Jump to content
jlrowe

How Effective Is Hot Dipping Veg Tan In Paraffin Or Bees Wax?

Recommended Posts

Got a few questions:

1. I usually use just Resolene at probably 70% and when dry brush and apply parrafin wax like a using kiwi shoe polish and have got great results for the short term. But I was wondering about hot dipping would it be a lot more effective in waterproofing?

2. Should hot dip be done before or after dye? I know i could just order bridle or harness leather but i usually stamp or tool veg tan.

3. Also on the other end of the spectrum, is there a way to keep the natural color of great quality leather without darkening it? Even if i just apply Resolene, it darkens the leather somewhat (example shown in pic) The dog collar is done just with Resolene.

post-34661-0-37579400-1447537926_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Back when I was doing a lot of hunting and camp knives and sheaths, I used to get a lot of calls for that. I used a 60/40 mix of neatsfoot and beeswax at about 160F if I remember right. Remember to put a hole in the bottom of the sheath for the water to run out. It worked very well, but haven't had a call for something like that in at least 15 years.

Art

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I melt beeswax into veg tan all the time, I love the look it gives afterwards when you use the leather. Been doing that for about 2 years now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Back when I was doing a lot of hunting and camp knives and sheaths, I used to get a lot of calls for that. I used a 60/40 mix of neatsfoot and beeswax at about 160F if I remember right. Remember to put a hole in the bottom of the sheath for the water to run out. It worked very well, but haven't had a call for something like that in at least 15 years.

Art

Hey Art is that 60% NF and then 40 Beeswax? I think i will give it a try.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I melt beeswax into veg tan all the time, I love the look it gives afterwards when you use the leather. Been doing that for about 2 years now.

Thanks tossik i think im going to give it a try. Do you dye or just leave yours natural?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Art is that 60% NF and then 40 Beeswax? I think i will give it a try.

Correct, 60% NF, but you can vary it a bit, more on the NF side I think. I used to have an old turkey roaster (electric with a cloth cord so it had to be '50s vintage). I would put the whole thing in for 15 seconds or more, pull it out and hang it up to drain. The formulation for NF has probably changed some in that time, but it will be somewhat the same.

Art

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I weigh it out, . . . equal portions of virgin bees wax (got my own virgin bees :cowboy: ), . . . and neats foot oil.

Stick it in a jar, . . . stick the jar in my Salvation Army $10 crock pot with enough water to float the jar, . . .

Turn it on, . . . when the concoction is a nice runny liquid, . . . I set out muffin papers in a muffin pan, . . . pour the concoction into the muffin papers, . . . let it cool.

When I want to use it then, . . . grab a hunk of it in the muffin paper, . . . rub it anywhere you want to waterproof something. It DOES lightly darken the leather.

I also rub some on, . . . hit it with the heat gun to melt it into the leather, . . . do that until I get the finish I want, . . . shines like new copper penny.

May God bless,

Dwight

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a question regarding finishes like this. I prefer the look of the wax finish over the shiny resolene finish. I also noticed it gives the leather an almost "pull up" charecteristic when using this finish. My question is. Since it's a mixture between wax and nf oil is there any further conditioned needed for the leather? Oil before the wax/oil combo. Oil after wax/oil combo or is oiling no longer necessary since your using a mix of oil/wax.

Also, is the oil/wax good as a finish just on its own?

I should add, I'm referring to more the wax/oil combo you rub on then melt into the leather with a heat gun.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a question regarding finishes like this. I prefer the look of the wax finish over the shiny resolene finish. I also noticed it gives the leather an almost "pull up" charecteristic when using this finish. My question is. Since it's a mixture between wax and nf oil is there any further conditioned needed for the leather? Oil before the wax/oil combo. Oil after wax/oil combo or is oiling no longer necessary since your using a mix of oil/wax.

Also, is the oil/wax good as a finish just on its own?

I should add, I'm referring to more the wax/oil combo you rub on then melt into the leather with a heat gun.

Most of my work is CCW leather, . . . prone to being sweated upon profusely, . . . so I routinely use a 50/50 mixture of Resolene and water on them.

On certain special pieces, . . . they get the NF / Beeswax treatment, . . . apply / rub / heat gun, . . . repeat, . . . repeat as necessary, . . . and finally buff to the luster you want.

My western rig for my SAA Beretta .45 LC is done that way, . . . love it.

But I've never added oil to the rig since I finished it. It's only 6 or 8 years old, . . . should be good for another 50 anyway, . . . maybe one of my great grand nephews will toss it then.

May God bless,

Dwight

Edited by Dwight

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have always used a neatsfoot / beeswax / parafin wax mixture in the 60/40 ratiio, but in addition use a few drops of eucalyptus oil which prevents mould.

Lois

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have always used a neatsfoot / beeswax / parafin wax mixture in the 60/40 ratiio, but in addition use a few drops of eucalyptus oil which prevents mould.

Lois

Never thought about that....great tip!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does the eucalyptus oil leave enough of a scent to be noticable??

Bill

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Eucalyptus is definitely noticeable, although it has a very low flash point. 118 F, if I remember correctly, but don't quote me. If you apply the mixture with added heat, most of the volatiles evaporate away. Orange oil is another anti-mold essential oil, and it has an equally low flashpoint.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've heard pure Cedar Oil is a good mold deterrent. To me it has a very pleasant smell as well.

