Need Help Fine Tuning My 110W125

[Happy Hooligan]

Hi,

I picked up a my first walking foot machine and need help fine tuning it to work. It's a Singer 110W125. It was siezed up when I got it, but it running great now. But the needle won't pick up the bobbin thread. I'm sure it's just a light tweek, but is anyone here familiar with this machine or bobbin set up?

thanks Pick is of pre clean up

[machinehead]

Hi,

I picked up a my first walking foot machine and need help fine tuning it to work. It's a Singer 110W125. It was siezed up when I got it, but it running great now. But the needle won't pick up the bobbin thread. I'm sure it's just a light tweek, but is anyone here familiar with this machine or bobbin set up?

thanks Pick is of pre clean up

[machinehead]

What class of needle are you using? Do you have the long groove in the needle to the left?

[Wizcrafts]

Hi,

I picked up a my first walking foot machine and need help fine tuning it to work. It's a Singer 110W125. It was siezed up when I got it, but it running great now. But the needle won't pick up the bobbin thread. I'm sure it's just a light tweek, but is anyone here familiar with this machine or bobbin set up?

thanks Pick is of pre clean up

Unless my eyes deceive me, you have bought a roller foot machine, not a walking foot machine.

Make sure you are using the correct needle series, so the length to the eye is correct and make sure the eye is facing right. Thread it from left to right. Rotate the wheel towards you, from the top (CCW).

Stick to #69 bonded nylon thread, maximum.

[Happy Hooligan]

Unless my eyes deceive me, you have bought a roller foot machine, not a walking foot machine.

Make sure you are using the correct needle series, so the length to the eye is correct and make sure the eye is facing right. Thread it from left to right. Rotate the wheel towards you, from the top (CCW).

Stick to #69 bonded nylon thread, maximum.

yes, sorry it is a roller foot machine not walking....

As to the needle I don't know, the machine came a box of needles with it.

It belonged to a man who use to sew shoes for vaudeville and zelgfield girls... so it has a cool history.

I'll take a video of where I might be having the problems.

right now I'm just using a thicker thread but nothing huge.

[machinehead]

The original needle system called for by your machine is either 16x4 or 16x246. These measure 33.9 mm from the end of the shank to the eye, or just a little over a mm shy of 1 and 3/8". Like Wizcrafts says use #69 thread and a needle with an eye neither too big or too small. You can read about a neat trick to choose the proper size needle and thread combination in this forum.

There is an online manual for your machine on the Singer Industrial Products website.

[Happy Hooligan]

[/media]here's a video of the trouble I'm having. Obliviously the bobbin won't be spinning as I took the plate off so you can see the action.
Hopefully you experts will know instantly what I'm doing wrong.... also the hook strikes the needle just a tad....

[media]http://s325.photobucket.com/albums/k361/happyhooligan70/?action=view&current=MOV04611.mp4

Edited August 8, 2010 by Happy Hooligan

[Wizcrafts]

The timing is a little too late. Advance the hook until the point is in the center of the needle's eye indent, with the eye about 1/16" or so below the point. If the point is too far away, move it closer. The needle should just miss the point, depending on the size of the loop that is formed.

Needle size is important for the loop. If you use too large of a needle, for the thread size, the top thread may not form a loop for the pick-up point to grab. Also, make sure that the machine is threaded properly and that the check spring stops moving down before the needle bottoms out. Too much check spring will draw up the top thread before a decent loop has formed.

[machinehead]

The timing is a little too late. Advance the hook until the point is in the center of the needle's eye indent, with the eye about 1/16" or so below the point. If the point is too far away, move it closer. The needle should just miss the point, depending on the size of the loop that is formed.

Needle size is important for the loop. If you use too large of a needle, for the thread size, the top thread may not form a loop for the pick-up point to grab. Also, make sure that the machine is threaded properly and that the check spring stops moving down before the needle bottoms out. Too much check spring will draw up the top thread before a decent loop has formed.

[machinehead]

At least in the video, the needle appears to be in wrong. Thread the needle from the left side toward the hand wheel not front to back. Longest groove in the needle goes to your left hand. Also, there is a sort of triangular projection on the bobbin case. The thread comes out of the bobbin case slot in the thread tension spring and goes under the triangular tab and to its left.

[Happy Hooligan]

The original needle system called for by your machine is either 16x4 or 16x246. These measure 33.9 mm from the end of the shank to the eye, or just a little over a mm shy of 1 and 3/8". Like Wizcrafts says use #69 thread and a needle with an eye neither too big or too small. You can read about a neat trick to choose the proper size needle and thread combination in this forum.

There is an online manual for your machine on the Singer Industrial Products website.

so I was going through a box of stuff it came with and found a pack of 10 needles labeled DBx95 or 16x95 are these the wrong size?

[machinehead]

so I was going through a box of stuff it came with and found a pack of 10 needles labeled DBx95 or 16x95 are these the wrong size?

