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chiefjason

Glock Compatibility Question

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So here is the deal. A guy contacted me on one of the gun boards I am a member of to have me make a holster for him. He wanted a M&P Shield, we agreed on terms and I ordered the blue gun. I need it anyway. Then he contacted me and asked me to make a M&Pc 40 and a Glock 27 as well. I don't have access to a G27 or 26. What I do have is a G19. The frame dimensions are the same, the difference is in the slide length.

So here is my thoughts, and my question. I'm considering molding the gun over the G19 to just past the trigger guard. Once I am happy there, I'm thinking of pulling the gun out to finish molding for the barrel length.

Brilliant, sketchy, just a dumb idea? Anyone else tried it. I want to get a G26 blue gun at some point. But I would prefer to make a little money on this deal instead of breaking even. I'm also trying to get in touch with a buddy that I believe has a G26, so this may be a moot point in the end.

Thanks.

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A lot of people disagree with me, but my advice is to use the proper mold for each holster you make. My first choice if you absolutely don't want to buy the dummy would be your friend with the G26. Still, the mold for the gun will run you around $45 or so and is popular enough to warrant the purchase, but you already know that.

Make your holsters fit precisely the gun they were intended for. There's no place for shortcuts in quality gunleather, especially when talking about the weapon itself.

My $.02, though.

Edited to add that if you got a mold for each holster, you didn't break even.

Edited by dickf

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A lot of people disagree with me, but my advice is to use the proper mold for each holster you make. My first choice if you absolutely don't want to buy the dummy would be your friend with the G26. Still, the mold for the gun will run you around $45 or so and is popular enough to warrant the purchase, but you already know that.

Make your holsters fit precisely the gun they were intended for. There's no place for shortcuts in quality gunleather, especially when talking about the weapon itself.

My $.02, though.

Edited to add that if you got a mold for each holster, you didn't break even.

I agree with the above.... not to mention the slide length isn't the only difference between a G19 and a G26.... the dust cover on Gen 3 and Gen 4 G19's have a light rail and the G26/G27 doesn't.... unless it's a Gen 1 or Gen 2, using the methods you described of pulling the gun out and molding the barrel will not result in an exact fit and can also look a little awkward....

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You won't go wrong buying a G26 mold gun. It is one of the most requested of the pistols I make holsters for. And there is more than just the light-rail difference in the frame. The G26/27 actually has a bump or bulge just forward of the takedown levers making the frame thicker in that area. Hence, if you really detail mold to a G19 it will be a snugger fit with a G26.

Edited by Mark Garrity

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You won't go wrong buying a G26 mold gun. It is one of the most requested of the pistols I make holsters for. And there is more than just the light-rail difference in the frame. The G26/27 actually has a bump or bulge just forward of the takedown levers making the frame thicker in that area. Hence, if you really detail mold to a G19 it will be a snugger fit with a G26.

I got on the Glock site and did some looking and noticed that exact same thing. I'm all into DIY and making do, or building instead of buying. Heck, I mocked up a CT Lasermax for a SR9c the other week and it worked like a charm. But I bit the bullet on this one and added the G26 to my order. BTW, Rob at Bluegunstore was very responsive to my request and actually responded and sent an invoice on Sunday. I guess we are both working today, lol. I'm going to get started on patterning and getting things mocked up, and I'll have the gun for the molding process. I've been wanting one anyway. At least breaking even isn't loosing money. You gotta build the inventory somehow. Thanks guys.

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