Jump to content
AndyN

Before I Start My Third Attempt At Holster Making...

Recommended Posts

This is my first attempt at leatherworking since Cub Scouts nearly 40 years ago. I'm looking at my first two attempts more as mistakes from which I can learn than as actual holsters - I knew early on they weren't going to come out well, but worked through the entire process to see where all I was going to have problems. There are some obvious problems that I can identify myself and think I know how to not repeat, but I'm hoping the more experienced hands can tell me what less obvious mistakes I'm not noticing.

Things I know I screwed up:

- Don't try to cut belt slots freehand. I'm going to pick up a punch for the ends and have a 1.25" wood chisel for the straight lines.

- I didn't make the template for the Ruger wide enough, which didn't leave me enough room for belt slots, which exacerbated problem #1.

- I should have sanded the edges before I used the edge groover, which I think would have helped me keep a smoother line with the groover.

- I need to get my stitch line tighter to the gun.

- I need to sand the edges more thoroughly. I didn't put a lot of effort into burnishing because once I started I noticed that I had high and low spots along the edges and wasn't going to get a nice smooth finish regardless.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

sr40holster.jpg sr40inholster.jpg 1911inholster.jpg 1911holster.jpg

post-49020-0-31367100-1391183599_thumb.j

post-49020-0-36342000-1391183600_thumb.j

post-49020-0-12046500-1391183601_thumb.j

post-49020-0-02704200-1391183602_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you have a drill press, get a drum sander for it. Helps square the edges. And it's hard to tell if you got the leather too wet, or it's cheaper leather. After I mold my holsters I put them in the clothes dryer on a shoe rack for 30 minutes to dry and set the leather. If you get it too wet, then mold it too wet; it will sometimes release and not take any details.

The rest of your ideas are on the money as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

AndyN, go to Harbor Freight and buy a $10.00 set of "Forstner" bits. Drill two holes for belt loops, then cut between them. Remember to never cut INTO a corner. When you drill the holes, put a piece of wood under the leather. Because of the way the bits are shaped, it will leave a neat hole on both ends.

What Chief said. Then sand the edges a little. To burnish, get a dauber to dampen edges.. Too much water can do what Chief said.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just add another stitch line if you are not close enough on the first go. To make it look balanced add an extra stitch line to the outside of the other stitch line. Hope this makes sense. I think you are on the right track. Nice going.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use a couple of drum sanders, one with a coarse drum and one with a fine one and just switch them. Saves time and the things are cheap. This last year I turned a steel burnisher on my lathe. It has different width grooves to match what I'm working on. I have no idea why I didn't make one of these years ago. It's not a have to have but it does save time and labor and does a really good job.

I like the DeWalt bits to drill holes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...