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olliesrevenge

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About olliesrevenge

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 04/05/1975

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Florida
  • Interests
    sailing, kiteboarding

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Holsters
  • Interested in learning about
    Holstermaking

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  1. Beautiful holster Chris, your detail molding is perfect IMO. I'm assuming that since the thread is not dyed tan that you dip-dyed the leather pieces before sewing. My experience has been that if I dye 1st it is much more difficult to get really good detail in the wet molding / detail process - would you mind sharing the secret? Of course if I'm wrong in my assumption that you dip-dyed before sewing it up -- and you actually dip dyed after sewing --than I'd love to hear how you kept the thred from being dyed. Thanks for posting & Take care
  2. I have a similar issue. I own a HK USP .40 Compact -- and my brother in law owns a HK USP .45 Compact. If you examine the chart below of the HK USP compact dimensions for the various calibers -- you will see that the 9mm and the .40 are identical -- and the .45 appears to significantly differ only in barrel length and overall length. The height won't matter because that is only influenced by grip length (I think). IMO, the most important dimension -- the width -- is the same for all three. Anyway my plan is to make a holster using my USP .40 compact as a mold, and leave about 1/4" excess length without "curling / molding" the leather around the muzzle end. I think this will probably work -- although the glitch I am worried about is difference is the location of the thumb safety and the slide stop (if any) If I finish in a timely manner and get feedback from my bro in law, I'll post again. In the meantime I'd love to hear about it if anyone has used the USP compact 9mm / .40 as a mold for the .45. Take care. Dimensions-- 9 mm x 19 .40 S&W .45 AUTO Overall length-- 6.81 in. 6.81 in. 7.09 in. Overall height-- 5.00 in. 5.00 in. 5.06 in. Overall width-- 1.14 in. 1.14 in. 1.14 in. Barrel length-- 3.58 in. 3.58 in. 3.80 in. Sight radius-- 5.35 in. 5.35 in. 5.83 in.
  3. I Luv it! The holster & the gun. CZ represents (arguably) the biggest bang for the buck in the entire handgun universe. It still amazes me how cheaply you can pick 'em up for in the private sale market. Don't let the folks over at the CZ Forums see that holster, you'll get pestered with a bunch of requests Apparently there is only a few quality makers out there who do CZ.
  4. Ive never had my paws on a 37 or it's mag, so I cant go over 99% certainty. I buy stuff from these guys all the time... Lone Wolf Distributors Inc. 57 Shepard Road P.O. Box 3549 Oldtown, ID 83822-3549 Telephone/Fax: Phone: 208-437-0612 Fax: 888-279-2077 http://www.lonewolfdist.com/Content.aspx?PAGE=Contact%20Us ...they WILL know the answer, and they are super cool. I'm sure they'll be happy to help out a fellow "wolf" on the phone.
  5. Mexican carry TWO Desert Eagles?! ... Like... at the same time? That's the most "straight up gangsta" thing I've ever heard! I imagine at least one advantage of Mexican carry with the BIG DE is that the barrel is so long you don't have to worry about it pointing right at your "junk", since the barrel must extend down past that point. Of course, on 2nd thought, if you are big enough to Mexican carry twin Desert Eagles your junk is way bigger than my junk, and might still be downrange of the muzzle!
  6. I just re-read this, and the "Desert Eagle" part sank in. I sold an AR on SeattleGuns.net about a year ago, and advertised that I'd make the buyer a free holster along with the deal. When a buyer finally turned up, lo and behold he had a Desert Eagle he wanted a holster for. I tried to make an Avenger style holster for it, but was ultimately unsuccessful, and wound up making him a holster for a different gun. In a subsequent ad for a different rifle, I offered a free holster for any "reasonably sized" handgun! The biggest challenge I had with the DE was due to the relative thickness of the slide at the bottom near the trigger guard, and due to the triangular profile of the slide. The slide is thick & the trigger guard is thin, & I had much difficulty getting the leather to make the transition well to "work into" the trigger guard recess to achieve good retention. I just couldn't create anything I was happy with. Because of the triangular profile of the slide (thin at the top and thick at the bottom) any attempt to tighten things up at the bottom forces the gun forward - cramming the front sight into the leather fold at the front of the holster. The usual remedy for this is to use sewn in sight channels to brace the slide to the rear and create a channel for the front sight to travel in when the pistol is drawn. The problem here is that the triangular profile ( ie. thin at the top) doesn't allow much surface for sight channels. FWIW, those were the challenges I had with the monstrosity known as the "Desert Eagle"! If you successfully create an IWB holster for yours please post pics. Good luck! Lance
