn’t turn freely, make the counter-bore a little deeper.

The moveable jaw is drilled through with a 5/16 inch hole for the carriage bolt and counter-bored to accept the head so that it is flush, or slightly below, the surface. The carriage bolt is 1-3/4 inches long.

The spokes are 2 inches long x ¼ inch diameter steel dowel pins and are pressed into the center hub of the spoked nut, 120 degrees apart.

When assembling, screw the carriage bolt side all the way in first, and then install the shoulder screw.

That’s about it; pretty straight forward.

Pictures:

SpokedNut_zps9dbc0e4d.jpg

JawsShowingFixedandHingedSide_zps959b2b57.jpg

ShoulderBoltinFixedSide_zps6847d964.jpg

CarriageBoltinMoveableSide_zpsef36ac52.jpg

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Thanks GerryR for your help i get the the principle , appreciate your help .

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