This is not from experience, but something I read somewhere.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I make a lot of waxed canvas and leather bags. I have a mix of 60% beeswax and 40% oil that I use- and the last batch was done with sweet almond oil. I always put in 0.5% rosemary essential oil because it is a natural antibacterial/preservative, and makes everything smell wonderfully pine-scented.

This 'recipe' developed as it did because I make many of my own skin products- scrubs, shea butter, soap, lotion, lip balm, et cetera. I do not sell stuff anymore, so I don't send it off to the FDA to be tested- but I preferred rosemary to germicides in my skin stuff. No rosemary EO for pregnant women, please!

I have a bag that has been carried for 8 years by my spouse, who is Air Force. Of course, I don't know everywhere this bag has been, but he has put it thru the wringer. I used Horween straps/flaps/tabs, and have had to replace a couple of snaps with carabiniers. I just re-waxed it this winter, and it is holding up well. I love the patina of beat-up waxed canvas!

to make a long story short, I have stopped doing my canvas first and then sewing my bag. It is easier on my equipment to make the bag first, including leather. Then, I wipe on my soft smooshy oil mix, grab the heat gun, and melt it into the fabric and leather.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I make a lot of waxed canvas and leather bags. I have a mix of 60% beeswax and 40% oil that I use- and the last batch was done with sweet almond oil. I always put in 0.5% rosemary essential oil because it is a natural antibacterial/preservative, and makes everything smell wonderfully pine-scented.

This 'recipe' developed as it did because I make many of my own skin products- scrubs, shea butter, soap, lotion, lip balm, et cetera. I do not sell stuff anymore, so I don't send it off to the FDA to be tested- but I preferred rosemary to germicides in my skin stuff. No rosemary EO for pregnant women, please!

I have a bag that has been carried for 8 years by my spouse, who is Air Force. Of course, I don't know everywhere this bag has been, but he has put it thru the wringer. I used Horween straps/flaps/tabs, and have had to replace a couple of snaps with carabiniers. I just re-waxed it this winter, and it is holding up well. I love the patina of beat-up waxed canvas!

to make a long story short, I have stopped doing my canvas first and then sewing my bag. It is easier on my equipment to make the bag first, including leather. Then, I wipe on my soft smooshy oil mix, grab the heat gun, and melt it into the fabric and leather.

OK, . . . we've got orange oil, . . . cedar oil, . . . eucalyptus oil, . . . and now, rosemary.

Question 1: Where do all you folks find these things?

Question 2: How much do they cost?

Question 3: How much do you use , . . . weight? ratio? measured?

That would be good information to have.

May God bless,

Dwight

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can get essential oils at my local "head shop". There's a store here called Earth Mother Health Food that sells all manner of vitamins, herbs, specialty foods, specialty soaps, etc. Among their inventory is food grade essential oils. Your local wal-mart may or may not have them. Candle scents are not the same thing as essential oils.

Or if you are so inclined, make your own by grinding a plant to a pulp, soak it in alcohol, then strain the alcohol and either bottle that, or mix with olive oil, then bottle it. Most of the antifungal essential oils have a very low flashpoint, so it mat not be wise to heat them.

*edit*

A 1 oz bottle will cost approx $5-$8. I don't remember how much I used, but it is approx 1 drop per 1 oz of oil/fat. A little goes a long way with essential oils. I've never measured precisely how much I drop in. I just guess each time.

Edited by huffdad

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

http://www.chemistrystore.com/

is my favorite vendor. They can also explain the difference, for instance, between Rosemary Oleoresin and Rosemary essential oil. Also a great source for palm oil, shea butter, or anything else to make your spouse happy. 'Body Butter' at a fancy store is 25-30 bucks, and I make it literally for 3 bucks. Using pure ingredients and no chemicals.


Oh, and I would put my waxed canvas up against Filson or any of the other expensive brands in a heart-beat. Just be careful in really hot climates...

Edited by makitmama

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Y'all know if anyone makes a leather scented essential oil? I love the smell of leather but it tends to fade. I'd love to treat my leather to keep that scent for longer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dorado, I do not know if anyone makes a leather scent. To be technical, there is no such thing as a leather essential oil. Essential oils are extracted from plants, via maceration then extraction into alcohol and/or oil. I have heard it said that cod liver oil can help to recreate the smell of the original fat liquor, but I haven't been able to duplicate the smell. Maybe it's a question of how much, or maybe it's a question of which ingredients to mix for a leather treatment. Cold hard facts are hard to find regarding such recipes, as tanneries don't like to divulge their proprietary formulas.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dorado, I do not know if anyone makes a leather scent. To be technical, there is no such thing as a leather essential oil. Essential oils are extracted from plants, via maceration then extraction into alcohol and/or oil. I have heard it said that cod liver oil can help to recreate the smell of the original fat liquor, but I haven't been able to duplicate the smell. Maybe it's a question of how much, or maybe it's a question of which ingredients to mix for a leather treatment. Cold hard facts are hard to find regarding such recipes, as tanneries don't like to divulge their proprietary formulas.

Oh I know that much. I was just curious if there was a way to keep that smell for longer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

there are some 'tobacco flower' and tobacco leaf scents that are wonderful- very masculine, and I am positive that they are blended into the 'new leather' scent you see in some car products. Contact the company I linked above and ask them what they recommend to smell like new leather- they are great folks to work with.

note- these tobacco scents smell nothing like cigarettes, which surprised me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...