Jump to content

Red Cent

Members
  • Content Count

    1,195
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Red Cent

  • Rank
    Leatherworker.net Regular
  • Birthday 10/01/1941

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
  • ICQ
    http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    McLeansville, NC by way of WV
  • Interests
    SASS (cowboy action shooting)29170L
    Cowboy/western leather
    Firearms
    and a little Dickel
    Life is too short to argue with stupid people and drink cheap booze.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Cowboy
  • Interested in learning about
    filing the gourd with knowledge

Recent Profile Visitors

7,176 profile views
  1. http://www.sailrite.com/Sewing-Machines/Portable-Heavy-Duty-Sewing-Machines/Ultrafeed-LSZ-1-Sewing-Machine and it will do the zig zag
  2. Unless you are lining the holster with 22 gauge metal, you should use the 8-9 plus a liner of, at least, 5-6. Once constructed, soak the holster, insert the gun and air dry or, better, use the sun. The holster becomes a deadly weapon. SASS shooters want super rigidity and just a tad of retention. They do not want any supple leather (no flop when they run) anywhere on the holster. The holster should be made with wide "belt ears" and screwed to the back flap. Here is something to give you some ideas. Keep in mind all of mine are speed rigs. Not for the faint of heart. Do not cover the trigger guard. Access to the grip and trigger guard is very important. And to those who faint at the sight of an exposed trigger guard, cowboys train to never hit the trigger before the revolver is pointed down range. An AD within 10' allows you to pick up brass and/or keep score for the reminder of the match.
  3. "do you freehand the decorative stitching or use a template?" Sort of a template. I use a quilters half circle "ruler". https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=la2XiLQ5&id=53EEAF736C7617816614FF30652D6A126E0808BF&thid=OIP.la2XiLQ5KtuOfOT_ftEYuwEsCk&q=quilters+half+circle+ruler&simid=607996237826490443&selectedIndex=2&qpvt=quilters+half+circle+ruler&ajaxhist=0 Easy to do. Draw imaginary parallel stitch lines. Measure a point 1/2 way between stitch lines. Make a light pencil line that runs from where you want to start to where you want to end down the middle of the lines. With a pencil, make an indentation at your starting point. Lay anyone of the half circle slots over this indentation and place your pencil tip in the indentation. Slide the ruler so that the top of that particular half circle is almost touching top stitch line. Hold ruler in place and make light half circle stopping at the middle pencil line. The size of the slot chosen will determine the length of the football shaped stitch. On the belt determine the total distance. Figure out how many will fit your space. You can finagle the use of the total space by interjecting a couple of short figures somewhere. "Are the holster pouch parts just formed or is there a little steel in there? Pouch and or shanks?" No steel requested yet. The holsters are two ply made up of a layer of 8-9 ounce and a layer of 6-7 ounce. Cased, lightly molded, and sundried makes for a super strong holster. I don't use steel unless forced to do so. If so, I use two layers of 11 gauge. If you tap the outside of the holster with a pencil it sounds hard as fiberglass. I mold lightly by hand. The speed rigs I make can't be molded too close for the smooth draw sake. The placement of three screws holding the holster to the back flap makes for a very sturdy and fixed position. "That looks like the "walk and draw" holster that Steve McQueen wore in the Magnificent Seven. Did you put a steel shank in it like the original? " McQueen used an Andy Anderson walk n draw holster. Something like this.
  4. Unless the wearer is fit and trim and does not cinch the belt tight, the thin stuff works. I also use 8-9 ounce for the outer and 3/4 or 5/6 for the liner. Besides I don't think my Cobra would sew 6 ounce leather
  5. Not necessarily. A 20 ton shop press can justify some procedures involved in some products. When I make a pancake holster that is 2-ply with an 8-9 and a 5-6, my one ton hand press struggles to push a punch through the layers. I used to cut the belt slots but was never really satisfied. Ever seen a catywampus belt slot that looked as if it was hand cut? I was gifted a one ton hand press that I used to punch round holes and use a knife to open the slots. It was OK but............... So I bought the 20 ton. Helloooo easy..................but slow. Are you aware that HF has the air over hydraulic on sale for $79.99? Gonna get one tomorrow. Maybe complete justification will come tomorrow or the next day. However, today I can punch out the neatest hole you have ever seen. And tomorrow I can do it faster:) And I will think the holster looks much better and I will feel better about selling the holster. Just so happens I reload for about everything I shoot. I always tell the wife I can always reload this round cheaper than I can buy it across the counter. So I have rows of dies in the reloading building. Now as to the savings..................................................................
  6. That beautiful $3000.00 blued Colt would be yours. Any and all the rust accumulated on the gun would be yours also.
  7. Jeff, put the Jack Daniels down and step back. We can work this out. Why, just yesterday I came up with a new............................
  8. You.....want me.....to show you..........mine?
  9. Remember to give the vinagrooned product a good bath in water and baking soda.
  10. The Cobra 4 has a built in bobbin winder. It works as you sew other stuff. Just to the right where it says "leather weather machine', there is a spindle on which you place the bobbin. Thread is pulled through the spring thingy to the right of the lamp. Works good. The C3 has an independent (kinda) winder but still works off the machine.
  11. always wet the fold and/or condition with Aussie or NF Oil.
×
×
  • Create New...