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Chavez

Cleaning/restoring Leather.

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Hi!

Its been almost a year since I've made myself my moleskine cover and after a year of carrying it in my pocket it really needed a clean. Se here's what I did:

- Washed the cover with saddle soap & water. 2 good washes have stripped the old finish (carnauba) and the foam lifted up a lot of dirt from leather.

- Rinsed to get rid of remaining foam (cover was soaking wet even before rinsing)

- Let it dry

- Oiled lightly with mink oil

- Applied 2 layers of carnauba creme.

The result was not very good: the leather has darkened (I guess mainly because of oil), deformed slightly and completely lost its shine (even with carnauba finish on it).

What is the proper way to clean leather items to try and maintain a good look? And what conditioners/finishes do you use? I've heard that leather items would last decades if treated properly.

Thank you!

P.S since the cover was almost ruined, I've decided to try "Lord Sheraton Leather balm" conditioner that I bought in a local tesco (couldn't resist the temptation of trying a new conditioner, even though it looks like a general-purpose clean-your-sofa sort of stuff).

I mush say that I was really impressed with the results: no idea what they put into this balm (the box only claims that it includes a blend of oils & waxes) and why it has a strong chemical smell to it, but it brought back some of the old shine and even added to the cover's water resistance!

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This seems like a good question and I'd like to know the answer too.

Bob

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Hi! I will offer up my method of cleaning most items that come to my shop for reconditioning.

Most of my work is with heavier leather, saddles and other horse equipment. I do use the same products for lighter items I just don't get them as wet or scrub as vigorously.

I am only posting this because it works for me, I know there are other products and methods that others use. I am open to all other suggestions, products and methods.

  • Murphys Oil Soap (Available at most grocery stores, I get mine at Smart and Final $14.00 gal. and it lasts quite a while)
  • Feibings Pure Neatsfoot Oil (I get mine from Southern Leather in Denver) about $24.00 gal + shipping
  • Feibings Tan Kote ( Most leather suppliers carry this)

For heavy weight leather, saddles and tack I mix 2 cups of Murphys Oil Soap in a bucket of water (about 2 gallons) I also mix a 12oz water bottle with 1/2 murphys and 1/2 water and put a nail hole in the top to use it as a squirt bottle.

Using a sponge to wet the entire saddle (with the bucket mixture) I start scrubbing the leather with a scrub brush, this includes the seat (even if it is a padded seat) all of the tooling (floral and basket weave areas). While doing this I use the water bottle mixture of stronger mix to help with the sudsing action. Keeping it all pretty wet and rinsed washes the dirt out while scrubbing in a circular motion. Washing all areas under the skirts, jockeys, stirrup leathers and under the gullet hat most people never see on their saddles.

After this is all done and washed and scrubbed I give it a quick rinse with clear water and the sponge. This helps wash some of the suds away. I don't worry if some is left.

I then towel dry the saddle and begin using the Neatsfoot oil on the leather. I give a nice even cote of oil while the leather is still damp. I then let it sit for a day. If needed a second cote of oil. Let sit another day if needed.

I then use the Tan Kote on the smooth leather (not on rough out of padded seat suede).

On lighter weight leather pieces I use only the bubbles and suds for cleaning so the leather does not get so wet. The rest of the process is the same.

I would welcome any others methods/ materials/cleaners ect. and info anyone else is using.

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Thanks Rick! I think I have everything you list on hand except the Tan Kote.

Bob

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Thanks Rick!

Do you get any damage to the grain or carved areas when using the brush?

And do you get any deformation at all?

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Thanks Rick!

Do you get any damage to the grain or carved areas when using the brush?

And do you get any deformation at all?

There is no damage, but it looks terrible !! After washing as it starts to dry the leather looks "stripped" I guess it is but the dirt build up is gone. It all starts to come back after oiling it and putting the Tan Kote or Bag Kote on.

No, The brush does not damage anything. There are some saddles that have very deep tooling and the dirt will get caught in the bottom, a toothpick will get it out.

The tooling stands up fine, no deformation from cleaning. If it were to stay wet for a long period 6 or 8 hours that may be a problem but if a saddle is wet that long there has been a flood and you have other problems!!

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