MarkS

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ooohh rrrahh. Nice work. The size of pocket is very aesthetically pleasing, the design clean and uncluttered making the USMC stand out nicely. Good work. Mark

Thank-you. Yeah, all stitched by hand, with beeswaxed flax linen thread, the glue used was hot hide glue. Took about 10 hours total, if you include "thinking" time. It was fun... now only twenty more to make! By the way... this is the nicest forum I belong to. People are helpful, and very kind to each other. I really like it here. Mark

Here is the sporran and some pictures of the templates I used. Measures about 7 1/2 inches by 8 1/2 inches. The toggle is just a small piece of branch, I had lying around, split down the middle and sanded on the back. The front "bellows" out to allow the hand inside. Squares are 1/4". Mark

Here is my prototype... after much research. Stitching got a bit rough in spots, but I learned a fair amount about not stitching myself into a corner. I will put the belt on after I measure the waist it needs to go around. Mark

I looked at my pattern modifications again, and I think maybe I over estimated how much I increased the side panels... each side went up about just over 1/2 inch. I live in Michigan, and don't get to as many events I as I would like. Mainly because of the high fuel prices discourage me from traveling too far from home. Sigh. On the up side though, it makes those events which I do go to all the more special! Mark

Wow Tom... great pictures. I haven't seen one like this from this era. Very cool! It's a treasure to be sure. Thanks for taking the time to photograph it! Mark

I have made about 25 pairs from this pattern. I needed to modify it a bit to make it work - both for smaller and for larger feet than the pattern is made for. Also, the cuts going to across the mid portion of the foot - before it goes up to the ankle are much too low; they need to be cut about an inch higher than the pattern otherwise every bit of grass, stone, and dirt will find their way underneath your foot. I made them out of moosehide, butterysoft and supple, though lightweight cowhide has worked well too. Sew the extra sole on the outside of the shoe with waxed linen or artificial sinew (and stay off the concrete). The basis of the pattern is easy to put together. I will look at my notes later and see how the angles and measurements were used to create the other sizes and modifications. For what it's worth, the ghillies were developed to deal with the low boglike areas where a traditional buckled shoe would have been sucked off the foot at the best, or simply would have held a bunch of water against the foot promoting foot problems at worst. The cuts along the sides allow the water to squish out of them and drain away quickly, while still protecting the foot. When worn, the ghillies weren't laced up the thigh - they were laced around the ankle several times. Lacing strapped tight enough around the thigh to keep the ghillies on in swampy ground WILL cut off the circulation to the lower leg. Most likely the laces will fall around your ankles anyway. The long laces were to wrap 'round the ankle several times to spread the load of the pulling of the shoe in sticky situations. Most people of means would have used buckled shoes in this time period, the less well off would have used hand made ghillies as described above. I re-enact this time period, and have worn the straight lasted buckle shoes, and the ghillies for days on end. I have gone hunting with both as well. The ghillies are absolutely silent in the woods, and you can slip through streams, muck, and creeks without having to take your shoes off to empty them. They are comfortable as only a moccasin can be, and conform to your foot like a second skin. Mark

At last, something I know something about. The closure device you are describing is known as a "cantle" and was made of silver plate or of pewter depending on the maker. They are relatively difficult to find, but are hinged on the bottom and snap together at the top in a purse like fashion. This page: http://www.cuillinn.com/hda.html may give you an idea how they go together. One source is Highland Wear another may be: Burnetts & Struth Scottish Regalia Ltd. Barrie, Ontario, Canada Phone: 1 - 705 - 728 - 3232 I have made the sporran in the PDF above, and while the pattern works, it does give a substandard looking sporran IMHO. I have made a new pattern which I will post when I get a chance, for anyone who may want one. The protype I made is better looking, and more correct to the 18th century, yet still looks great and fits in the 21st century. Mark

Hi all, I am a beginner leather worker, who just has the basics of leather working down. I do a lot of living history events, so I prefer to have all my equipment as historically accurate as possible. Right down to the glue we use. So far I have used Hide glue very successfully - not as the main means of support, but as an adjunct to the thread to join pieces together. Several nice features of hide glue is low odor, easy to store and use, and best of all, as it dries it actually draws the pieces tighter. I use it mainly to hold the pieces in place while I hand stitch the leather. I have made a number of belts, very simply decorated, which have held up very nicely even in a pouring rain (the glue didn't run, surprisingly). I have heard about barge cement but never used it... I need a glue which works as quickly (5 minute clamp time) and as easily as the hide glue, but which is impervious to water. Now for the kicker... it needs to have next to no odor. I must be able to use it next to an open flame, as I am either in the basement, or in the kitchen doing my work. Are there any products out there which will fit these requirements? Thanks, Mark

Thanks for the welcome! I just kindof stumbled in. Kinda like how I got into leather working. Looking at my previous post, I see what was clear to me - wouldn't be clear to others. I work with Living History units... who do the F & I as well as Revolutionary war... so we are talking mid eighteenth century from 1745-1800. I would be happy to work with copper rivets, as I have some knife sheaths which did eventually need to be re-sewn after 5-6 years. I didn't make them, but I did repair 'em. Right now I am making some plain belts for my group, and am making them so they are historically accurate as possible. I can't find any reference to riveted leather in this application in our timeframe, and I was wondering if there are sources to check on construction of something like this from then. Next project is making sporrans... Mark

I was wondering... I had seen somewhere on the 'net that rivets weren't used on leather - that is to join two pieces of leather together, that they were sewn - at least most of the time. Is ther any truth to this? It would seem to me at least, that using metal to join things like belts, etc. wouldn't be cost effective for most uses... Thanks for any input. Mark