2 Questions About Hand Sewing

[AndersenLeather]

Hello

I'm just starting to sew leather and I have some questions:

Question 1:

When doing Saddle Stitching there are basically two techniques. The "al stohlman" and the one where a knot forms inside the stitch advocated by the user "jimsaddler". throw the back stitch

When using the "al stohlman" technique I get a nice uniform front and back where the stitches slope in the same direction.

When using the other technique the front is nice but the back slopes in the opposite direction. Se picture below

In the thread jimsaddler says that it will

..give you the same slope, front and back

I just can't get the same slope front and back.

I do it like this: tutorial

Can anybody tell me how to get the sampe slope front and back?

I'm using a diamond shaped awl. The thread is18/5 prewaxed linen (s twist). The needles is no.4

I'm sewing with 6 stitches per inch.

Question 2:

When I pull the thread through the hole it begins to unravel right next to the hole. It does this using both techniques

When I start to pull:

"Al stohlman" technique

"knot" technique

is this normal?

[Leather Guru]

You might try getting some braided thread which works well for hand sewing & will not unravel . I'm sure lots of people on this site know where you can get this kind of thread .

[jimsaddler]

Hi Jonabo

Basically you are using a left handed Z twist thread to sew right handed, so the thread is unravelling with both methods, Right Hand Sewing should be done with Right S twist thread. The comment about using the Braided Waxed Thread for hand sewing will overcome this. Also I think that you may be doubling the knot, as the back stitch should be pulled in as well the front. Which a single throw will allow to happen. Then the front stitch will have the same slope as the front ////// \\\\\\ remember the back is a mirror of the front as far as the Awl hole is positioned.from the top side.

I'm out of action at present waiting on a small Operation, after this I should be able to do more and will get a Video showing how it is done.

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler.

Hello

I'm just starting to sew leather and I have some questions:

Question 1:

When doing Saddle Stitching there are basically two techniques. The "al stohlman" and the one where a knot forms inside the stitch advocated by the user "jimsaddler". throw the back stitch

When using the "al stohlman" technique I get a nice uniform front and back where the stitches slope in the same direction.

When using the other technique the front is nice but the back slopes in the opposite direction. Se picture below

In the thread jimsaddler says that it will

I just can't get the same slope front and back.

I do it like this: tutorial

Can anybody tell me how to get the sampe slope front and back?

I'm using a diamond shaped awl. The thread is18/5 prewaxed linen (s twist). The needles is no.4

I'm sewing with 6 stitches per inch.

Question 2:

When I pull the thread through the hole it begins to unravel right next to the hole. It does this using both techniques

When I start to pull:

"Al stohlman" technique

"knot" technique

is this normal?

[AndersenLeather]

Hi Jonabo

Basically you are using a left handed Z twist thread to sew right handed, so the thread is unravelling with both methods, Right Hand Sewing should be done with Right S twist thread. The comment about using the Braided Waxed Thread for hand sewing will overcome this. Also I think that you may be doubling the knot, as the back stitch should be pulled in as well the front. Which a single throw will allow to happen. Then the front stitch will have the same slope as the front ////// \\\\\\ remember the back is a mirror of the front as far as the Awl hole is positioned.from the top side.

I'm out of action at present waiting on a small Operation, after this I should be able to do more and will get a Video showing how it is done.

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler.

Hey jim thanks for the reply

I was under the impression that i was in fact using Right S twist thread.

This is the diffrence in s and z twisted thread right:?

This is my thread:

According to this I would say that my thread is s twisted?

I could off course try to get a thread twisted in the opposite direction to see what happens. Unfortunately thread is for some reason hard to come by in my country so it could be a challenge. It is for example more or less impossible to get 18/5 unwaxed linen thread.

Regarding the stitches.

I have tried to cut open some of the stitches and there is only a single knot inside so I don't think I'm doubling the knot if thats what you mean by "doubling the knot"

Do you by any chance have any pictures of the back of your stitches you could upload?

If you could make a video that would be great and I'm sure that a lot of other people would find it very helpful to. I hope that you will be up and about before long.

I the meantime I made a video.

Am I throwing the back stitch in the correct manner?

http://youtu.be/yq3KF6U2qGw

Please disregard all of my ugly stitches. I was trying some different techniques

[AndersenLeather]

I think i figured it out.

