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I'm a newbie leather worker but not a newbie chap wearer. I bought some "chap leather" from Tandy awhile back that was 3/4 oz and it was so stinking thin that I was afraid it would tear just looking at it. I traded it in for 5/6 oz and that is much better.

My question is why do Tandy and some of the others refer to this lightweight stuff as chap leather? How many of you have made chaps/chinks out of it and how does it hold up? I have seen bareback and bullriding chaps made from this thin stuff but they tore very easily. Maybe the "chaps" they talk about are not really meant to be used for anything? Maybe I'm nuts but I really don't think so!

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I'm a newbie leather worker but not a newbie chap wearer. I bought some "chap leather" from Tandy awhile back that was 3/4 oz and it was so stinking thin that I was afraid it would tear just looking at it. I traded it in for 5/6 oz and that is much better.

My question is why do Tandy and some of the others refer to this lightweight stuff as chap leather? How many of you have made chaps/chinks out of it and how does it hold up? I have seen bareback and bullriding chaps made from this thin stuff but they tore very easily. Maybe the "chaps" they talk about are not really meant to be used for anything? Maybe I'm nuts but I really don't think so!

That's usually what you can expect from Tandy. Give Panhandle Leather a call. They have a website but if you want chap leather it is best to call because they will ask you questions about the intended use then make recommendations on what to buy. I just built a guy who is about 6'4 a pair of Arizona Bells and I've got enough scrap to build my boy a set of leggins and my wife a big tote type purse. The side was 31 ft and really nice leather. It cost about $125.

here is a link with the phone number http://www.panhandleleather.com/

Good Luck to you,

CW

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I agree about panhandle leather they do have good stuff among some others. 5/6 is what I generally use also for chinks and shotguns, I have been using oil tan hides that helps to resist weather.

But to try and answer your question I think with most leather places when you say chap leather, the only thing they think is light weight show chaps, or motorcycle.

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I am sorry to say this but here it goes Panhandle Leather screwed me on four different side of chap leather even after I called and told them what I needed it might be nothing to some but I am a small buyer and when I need good hides that is what i expect not to try and slide in two that you can only cut trim out of if your lucky.

Mark

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I have been lucky there with chap, however I did have isssue with some metallics having big holes in them. I also use Hide house alot for chap leathers, reasonable but not always the cheapest. However you cannot beat the consistent quality and colors they carry

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yes I have just got some from them and like what I have seen so far. I had a saddle maker tell me if you use what is cheap it will come back to bite you at some time. so I try and use the middle of the road prices but I bet some one will say that will bite you too. I know that I try to use the best I can find for the money I have to spend at the time.

Mark

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Well, here goes from me! In the beginning, you will kick your self on what leather you have bought. You can find a leather thickness guide at tandy leather. I buy most of my chap/chink leather from tandy. There service is Great! There product gets to your front door pretty fast. Your thinner chap/chink sides are for show. You don't need the protection from trees, barbed wire, thorns, etc. A 4/5 oz. leather is a good weight for working chap/chinks. The 5/6 is getting pretty heavy and hot for summer time use. Climate and what you are going to use them for plays a part. But, the thicker the leather the more it cost. So, if your just starting out go with 4/5 oz. and you will do fine. For your top plate and leg plate and back leg plate, that becomes a little tricky on ordering leather. I use a 7-8 oz. on those parts and sometimes a 8-9 oz. leather on it. Just depends on how i feel. I don't want the chinks to be too stiff for movement and uncomfortable in the saddle. You didn't say what pattern you are using! The tandy pattern is good, but it's a little confusing on the length when you cut it out. Bob Klenda Saddles sales patterns and they are nice patterns. I know bob and they work good. You also go to "cow camp saddlery" and get his dvd and chink pattern. Seeing your just starting out, it will help you a lot on your measurements. Worth the investment. Oh, i have modified most patterns that i have bought. It's just what works or doesn't work for you. Bottom line, there are a lot of places to buy chap/chink leather. You can experiment with buying from others once you get your craft down. Good Luck To You!!!

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guys

what is CHAP leather?

could you please clarify what is the difference between chap and the rest (veg, bridle, chrome)

is it for tooling? can anyone share product photos made of chap leather?

i'm confused

Edited by nrk

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On 3/15/2016 at 9:47 AM, nrk said:

guys

what is CHAP leather?

could you please clarify what is the difference between chap and the rest (veg, bridle, chrome)

is it for tooling? can anyone share product photos made of chap leather?

i'm confused

The chap leather I got from Weaver was chrome tanned and had a corrected grain 4-5oz. I'm not sure if that answers all of your questions. I'm not really educated on this leather myself. 

 

Oops, this is an old post.

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