Tight angled lacing

[Mike]

Is there a tool or easy way to lay out the lacing slots so that the laces lay next to each other? A regular angled lacing punch leaves a bit of a gap.

[Beaverslayer]

Rather than using the multi toothed punch, you have to use the single toothed and space the holes accordingly. If you look at this post you will see what I mean in the picture ClayB has attached to the post.

Click here

Ken

[Mike]

It's the 'accordingly' that is getting me. I have tried it in the past but did not seem to get it right. I just wondered whether or not there were some simply guidelines.

Rather than using the multi toothed punch, you have to use the single toothed and space the holes accordingly. If you look at this post you will see what I mean in the picture ClayB has attached to the post.

Click here

Ken

[Beaverslayer]

Here's a picture that may help you.

First scribe a line 1/4" in from your edge. Using this as a guide, you can punch the slots on the angle you need. To get the "Accordingly" you want the second slot punched, with the bottom edge of the tool lined up with the top of the previous slot. As shown in picture.

Hope this helps.

Bad picture taker.

Ken

Edited January 10, 2008 by Johanna
reduced the pic size (Beave- turn your camera down! :)

[Rawhide]

Here's what I do and hopefully it will help you. Get yourself an overstitch wheel with a 7 stitch per inch spacing, a pair of lacing nippers (a single prong chisel will also work). Scribe the line as Beverslayer mentioned earlier all around your project. next punch your corner holes first at a 45 degree angle to both adjacent sides of the corner. Next use the stitching wheel along the scribe line to evenly mark punching locations. Now use a 45/45 triangle to line up your first punch and punch it at the first mark. (I place the punch to the inside of the scribe line, this way the line is covered up well with lace at the end of the project.) Now you can use the first punched hole to line up the next and continue around the part. If you use the 1/8" lace with this hole patter, it should give you a nice tight lace which looks extremely professional.

Here's is a check book cover I did recently. I use the process described above, with some kangaroo lace I cut with a lace cutter. (cutting your own is WAY more economical).

Hope this helps. If not, reply back or send me a pm and I'll try to put together a tip sheet.

Marlon

[cybertracy]

rawhide, beautiful work! Great step-by-step too. I can't wait to try this on my next lacing project.

Edited January 9, 2008 by cybertracy

[wolvenstien]

NOT TO HIJACK THE THREAD

Rawhide.... You need to post your work.... that CB cover looks great. Is that single or double loop lacing?

[Rawhide]

Thanks for the compliments

I guess I'm a bit too critical for myself, (we probably all are).

Cybertracy, you're welcome. If you have any questions let me know and I'll be glad to answer them.

Wolvenstien, That is a double loop lacing.

Marlon

[craftsman827]

Marlon, where do you get your roo skin for your lace?

Very nice work, by the way !

I do a lot of lacing , never used roo yet, I here it's the best.

But very expensive, thats why I would cut my own.

[Rawhide]

craftsman827,

Sorry for the late reply to your question. I didn't realize there was another post.

Anyway, I got my roo skin from Hidecrafter's. It is pretty expensive stuff, I think the skin cost me about 65 bucks (11.25 per sq ft.), But I looked at Tandy for the precut and it's like 35 to 40 bucks for 25 yards, I used about 30 feet of lace to lace up that cover and cut it all out of a circle about 6 or 7 inches in diameter from the skin.

Marlon