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Flattracker

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About Flattracker

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    London
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    Motorbikes

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  1. Securing it is key. Thanks Wild Bill46, a good few learning hours ahead of me. Good stuff. Thank you.
  2. Ahhh, thanks Penguineer. That's exactly it, thread wrap around. I'll search on whipping now. Big thanks
  3. There is probably a proper term for this which I don't know which is why I can't find the answer hah! I need to make a wallet lanyard but not in a braid... it'll be out of 8mm leather cord with a wrap around the hardware at each end. So the fold over needs to be securely tied off at each end with a neat thick/flat thread or lace/rawhide? I've seen examples where you can't really see where the tie off starts & finishes, it looks real tidy and is something I'm aiming for but no idea where to start. Apologies if there's a thread on the forum for this already, I had a search but couldn't find anything. Any help much appreciated.
  4. Thanks Wiz & Darren. Can't wait to get going on the machine. The thread shade card gives me 15+ shades of brown and I'm dithering but nearly there! I foresee lots of machine thread type experimentations ahead of me, all good fun.
  5. Thanks Darren, I'll look into that. I've found a good source of sewing machine threads in the UK and they've even sent me a thread shade card for Coats with the actual thread which is great. The place is called Astra Threads, worth a check if in the UK I guess. Thanks all
  6. Thanks Wiz, Choosing between bonded nylon or polyester I thought would be the issue, it may still be but after more reading/searching, seems maybe not so! I've been trying to find someone who sells Tkt30 (is that 92 T90 in the USA?) thread in London or even the UK which appears to be a much bigger stumbling block. I find it odd that 2 big industrial machine sellers in south & west London only sell up to Tkt 40 thread (69 T70). Is it that big an issue going up to a 19/120 needle from an 18/110? The place I bought the flatbed walking foot from gave me 2 rolls of Perma Core Polyester Corespun Tkt 36 Tex 80. It was almost there in thickness but just looked wrong on the leather, too thin,flaky. Abbey England are a possible place for threads but surely there must be others around London I can collect from!?? Still searching..... overs
  7. Hi and thanks bkm. Fully agree, I use Barbour Linen thread and wax it for all my hand stitched leatherwork. It's for the sewing machine I'm not 100% on. I was doing some more reading this morning...... would this be right; Nylon or Bonded Nylon variant threads are stronger than Polyester and would deal with seams and if exposed would deal with rain better than a Polyester machine thread. Polyester threads look more natural than nylon and so on any top stitching projects or visible stitching (both sides) with a contrast colour thread a Polyester thread would look more natural against the leather. Thanks
  8. First though I definitely need to re-introduced myself having been away for far too many months with the hand stitching. I got some great guidance here many months ago and went out and bought a cylinder arm. It didn't work out for me for what I eventually figured out what I wanted to make so I went back to the hand stitching which I know & love and the machine sat in the corner for months unplugged. What a waste. A new bag project came along recently needing a machine, so fired it up and found out I really needed a flatbed for overall control especially on lightweight non leather & leather to be honest. I just couldn't get a straight line on it or slow it down enough. So just sold the cylinder arm and today bought a walking foot flatbed. It instantly feels exactly what I need for the plans I have, my ying yang on high. I thought about keeping the cylinder arm but space is very tight at present. Thickness of thread for the flatbed machine I'm about ok on, but I am confused a lot on the type of thread for machines. Over the last 12 months I've acquired; Perma Core Polyester Corespun Nylbond Bonded Twisted Nylon Polyester Cotton Corespun I guess there are even more types Just random guess purchases and mostly wrong! None of the leather products I'll be making are under big stress, non leather items will be under general bag stress. Any guidance on thread options are most welcome. Thanks
  9. I've not done a folded leather edge trim before to finish off the edges of a canvas tool roll. I've tried some sheep leather, it's turned nicely round the corners of the tool roll but I've had to cut 4 pieces! The multiple joins don't look good though. What do you use for this type of finish, do you cut ever decreasing circles from the sheep hide or is there a cheaper alternative out there already cut for this job. I've been googling but mainly come up with bias binding and very expensive "per metre" faux leather which also isn't wide enough for what I need, 25-30mm. I'd thought about using the canvas, cutting strips to edge it but it's a twill and frays and too thick to fold over (maybe?) Thanks all
  10. Just wanted to say thanks Tom. I've tamed the beast! At least for now! It's working a treat now and more importantly now I understand what the threads are doing with your explanation, many thanks.
  11. Thanks man, That's making a lot of sense. It's late here so I'll get experimenting with tension tomorrow. Big thanks
  12. Great! Progress! I put the new #18 needle in, the one I took out is a Beka 130/21. I did a test stitch run but still no real tension in the stitch. So I turned the upper thread tension (spring) nut clockwise and did a test run and instantly I can now see on the top stitch that the pink bobbin thread has been pulled through so I can see little pink dots of thread. This is good right!? Or have I put too much tension on the top thread? Do you think the 130/21 needle was too big for the size of thread (UK #40) US #69. If the top stitch (needle thread) sits too high, is it adjusted by increasing the tension on the little bobbin screw? Thanks all & Bob. Richard
  13. Ah yes, it's a Wimsew W-246 Cylinder bed unison feed. The black thread has a label IPCA Bond CB40 100% PA. I think that makes it equivalent to a US #69 size. As for the needle, I don't know what size it is. It seemed to be stitching fine when I first got the machine but it's all going wrong at present! I did pick up a small box of Schmetz needles ranging in size 18 through to 22. Thanks all
  14. Well not wanting it to beat me, I've been testing with a loud pink bobbin thread to see more what's happening. This time using some calf leather, the first runs are furthest away. You can hopefully see that the top thread is sitting up high! How do I adjust this? The underside seems to be getting better, I backed off a little on the bobbin screw tension and also slackened off the big top adjusting screw for the walking foot. I'm confused now though on the bobbin. Should it turn clockwise or anti-clockwise when looking at it with the cover off? Thanks all.
  15. Hi, I'm having a bit of trouble with the machine stitches on my cylinder arm as you can see! It starts off slow ok then the underside ends up looking like this or completely overloaded with thread. I'm stitching waxed cotton. When I take the bobbin out, the thread has un ravelled itself inside the bobbin. I've been trying to figure out what's causing it but not sure and don't want to start really messing about with adjustments and make things even worse if at all possible. Any help would be great, if it's un ravelling does it mean the bobbin thread is too loose? Thanks all.
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