  7. This is how I learned to build that type... (thanks woolfe) http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22992&st=0&p=147075&fromsearch=1entry147075
  8. IMO, taking a 30,000 foot view of the law that applies here reveals it to be typical nanny state, Simon says legislation that mostly serves to turn otherwise honest people into felons. However, if a BATF agent ever got involved, it's likely that he would have a different opinion than mine. It is kind of fascinating that Samuel apparently is a LEO. If it was me that posted that, I might decide that now was a good time to use the "edit" button if it's still available. In fact, if the mods wanted to be real friendly, they might decide to make that original post go away. In this political climate, it wouldn't be totally shocking if words written in an Internet forum were used as evidence.:poofan:
  9. Max, I really like how you constructed your holster, with the outer piece lined and the inner piece w/ grain side in. Very cool, it makes a lot of sense. I guess you could call it "semi-lined" ? I've never made a lined holster, and I've always been curious about the work flow when stitching the lined piece. I guess you obviously first stitch across the top and bottom before gluing? Which would necessitate precisely lining up the top & bottom stitch lines with where you want your slide side & trigger side stitches. Is that right? Thanks for sharing
  10. I hear you Mike, personally I don't have a problem carrying IWB in a holster that collapses when the gun is drawn. My buddy is in a unique situation, because I made him a really rigid "practice holster" that carries virtually identically to his primary holster, so he can practice to his hearts content with the benefit of one-handed re-holstering. But the bottom line is that there are some shooting schools out there teaching that this is important, so the demand is there. In addition, a good number of people these days are getting their "practice" shooting IDPA, and using a non-collapsing IWB (if you choose to go IWB) holster in that sport is really convenient with the SO standing over your shoulder, and I imagine it would reduce the possibility of a DQ due to sweeping your weak hand while it is holding open your belt during re-holstering. Another downside of "collapsing" IWB's is that some untrained shooters (unfortunately I have even seen LEO's that fit this description) have a tendency to want to angle the muzzle in to their body to wedge it into the holster, thus sweeping their hips. Like you implied, ultimately it all boils down to training, and understanding your gear. Strangely enough, I have yet to make myself one of these ultrathin IWB's. I should probably give it a try! FWIW
  11. About a year ago - After reading Woolfe's reinforced mouth IWB tutorial, I took a crack at my 1st IWB holster. I made it for a buddy's CZ P-01 out of 4-5 oz Wickett & Craig (pic below), the belt loops (6-7 oz) are it's thickest leather component. I wasn't happy with the aesthetic appearance of it , it's thin enough to be easily pressed flat near the muzzle between index finger and thumb, and the reinforcement is only marginally effective at preventing collapse when the gun is drawn. He swears by that original thin one though, he says it's the most comfortable IWB he's ever owned; more so than any of the 3 IWB's I've made him since then, even more comfortable than the difficult to make "flat molded" IWB I made him. The P-01 in that that holster is his everyday carry rig, go figure.
  12. The Brigade M11 you posted pics of is a great type of holster, but it's not flat on the backside, with the outer piece molded around the gun. Here is a great how to on how to build that type of holster - http://leatherworker...=1 For a truly "flat molded" holster - like in the pics attached below... I recommend using a non premium piece of leather to mold around the gun first as a research piece. The reason for this is that you will likely want to make changes to the upper edge contour, particularly around the trigger guard. area. Make it a bit bigger than you think it will likely need to be. The easiest way, IMO, to do this is to lay the gun on a wooden surface (I used a small piece of 2x12), and just use tacks to hold the wet formed leather down around the gun. You could get away with just using a piece of lathe and a couple of c-clamps to hold down the top of the slide edge, but if you try to use a scroll saw cutout 'negative mold' to clamp down the trigger guard side I almost guarantee you wont like the contour of it once you butt it up to the outline of the gun & molded leather. Just use tacks on the trigger side for starters. Cut the research piece as necessary (likely around the trigger