History Of Split Leather - Extract From "the Leather Manufacture" By Schultz 1876

[SLudlow]

I find the history of leather rather fascinating, particularly as so often one hears comments about the "old ways" having died off and been replaced by inexpensive bonded and synthetic leather. In that context, I found this little bit in a well regarded book from the 1870s regarding split leather. I hope you'll enjoy it as much as I did.

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CHAPTER XXIII.

GRAIN AND BUFF LEATHER SPLITTING MACHINES MAKING SPLIT LEATHERS FROM GREEN HIDES OR

FROM TANNED LEATHER EVERY KIND OF NATURAL GRAIN SUCCESS

FULLY IMITATED STRENGTH AND DURABILITY OF SPLIT LEATHERS

— THEIR INTRODUCTION TO EUROPEAN CONSUMERS

ESSENTIALS TO BE CONSIDERED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF GRAIN AND BUFF LEATHER.

Commencing with the successful introduction of the union splitting machine, about the year 1830, leather made from the hides of neat cattle has been split down to a compara tively thin substance, and the "grain splits" have been used extensively for shoes, as well as trunks, harness, etc. With the improvements made in that machine in later years, very safe and good work has been done in splitting the ordinary cow hides into both stout and light grain leather, while the best of the flesh splits has been used extensively for boot backs and shoe quarters, and the middle splits for trunks. More recently, or about 1860, the " endless belt knife split ting machine " came into use, and it splits with even greater precision than the union machine. From its high cost (about $1,000), as well as from its complicated structure, making it liable to get out of order, comparatively few of these machines are in use. When it is new and in good order, and handled by a competent workman, an ordinary cow hide can, with it, be split into three, and even four dis tinct parts, with as great precision as the sheepskins of England are split grain from flesh. The merit claimed for this endless belt machine is that the fiber of the hide is cut without strain, while it is alleged that with the union ma chine considerable force is required to draw the side through. This objection had much force with such machines as were constructed early in the history of splitting leather, but with the improvements since introduced, there is no perceptible disturbance of the fiber, and no greater power is required than can be applied with the attendant.s hands. These union machines are low so perfect and durable in their con struction that they may be said to be indestructible by ordi nary wear, and, with average skill and care, grain leather of the thinnest description can be split from the ordinary neat hide. An illustration of the union leather splitter will be found in subsequent pages.

So much has been said in regard to the machines and facilities for splitiug that we may consider the intrinsic merits of the grain and buff leather which has for the past few years como into such universal use in this country, and is now, by its cheap and excellent qualities, commending itself to all the countries of Europe. A clear distinction must be kept up between the process of manufacturing these grain and buff leathers from the green hide and those made from tanned leather. Our curriers are too often tempted to split down fully tanned leather into grain. Such efforts bring into disfavor all grain leather, since, from the very nature of the case, the grain must be tender when fully tanned first and split afterward. It is a great misfortune that grain leather made in this improper manner cannot be discriminated against by buyers, as it is almost sure to give dissatisfaction when made up into shoes ; but, tempted by a concession of one or two cents per foot, manufactiirers are too apt to " try just this one lot," and that one lot, however small, carries discredit to a whole class of goods. These objections apply only to light women's grain. Men's boot grain, which is split to weigh seven to eight ounces to the foot, will have substance enough to hold against any strain.

But the object of this chapter is to consider the intrinsic qualities of modern grain leather, manufactured in imitation of calf, goat, seal and even hpgskins. By far the largest por tion is manufactured as "pebble" or "goat." The grain is made coarse or fine, to suit the taste of the purchaser. In deed, with present appliances, an order can be filled at short notice with just such devices imprinted on the grain as may be desired, and without additional cost to the purchaser. Probably there is no animal that lives whose skin cannot be imitated, so far as the external appearance is concerned, and this can be done by a machine which will duplicate the im pression indefinitely. The effect of the production of this description of goods on the manufacture of goatskin morocco in Europe is just beginning to be felt. In this country its influence has been very perceptible for the past five years.

The question which consumers desire to be satisfied upon is as to whether it is tough, so that it will wear without tear ing or cracking. In respect to " cracking " there can be no hesitation in saying that, from the nature of the pelt and its treatment, it is not more liable to crack than East Ladia kips, goat or seal skins. It will also take as durable a color, ?. c, it will not turn " fox}e." But is it as lasting in general strui ture ? Can a part of a pelt be made as strong as the whole? The answer is both no and yes. In the bending of the fiber of the leather so frequently as is made necessary on a man's or woman's shoe, the stock is a great deal more liable to crack if it be of thick leather than if thin, but if the thin leather is made from a pelt that has its whole structure, both flesh and grain, and all intermediate fiber, it must be more serviceable than when this structure is broken, as is the case with these split grain leathers. But suppose wc admit that this grain upper is less tough than goat, seal or horsa leather, if it is sufficiently tovrjli to wear out two pairs of solcs, as is affirmed by our exp"rence, and can be offered at thirty per cent. less price than all competing leather, then will it not he pronounced a success, and will it not largely take the place of these leathers throughout Europe ? That it will greatly affect the consumption and price of goat, calf, seal and horse leather throughout the whole world there can be no doubt ; whether it shall ultimately come into general use for women's and children.s shoes will depend upon the hon esty and fidelity with which it is manufactured. It is now almost exclusively made in this country, and because we have the machines to split successfully the hides. When the leather manufacturers of Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and even France, shall turn their attention to the production of this leather they will successfully compete. Outside of our machines and our trained hands for splitting we have no advantages over those countries. Indeed, their cow hides are finer in grain than ours, and as their neat cattle are almost exclusively cows, there can be no reason to question a full supply of the raw material. The improved breeds of cattle in Great Britain will also give the English tanner a most suitable cow hide for grain upper.

