Curve A Tack Name Plate For Belt?

[gicts]

I've picked up a few brass name plates as seen in the tack scene. Ya know, lots of belts with the customers' names, horse harnesses with their names, etc etc.

For the belts, do you add a slight curve to the brass plate? This way it won't stick out and rip off. If you all do that, what do you use? Any problems with snapping?

Thanks!

[WinterBear]

Annealling the metal before shaping or after a lot of working to prevent the metal from cracking. The methods are varies, but essentially, one heats the metal, then cools it very slowly. The metal will then regain its softness and can be worked. Afterwards, the metal can be tempered, or heated and cooled quickly (as by quenching) to regain durability.

I think if you investigate the forums used by jewelry fabricators (those that make jewelry from ingots, sheet, and/or rod--you might try the ganoksin orchid forum archives in fact) you'll be able to find the best methods for tempering and annealing for the size, shape, thickness, and alloy of brass you are using, plus how to remove or prevent fire scale and how best to polish it (e.g., a brushed finish, mirror polish, and everything in between).

[TTcustom]

Brass anneals at roughly 800 to 1300 degrees F. Like copper you can anneal it by heating to a dull red with a torch and then quenching with water. Put some spa ph reducer (HCL) from the pool store in the water to remove the scaling. finish up with some buffing and wax. <br /> Having done repousse work and made a few wildcat cartridges I can tell you this method works well. Brass and copper work different than steels. If you need to handle it right away quench if you don't air cool. There is good info on the Jewelery and repousse websites.

Edited April 5, 2012 by TTcustom

[Ferg]

I'm sorry but do you really want to anneal the plates you have? Come on, the curve on a belt, let's assume it is on the portion on the person's back side, is so minimal. You can "work" enough curve in the "Tag" by hand to conform.

I agree with the annealing for more stringent curves/arcs as in your wrist. Jewelry making is a whole different story.

ferg

I've picked up a few brass name plates as seen in the tack scene. Ya know, lots of belts with the customers' names, horse harnesses with their names, etc etc.

For the belts, do you add a slight curve to the brass plate? This way it won't stick out and rip off. If you all do that, what do you use? Any problems with snapping?

Thanks!

[Kevin]

This is what I do everyday. I just use a rubber mallet and the bic (horn) of an anvil. I buckle the belt and imagine where the hip bones will be and bend away, it's easier to unbend if you bend too much. The brass in plates is pretty soft, you just can't quite fold them in half.

Kevin

[Kevin]

One more thing, If you don't have the plates already, I like plates by The Engraver in West Chester, PA, or Quillen's in KY. Don't get plates from Dover, the holes are too big and they aren't centered.

Good luck,

Kevin