guard) during the initial molding to get it to fit just the way you want. Let the research piece dry while still molded to the gun, then draw some outlines on it with a sharpie or other pen where you want the stitchlines to be. Then untack it, re-wet it, flatten it out, and let it dry once again. You now have a template for tracing your actual leather workpiece. For the actual assembly you now can stitch the straight slide side stitch line and then use a 'negative mold' for the trigger guard side (that you created from the sharpie drawn trigger side outline on the research piece). Then once it's dry you can hand sew the trigger guard side. Be aware that using the 'negative mold' on the trigger side will likely create some unwanted impressions in the leather if you butt it hard against the "wall" of leather on the trigger side outline - I recommend backing it off just a bit in size and using a ball stylus for final molding on the trigger side 90 degree crease. If you take detailed notes during the research piece phase; specifically about how far the molded outer leather has to "bunch up" in order to form around the gun, it is possible to use that information during the final build to completely sew the holster before doing the wet molding. This is only necessary if you are machine sewing, though, because it is impossible (as far as I know) to machine sew the trigger side after molding and get the stitch line butted right up to the 90 degree crease (even when using a left or right single presser foot). I hope that's as clear as mud - good luck!
  13. Holy 'run on sentence' batman! I think I might have an idea of what you are trying to do but I hesitate to address it 'cause I feel like there is a good chance I might be wrong. There is alot of help to be had here, but I have a respectful suggestion. In order to access the help here you will need to take some time to more clearly articulate your question. Maybe a pic of what you currently have - and also a pic of what you want to wind up with (they could be captured or linked to from a holster maker site, etc).
  14. You're right. I even knew about this common misnomer and still got it confused. At any rate, at least were on the same page for what it means. It's good to see confirmation that it is only the grip length along the bullet axis that is different, as I may need to build a holster for a 21SF in the near future, and I own a G20 to use for molding. As far as the rails go I think I'll be safe using the G20 with standard Glock rail for making a holster for a Glock with a picatinny rail, there just wont be molding depressions in each picatinny notch when the 21 SF gets holstered. Although using a picatinny railed pistol as a holster mold for a pistol w/ standard rail might result in too tight a fit. That's my thought anyway. When you said that 10mm and .45 ACP were the same OAL that sounded wrong and prompted me to look it up. I load for the 10mm but not for .45, & I was curious more than anything. Not only were you right, but the max COL for .45 is actually longer than for 10mm, 1.275" vs 1.260 according to LEE's 2nd edition. Go figure. I would have expected the 10mm to be longer than the .45 to about the same degree the 9mm is longer than the .40. (1.169" vs 1.135"). Take care
  15. +1 to what woolfe said & linked to. Just to add a little something though... A 9mm Glock mag will fit into a .40 cal, or .357 Sig Glock pistol of equal or smaller size (and vice versa), but just out of curiosity I did some measurements with my calipers awhile back. I found a small (but consistent across a decent sample size) difference in size between 9mm & .40 mags. Note: Height was measured from the tip of the forward end of the mag follower to the underside (not the very end) of the base plate (i.e. the dimension of interest to a holster maker). 9mm Width - .9" Length - 1.309" Height - (G17 = 4.4") (G19 = 3.9") (G26 = 3") .40 S&W Width - .9" Length - 1.3" Height - Same as for similar 9mm frame sizes Although the difference is arguably insignificant, the .40 mags are slightly smaller in length (the bullet length dimension). With that in mind, I use a .40 mag (G22) for all standard frame Glock mag pouch making. I just drew two silver sharpie lines on it that correspond to the smaller mag sizes. On the .45 GAP and .380 pistols, I am 99% sure that they are the exact same size as their 9mm, .40, and .357 Sig counterparts. They are pretty rare though, especially the .380 which isn't sold in the US. If you ever get a holster order for one of those pistols, mark it on your calendar, cause it likely will never happen again. The G29 & G20 are the exact same size as the G30 and G21, respectively. I am also 90% certain that the .45 ACP SF "slim frame" models only differ in the length of the grip (i.e. the bullet length dimension), and that all other dimensions are the same. Thus a holster made for a G21 or G20 should fit a G21 SF (and vice versa) FWIW Lance
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