When I put in the needle on my right hand side I usually put it on top of the thread that i already pulled through the hole. If I instead put it UNDER the thread already in the hole, and then throw the thread under and then over I get the stitches I want.

I made a video again:

http://youtu.be/jdVHnIcIcNY

Please give me credit for holding the camera under my chin! :D

It seems a bit more complicated putting the needle under the thread instead of on top of it.

Would you say I'm doing it the right way now?

[Suicide]

I think i figured it out.

When I put in the needle on my right hand side I usually put it on top of the thread that i already pulled through the hole. If I instead put it UNDER the thread already in the hole, and then throw the thread under and then over I get the stitches I want.

Please give me credit for holding the camera under my chin! :D

It seems a bit more complicated putting the needle under the thread instead of on top of it.

Would you say I'm doing it the right way now?

Just was about to give you such advise under and over, not overwise

As for putting needle under, try to do like that guy on the video, I found that method much much easier and no chances to stab the thread with a needle. and yes, he put right needle under and then loop the thread U&O

Cheers!

BTW watch he is doing with a thread on the right side as well

Edited February 19, 2012 by Suicide

[HellfireJack]

I was about to say the same thing. Your needle placement looks like it had been switched. You have to use the same exact pattern while stitching or your stitches look like that.

[jimsaddler]

You've got it figured right in the second video. You throw the thread up and over the needle (away from you). Practice makes perfect, you have to get comfortable with the Awl and Needles to the stage you are not able to stitch without them in your hands.

As far as the Thread twist the S twist is right to use, the throw in the first video was causing the unravel it appears.

The Video is a necessary project as I am now running Australian Saddle and Harness Making classes and am surprised at how many experienced Stitchers have problems keeping their Awl and Needles in Hand, as that is the Secret to Good Hand Sewing! At present I have large Kidney Stones in both Kidneys which make me very uncomfortable when I stitch. To-morrow one side will be blasted, so I should get some relief (after 2yrs of waiting ) to do the Video.

One of my Students commented thata Video would make life easier for him to be prompted.

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler.

I think i figured it out.

When I put in the needle on my right hand side I usually put it on top of the thread that i already pulled through the hole. If I instead put it UNDER the thread already in the hole, and then throw the thread under and then over I get the stitches I want.

I made a video again:

http://youtu.be/jdVHnIcIcNY

Please give me credit for holding the camera under my chin! :D

It seems a bit more complicated putting the needle under the thread instead of on top of it.

Would you say I'm doing it the right way now?

[jimsaddler]

Hi Suicide

Their are several comments to make about the Stitching methods in this stitching method. The size of the Awl needs to be very large to accomodate the both Needles. Good Handsewing is achieved by using the smallest Awl size possible to match the Needles and Thread. To end off your Stitching the last Stitch is thrown over twice and then a back stitch is done which is also locked with a double throw to lock it. You also start with the same method.

I hope this is of assistance.

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler.

Just was about to give you such advise under and over, not overwise

As for putting needle under, try to do like that guy on the video, I found that method much much easier and no chances to stab the thread with a needle. and yes, he put right needle under and then loop the thread U&O

Cheers!

BTW watch he is doing with a thread on the right side as well

[AndersenLeather]

Thank you for all your advice.

I must agree with jimr on the video you posted Suicide. I tried it and there is no way I can press two needles through the hole at once. But the way to control the thread seems to be right

Although I haven't sewn that much I already feel uncomfortable sewing without having the two needles and the awl in my hands. It feels that i'm not able to stab a hole with the awl without having the needles in my hands :D

Jim> Nice to hear how you start and end the sewing. I haven't seen this advice anywhere else. I will give it a try.

Just a quick totally unrelated question. Is there a machine that is able to sew with saddle stitches or do they all use lock stitches, loop stitches or some other inferior stitch?

[AndersenLeather]

You've got it figured right in the second video. You throw the thread up and over the needle (away from you). Practice makes perfect, you have to get comfortable with the Awl and Needles to the stage you are not able to stitch without them in your hands.

I was sure i did it right but then i tried to cut open some of the stitches and there was no knot inside.

I have made yet another video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLqEsdFzuls&feature=youtu.be

I have cut an opening so that i can pull the stitch out in order for you to see that there is in fact no knot inside.

I am able to make at stitch with a knot inside but then the slope on the back is in the opposite direction. I can for the life of me don't se how it is possible to obtain the same slope front and back with a knot inside.

Any comments?