The question, then, of substituting split grain for the skins of the smaller animals is one as broad as the two Continents. Tn view, therefore, of the largeness of the subject, let us con sider in conclusion some of the methods and economies of manufacturing this grain and buff leather for women.s and children.s shoes.

First. — The hides must be free from all scratches, and from horn and hook marks on the grain. Cows sent from the West on cars will not produce hides sufficiently free from the above defects to make grain leather.

Second. — The hide should not weigh over 40 to 45 pounds, cured and trimmed weight. Leather made from old and heavy cow hides the grain is coarse, and when cut down thin is tender.

Third. — They should be worked in when as fresh as pos sible ; hides that have laid in the salt for a long time are apt to have a " frized " grain.

Fourth. — The lime should be worked out thoroughly; warm water in the wheel will do this to a limited extent, but bates should be used as a last resort before final working.

Fifth. — Our best grain leather manufacturers handle and even tan by suspending the sides ; this practice makes the shoulders and flanks wry fine. Whether it adds to the toughness of the grain may be questioned ; but for buff leather it is indispensable, and even for grain it presents so many advantages that it may be doubted whether any man ufacturer can afford to dispense with the practice.

Sixth. — The side is colored and raised before splitting ; that is, the sides are handled on sticks (suspended) until they he- gin to feel firm and put on the appearance of leather. This usually occupies ten days in a weak liquor, when the sides are taken owi, drained and stiffened, (by being hung up in the loft). They are then split. Usually there are two splits taken off, one main split, and one junior or small one, which covers the kidneys, but which does little more than flatten the side. If these freshly split parts are thrown back into a strong liquor, or even one of moderate strength, without wheeling or brushing, they will become "crusted" over, and will not take the tan ; but if thrown into the wheel for a few moments, and run in a weak sour liquor, then all dif ficulty on this score is avoided. The old method of brush-ing with a stiff brush is now considered too expensive, par ticularly as the wheel answers the purpose. After this wheeling the grain portion is hung in the vat and the split portion is laid away with bark.

Seventh. — The liquor in the vats is changed, but not the sides. Some run off, say one-quarter or one-third of the liquor into the junk, and pump back on the newer packs, re plenishing the head packs with new liquor from the leaches, while others press round their yards on the same principle that the press leaches are run. In either case great care is taken to feed the leather both slowly and uniformly, so that the grain is kept soft and full without " drawing." The effect of this method is to give to the grain portion of the hide the same amount of tanning that would be given to a whole skin, t. e., it is tanned from both sides, leaving in the center iin imaginary line of partially tanned or only colored fiber. This imparts a toughness that distinguishes the leather from ordinary grain leather made from fully tanned hides. By reason of the thinness of the grain portion very weak liquors can be used, and yet the tanning is completed in thirty or forty days. It may seem anomalous, but it is nevertheless true, that tanning makes the fiber of hides comparatively tender, or less tough, and, beyond tanning sufficiently to pre serve the gelatine, the further filling of the fiber for upper leather should be avoided. The weak liquor process, then, which these grain leather manufacturers are enabled to pur sue, is well calculated to make a tough fiber.

Eighth. — Another advantageous result of splitting the hides intended for grain leather while green is that we get rid of the less elastic fiber of the flesh, including the nerve, and the {(rain will stretch until it comes to its proper bearings. This nautical expression conveys the idea perfectly. The fiber- must be distended before it goes into the shoe, and it is bettei to let it distend itself while green than to tan it and stretch i* afterward. This point may seem obscure and even doubt ful, but the writer is satisfied that there is much in it. To illustrate — Why is it that damp or wet leather is much tougher — will bear greater strain — than that which is dry? Simply because all the fiber pulls evenly when wet, but when dry there is not the same uniformity. For the same reason, a side of rough leather is less tough than the same side after being scoured and set out, and when grease is added still greater strength of fiber is secured. It is found that, in the manufacture of wire rope, greater strength is secured by lay ing the wires side by side in a bundle, rather than by twisting them up as in a rope. Now it may be assumed that the more equally and perfectly the fiber of the hide can be distended the greater will be the aggregate strength. Whatever may be the rationale of this subject, the fact stands conceded that grain leather manufactured in the way indicated is much touglier than when made in the old way.

The scouring, stuffing, blacking and embossing, is con ducted much in the same way as by the old method. Each of these processes are greatly facilitated, however, by having a uniform substance and tannage to treat. The bloom and extractive matter, for instance, can be washed out of these grain sides in the wheel so completely that they require little more than smoothing off before hanging theem up to partially dry before stuffing.

In all trades a better result is obtained when a proper division of labor is observed, and this is notably true in the manufacture of this description of leather. We have now several large manufactories devoted exclusively to the pro duction of grain and buff leather. They keep in mind the result they wish to produce from the beginning, and only buy such hides as will suit their purpose. This regard to true economy is not new in Great Britain or France, but is here, although the indications are not few that our tanners are waking up to a better conception of the true economies of their profession. With this changing condition of the trade, it may be possible that the morocco and calfskin tan ners of our country have greater occasion to fear competition from our home " pebble grain " manufacturers than from foreign importations of their own goods.