Your machine is intended to sew leather shoes so originally it called for needles with a leather cutting point. The 16x95 needles are the same length from the end of shank to the eye as the two systems called for so you should be able to use them to get it sewing with the possible exception if there is a substantial difference in the scarf { the indentation near the eye on the opposite side from the needle's long groove}. This is where the hook passes the needle and the loop is formed and picked up by the point of the hook. Since you found the 16x95 needles with the machine, it probably means that at some point the previous owner sewed with them. They are a ball point needle for fabric,but on thin leather using several stitches per inch they wouldn't cause the leather to split between the stitches.

[Happy Hooligan]

Your machine is intended to sew leather shoes so originally it called for needles with a leather cutting point. The 16x95 needles are the same length from the end of shank to the eye as the two systems called for so you should be able to use them to get it sewing with the possible exception if there is a substantial difference in the scarf { the indentation near the eye on the opposite side from the needle's long groove}. This is where the hook passes the needle and the loop is formed and picked up by the point of the hook. Since you found the 16x95 needles with the machine, it probably means that at some point the previous owner sewed with them. They are a ball point needle for fabric,but on thin leather using several stitches per inch they wouldn't cause the leather to split between the stitches.

fantastic then, I'll try to use these and see if I can adjust the timing....

now as to adjusting timing on my household machines I unscrew the bottom shaft that goes under the machine and I can turn the bobbin then without the needle going up and down. On this machine when I unscrew the two that hold the shaft it is still turning. Are these different than a household machine or is it stuck in there and need a little force to break the bond?

[Happy Hooligan]

Okay... so the needle good...

now I timed it so the hook passes through the "cut out" of the needle on the upstroke.

Here's the video... is that correct? If so, let me get the proper thread to use and play with the tension.

http://s325.photobucket.com/albums/k361/happyhooligan70/?action=view&current=MOV04639.mp4

[Wizcrafts]

Okay... so the needle good...

now I timed it so the hook passes through the "cut out" of the needle on the upstroke.

Here's the video... is that correct? If so, let me get the proper thread to use and play with the tension.

http://s325.photobucket.com/albums/k361/happyhooligan70/?action=view&current=MOV04639.mp4

The needle is now in correctly and the point is passing the eye at the right moment. Get your thread and start sewing.

I recommend using #69 bonded nylon, top and bottom. You can buy it all over eBay, in a huge range of colors and in 4, 8, and 16 oz spools.

Use #18 or 20 needles, depending on the thickness and density of the leather. Use may be able to use a #16 needle on vinyl and garment cloth.

[Happy Hooligan]

Well it's working!.... almost

It is sewing now but the tension is wrong. Also I can't screw down the center plate all the way or it freezes the bobbin ... might be age though.

I tried it out on some scrap denim I had. The Bunching up is from my playing with the upper tension.

Should I mess with the bobbin or try to get the top to fix it all?

I also noticed it would skip a hole or toe on the top stitch... But at least it sews! I haven't tried leather yet, as I don't have the right thread yet...

[Happy Hooligan]

So after playing with the top tension forever, I still just get a straight thread on the bottom (flat). So how do I add more tension to the bottom bobbin? I took it out and tightend the two screws next to the oil pad on piece that the bobbin goes into... is that correct? I didn't see how to on the manual...?

[CowboyBob]

The first thing you might want to check is look in between the upper tension discs & see if there's any old thread & or lint builtup in between them.

The looping underneath is almost always an indication of to loose upper tension (are u sure the thread is pulled down in between the discs?)

The needle plate has 2 grooves under it & there's a small metal tab on the bobbincase the goes into it,then you can tighten the 2 screws.

HTH

Bob

[Happy Hooligan]

The first thing you might want to check is look in between the upper tension discs & see if there's any old thread & or lint builtup in between them.

The looping underneath is almost always an indication of to loose upper tension (are u sure the thread is pulled down in between the discs?)

The needle plate has 2 grooves under it & there's a small metal tab on the bobbincase the goes into it,then you can tighten the 2 screws.

HTH

Bob

Thanks Bob,

I'll check on any extra thread on the upper tension. As to the needle plate, I can't seem to tighten it all the way or the needle has trouble. It might be a bobbin thing actually not being able to spin fully when I tighten it all the way. If i leave it just a little loose it works...

So are you saying to tighten those two screws on the bobbin holder, next to the little oil sponge thing?

thanks

Derek

[Leatherimages]

I'll just jump in with an obvious possibility.

I have a 31-15 Singer table machine, with a knee lift.

I've noticed that when my knee is touching the lift pad even a little bit, it will throw the tensions off, usually the top thread pulling to much below the surface.

I don't know if this has been considered here, I'm just dropping in, but it's something to know not to do.

Good luck.

[Happy Hooligan]

I'll check on the knee lift.

I think it's a combo of not using #69 thread too. but what did they use in 1918 when the machine was made? They didn't have nylon thread back then...?

I also think it's my throat plate. When I tighten it totally down, the hook can't spin through it. Do I need a new one?

And where do you find a new one?

thanks

Derek

Edited August 17, 2010 by Happy Hooligan

[Happy Hooligan]

so does anyone know if I need a new plate or is it not the plate? I can't find a picture of another one to see if mines messed up...