Types Of Metals Used For Tools

[r lenna]

I'm planning on making some of my own tools, petal lifters, and blade for my swivel knife. I want to know if you can use tool steel or what grade of stainless would I need.

Thank You. Rob

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

You are working with soft leather, even plastic, or wood would work for basic tools. Seen lots made from bolts, and nails. Use what you got. For the blade, cheaper to buy than make, unless you want something very custom. If so than a tool steel like O-1, W-1,1095, 52100, etc will work.

[whiteeugene]

I’m also interested in what metal works for leather cutting tools ( head/round knives) I make custom knives mostly with high carbon tool steel 1095 01 or d2. I had read somewhere that some steels can darken the leather. Any recommendations would be helpful. I have all the tools to grind mill and harden most tool steel so for me it would be economical to make my own.

Thanks Doug

[TwinOaks]

I've made stamps from SS bolts from the local hardware store and they work fine. Blades....work with what you know. High carbon stainless would work best, as they better resist the acidic nature of leather. Any of the high carbon steels you listed would be fine for edge holding/ cutting ability, but will be more susceptible to corrosion.

[whiteeugene]

Thanks TwinOaks

I new I read something about carbon steels and taned leather but was not sure what is was, I use some stainles steel in knife making but I like the petina you get from plain old high carbon steel and I think you get a better edge from it.

Thanks Doug

[Willem]

whiteeugene, I am pretty sure the high carbon tool steel you use would work just fine if maintained properly, For stainless I would look at N690 or 440c - both are high carbon stainless, easy to Heat Treat, sharpen easily and well and will hold a good edge. I am just now making some tools for myself and I use whatever suitable off cuts I have laying around from profiling knives. Made a diamond awl today from N690 and a groover (?) from some O1 and both work fine.

[whiteeugene]

Thanks Willem the resons I dont like stanless is the cryo process and the long soak times Im not sure how cost effective it is when you have to run your oven for 3 minits and then again for 2 hours to draw it out. If I was making it for a customer I could pass that cost along to them but for myself I think 01, 1095 or D2 will work just fine it’s easy to work with and inexpensive.

[Willem]

You are right, I prefer the high carbon tool steels too - they are much easier to work with, normally more forgiving and IMHO, take a better edge than even the so called "super steels" -, but that is why I mentioned N690 - you can cryo that effectively just by sticking it in the deep freeze for 18 or so hours, and you can draw it out in the house oven - I run two cycles of an hour each at 360F (about 180C) with good results. Or you can temper/draw it with a normal LP gas flame - the colors are not as vivid as on the tool steels but it goes through the same color sequence. Heat to where it just wants to go over to silver and water quench - I do two cycles and get good results with that too. But in the end I think any of the steels you mentioned, and especially D2 is the answer.

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

The issue is with the patina / rust on carbon steels. If the blade is kept polished, and clean it shouldn't be an issue. You could probably even wax it to keep from staining.

[Leela Valley Leather]

While I cant give you a specific grade for them, old leaf springs end up making pretty good knives. BUT I would suggest you get any knives you make from a leaf spring professionally heat treated once you have finished working the blank.

[Willem]

Old leaf springs are normally 5160 high carbon, newer ones EN24 or equivalent, and you are right - it is a good steel for knives. Main thing is to not over heat due to the relatively lowish carbon content (about .6) - but the heat treatment is very simple - heat in a fire or even with a gas torch until dull red going onto brighter red, test with a magnet - if the steel no longer holds the magnet, keep it at that temp for another minute or two, quench in old motor oil, stirring it around. Remove after about 5 or so seconds, and let it cool off in the air.

Sand off the oil, stick it in the oven at between 360 and 425 F and watch it from time to time, it will go a golden yellow, then brown, purple and then deep blue - at this point remove it from the oven and let it cool off or quench in clean water, sand to shiny and repeat. And that's it. Apart from putting it together and sharpening it, of course..

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Leaf springs would be hard to have professionally heat treated due to not knowing the exact steel specs. Some are 5160, some older ones were 1095, ya just don't know unless you get it tested $$$, or you can get the specs from the original manufacturer. Another issue is that some used springs will have micro cracks from years of use, not often ,but it happens. You can go the above heat treat route which will give good somewhat predictable results, but if you want guranteed results you need to get a known tool steel grade from a supplier. www.iforgeiron.com is my other hangout.