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George B

First Horsehide Avenger For 1911

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This is my first horsehide holster Avenger style.

5 oz. outer with 4 oz. veg tan lining.

Eco-Flo Timber brown dye.

Only thing I didn't like was how the white thread picked up some color when I used Leather balm on it.

Making one for my XD40 and one for a customer with an XD40 Sub Compact with aftermarket laser sight.

Not lining them anymore as I didn't see the need for it.

Also, just as your opinion...is it really necessary for the average customer to spend too much time on finishing the edges? Seems to cut into my profit vs time spent.

Thanks for looking.

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Looks great! I really like the color.

Burnished edge looks nice. Regarding your question - I've gotten multiple customers specifically comment about my burnished edges being nicely done, and they always compare them to the big, major makers. I think there is an opportunity for different price levels. Some people just want a quick, cheap holster that's still well made - they may not care about the detail boning and burnished edges. Others will. Nothing wrong with offering a couple different pricing levels.

The Leather Balm is bad about lifting color and staining thread. I wouldn't use it unless my thread was darker than my dye.

It looks like you didn't pre-form your belt tunnel. Have you tried sliding a 1/4" thick gun belt through it?

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Looks great! I really like the color.

Burnished edge looks nice. Regarding your question - I've gotten multiple customers specifically comment about my burnished edges being nicely done, and they always compare them to the big, major makers. I think there is an opportunity for different price levels. Some people just want a quick, cheap holster that's still well made - they may not care about the detail boning and burnished edges. Others will. Nothing wrong with offering a couple different pricing levels.

The Leather Balm is bad about lifting color and staining thread. I wouldn't use it unless my thread was darker than my dye.

It looks like you didn't pre-form your belt tunnel. Have you tried sliding a 1/4" thick gun belt through it?

Thanks you Particle,

I've come to same conclusion about the thread being darker than the dye id I use the leather balm.

The color took on a life of it's own after the leather balm but it turned out rich and deep.

I also agree with you on the different levels of pricing versus finish work. Now I just need to make a price list...maybe after Christmas.

I left the belt tunnel un-oiled and without the balm so I can go back and form the tunnel. Was going to do it and had a brain-fart.

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In many cases, you can also complete all dyeing and finishing on the leather before sewing. That will eliminate any color transfer to the thread.

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looking good George...the only thing i might change, if i were making it for me personally, would be to relocate the 1911 to the back side....and +1 what Particle said...good edges are hard to come by these days...

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If I'm showing someone a holster they generally make a comment about it being nice, maybe well built, and inevitably they mention the edges look really good. Not claiming I'm really good at any of that all the time. But I think one of the things that sets me apart is taking the time to finish the edges nicely. I've had problems with bad edges making carry uncomfortable. I don't want that to be the case on something I have made. With that said, there is a big difference in how I finish the edges on some holsters. I'll accept a little less on the cheaper ones, mainly single layer hybrids. But the leather ones get a lot of work done on the edges. And yeah, it can eat up a lot of time. But I have found a few tricks to get what I want along the way.

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First off, that is a great looking holster. It looks like you have that style figured out. In response to your question about edges, I definitely feel like the extra time and effort it requires to achieve nice looking edges is well worth the trouble in more ways than one. To me, good clean finished edges are one of the things that separate amateur looking holsters from professional holsters. Not only do they make the holster look much better, but they also help to extend the life of the holster by protecting against premature wear...especially around the throat area where the firearm will likely contact the edges during holstering. If $$ vs. time is a concern, I would try to figure out methods to shorten the amount of time it takes you to finish the edges in an attempt to be more efficient. Also, don't lowball yourself by pricing your work too low. If someone requests a handmade leather holster for their weapon, they most likely already know the costs involved and are willing to pay for such an item-don't sell yourself short. If I may make a few suggestions, I would consider using Fiebings Edge Kote (or something comparable) on your edges to dress them up a little more after you burnish them. They offer it in black and brown and it really makes a difference in the final appearance of the edges. Also, as someone mentioned earlier, I would not put the model (1911) stamp on the outside of the holster. I would instead put that on the backside where it can't be seen during use. I would however put your maker's stamp on the outside instead of the inside. It is very common to see maker's stamps on the outside of custom holsters and there is nothing wrong with putting your mark on something that you made and are proud of (and it is free advertisement). Overall, that is a good looking holster and your customer should be proud to own and wear it. Good luck!

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Nice work George! Is the horse leather more difficult to form? Does it have to be wetter?

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Nice job!

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Looks very nice. As I have matured in the craft I always am drawn to the edges of anyones work. I agree with Particle. However, I now give particular detail and time to my edge work regardless of what I am getting for it. I try not to look at the clock on any build as it may be really disappointing when calculating an hourly rate if this is a true business for you. When anyone else looks at your customers holster they assume that's simply how you finish your edges and may choose to place an order with your based on the craftsmanship not what you charged your customer perhaps because they didn't care what the edges look like.

Also, edge work is a practiced skill. The more you do it the better and faster you become. IMHO.

Peace,

Rob

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