Jump to content
MADMAX22

Leather inlays how to

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I was wondering how you all do the leather inlays. Like say some kind of exotic inlay on your vegtan. For instance if I was doing a seat and wanted a stingray inlay in the center what would be the best way to do this.

I was assuming that you would cut out the hole to match the area of the piece you want as the inlay then have another piece of leather behind this to help stiffen it up then glue/stitch them together.

Another question is when doing the inlay do you taper the leather down toward the inlay

Thanks all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Inlays are about 90% of my work. First you are correct, you will need two layers of leather.Depending on the look you wish to acheive and the intended use of the part will determine the thickness of the two layers. Both layers can be the same, or thick base and thin top, or thin base and thick top.Typically for a sheath say, I will use like 4-5oz for the base and 3-4 oz for the top, and the last shoulder holster I made, I used two layers of 7-8 oz. I also glue both layers back to back so the top grain is always showing.This makes for nice linings in sheaths and holsters.

Design your "window" , remembering to allow for the stitch line and any tooling. Cut out the window and save the cutout.I then finish the edge of the window at this point,dyeing and burnishing. Lay the top piece on the base and mark where the window is located. Determine if you will be padding your inlay. Inlay padding can be your cutout( trimmed down accordingly), foam, suede,etc.I normally use suede or foam.Padding looks good on most of the thinner skins, but really doesn't work well at all on skins like stingray as its just to hard. If you are using padding, go ahead and glue it to the base where marked.I like my skin to be about 3/8"-1/2" larger than the window, then cut and glue to the base.

Position and glue your top piece to the base and stitch around your window.This is typically done with a smaller thread and higher TPI count, but you can use the same thread if it's all you have.Then proceed with your normal construction of your project.Hope this helps.Dave

Edited by DCKNIVES

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very good description, that helps alot thank you

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for that Dave.

I'm pondering on making a sheath and having the center piece as a slice of snake skin.

Putting off difficult or new things is a speciality of mine.

I may now give it a shot

Al

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your welcome guys, if you have any problems , shoot me a PM.Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice Dave. Worked out great (IMHO) for my first try. I actually did use the portion of 4oz leather for the backing of the stingray that I cut from the outside layer. Dont know if it really helped or not but it brings it out a little bit. No way to get a nice rounded effect at the edges like some of the other inlays look, the stingray is just too hard.

Anyways great advice, helped immensly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...